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After you get things mounted, vac lines are important. I did a bunch of google hunting when I re-routed everything during the shutdown and wound up going by the Tial manual for how to do it, and customized it for my setup. Just ask questions about whatever step you're at and we'll try to help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
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Got all the turbo plumbing done today hot and cold also mounted the intercooler. I'm going to have to drop the dam oil pan to get out the oil level sensor out. feels like it's being held back should of knocked that out when the motor was out but you live and you learn I guess. other than that the turbo and is pretty much all done. Need to get the fuel pump canister out the SSIE so I can swap it with the one in the lesabre. I ordered the pump from zzp with the venturi pump option says all I need to make it work is the L67 canister I'ma find out tomorrow. After the oil pan and fuel pump all that's left is plugging up the harness and vacuum lines almost there guys
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Forgot to add had to remove the windshield fluid reservoir to make the charge pipes fit and line up properly with the throttle body. ZZP said all my intercooler piping was guna be a inch or 2 off every were but it lined up fairly easy. Only real difference between the lesabre and my regal is the L67 sits a few inches further back in the lesabre (H-body).the H-body seem to be on the front axle not over it like in the regal (W-body).Also why is the zzp Instructions telling me to tap and plug a hole in the throttle body?
 

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You need to block a few things to not have boost going to the wrong places now that it's made before the M90, not after... Mainly PCV passages. Fill the top of the PCV valve (vents into M90 case) with RTV and plug the path to the TB (fresh air draw before blade), so you're not boosting the crankcase. I'd also find an angled oil cap elbow to get the breather vertical (swap front and rear valve covers for appearance fun).

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Also, I would remove the lift brackets, EGR (delete), and the boost bypass (remove blade from inside and secure position tab down).

Looking good, keep at it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
I didn't block the EGR they sent the block plates for it but in the instructions it said Z3 kits don't need to remove the EGR. Had to file down the the EGR tube and the piece in the rear manifold were they meet to get it in there nice and flush did I **** my self there? And can you show me in a picture what holes I need to RTV also the boost bypass and the lift brackets what's that.
 

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EGR puts hot crud in your intake, and is useless for the original purpose, as well. That's why they help you delete it, with the safety suggestion that you don't "have" to.

PCV path is as shown:
Red - vent thru PCV valve
(pull valve and fill top w/ RTV)
Green - fresh air drawn between TB blade and MAF
(plug by filling with RTV or drill/tap/plug... Light green circles in previous pic above)
Blue - tube for Green path on Series 3's
Yellow - pressure/fumes in oiling system below pistons
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Lift brackets are just those black painted brackets bolted to the exhaust manifolds that aren't needed except when lifting the engine out. They tend to get in the way when doing other things, and just look dumb.

Boost bypass is the black plastic cylinder on the front of the M90 that runs to the vacuum tree, and has the little 2-wire connector to the little solenoid bolted to it. While it really won't affect anything now that you're going turbo instead of s/c, it's extra things in the way. Maybe just leave it for now, but make a plan for later, maybe going to an L26 or F-body intake.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Ok so I have the l26 intake and lower manifold from the lesabre if I throw that on there I don't have to do all that. And from the diagram you posted (thank you) I only have to worry about the red and green paths. my bad hate to sound like a dumass
 

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You still need to address the PCV passages similarly on an L36/L26, because it's on all 3800's (you had an L36 Series 2 if it's the plastic one, so I don't suggest going that route if you don't have to.

Later on, maybe shop for an L26 upper/lower intake at the yard, and prep it more (block TB coolant passages, port side coolant path, maybe gasket-match ports, etc.)

Same path descriptions as M90 version above.
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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Thank you Dave between the diagram and your explanation I think I got it tap and plug the hole in the throttle body and RTV the PVC tube in the supercharger casing. Only part I'm confused on is that bigger hole in the throttle body by the blade just stuff it with RTV or if I tap and plug the smaller hole I don't have to mess with the bigger hole by the blade?
 

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For the PCV valve, just sacrifice the valve and pack RTV in the top of it, and place it back in there.

For the TB, that path goes from that rear hole forward, then turns up to access the main bore just ahead of the blade. Just find the best way you want to plug that path with the simplest, cleanest method you have access to do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
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Yo Dave I got a question my O2 sensor bung on the down pipe is right under the fire wall a 02 sensor won't fit in the space (it will be to long) any other option besides having a bung welded in a few inches before the one that's already there
 

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PCV looks great, just be sure to reinstall with spring like stock, so that o-ring has pressure to stay sealed underneath.

They have 90deg fittings for that, although not the best for your primary sensor (usually used to get rear sensors to read less when using a hi-flow or no cat).

Maybe consider trying it in the original spot, if it fits, or else you may need to get that fabrication done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Hell ya Dave coming in with the save like always thank you man. I'm done installing the turbo kit. pipes and oil to the turbo its fully installed.I found some 90 degree adapters on Amazon auto parts stores don't have em asked around they said because of emissions IDK what they can't sell em. I think you solved my issue thou. I'm on the fuel pump now and on the 97 H-Body the basters at GM thought it would be a great idea not to put a fuel pump door/access have to drop the tank and the pump has metal lines running in and out of it I cut out the pump now I'm wondering how to splice this canister into lesabre
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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Emailed ZZP and to my surprise there going to exchange that venturi pump for the non venturi so I don't have to swap canisters made my day.Already measured on the Bonneville so I know exactly we're to cut the door on the lesabre that way I can just pull the canister out of the tank and knock it out while it's all connected in the back seats that way I avoid undoing all the metal lines that are impossible to get to unless you drop the tank all the interior is out of it it bare metal back there I thought the fuel pump would be easier like in the regal just a big headache
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Horrible day got the engine 100% vacuum lines turbo stuff, sensors etc turned it on with no radiator it was running super nice sounds so mean and beefy was jumping up and down with joy. My radiator comes in so I mount it all up add coolant and turn the car on agian instantly miss fires and blows out clouds of white smoke from the turbo. Thinking I messed up on the head gaskets don't know yet beyond sad and upset right now I was so close.
 

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i have a 3800 series 2 S/C out of a Pontiac Bonneville SSEI .going into my little brothers 97 lesabre. swap seems straight forward both 97 and H-body. i have the Z3 turbo kit, reconditioned heads 90# springs ,350 fuel pump ,60# injectors 1.9 rocker arms, shift kit and front powerlog,the kit requires i keep the rear manifold for the wastegate set up but the stock manifold is tiny and im assuming sucks. ZZP doesnt make a rear power log or any rear exaust pieces for the
H-body what should i do? leaving the block stock im thinking mid 400's to the wheels should be a reachable goal. has anybody done anything close to this? Im i missing something i dont see? Any feedback would be good all keep you guys updated on the build thank you
I ported my factory manifolds with great results. Used Air die grinder with steel burr bit, took about 30 minutes each header, wasn't difficult
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Dave need your help man. Is there a coolant passage in the throttle body or intake manifold I needed to plug? Why would the turbo be getting coolant through it? Is the vacuum of the turbo sucking in coolant from some port or passage I didn't cover/plug? Please hit me up big dog.
 

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There's the TB ports that go thru the LIM/UIM next to the EGR port that tend to leak past their o-rings. I always try to plug them by tapping for 1/4" NPT pipe plugs that have allen sockets (brass in pic below).

Being close to the EGR tube causes the gasket and UIM to warp, enabling leaks in this area. An L26 aluminum UIM helps, but all items in that zone should be deleted for best results.

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(Supercharged example I found quick, but same ports.)

You should also open up the side cap to improve the coolant passage between front and back heads, especially when plugging the TB passages.

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(This guy went a little overboard, but you get the idea.)
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Thank you David thought something happened to you good to hear from you. I'm going to pull the turbo off and turn it on see if it still burns coolant if it doesn't I know it's the turbo pulling in the coolant. you have my email right? Any way I could get you to email me your phone number so I can call get this figured out
 
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