you're correct about the wiring, except that the injectors on the 04 use a Multec 2 connector and the injectors on the l67 use a standard bosch connector, so either you'll have to swap harnesses or find some multec 2 injectors capable of supporting the flow required, zzp has 34# multec 2 injectors which i use now, or find an adapter of some sort...

 

Doublechecked and yes the injector plugs will need to be changed.
Either that or new/different injectors.
I've got a few sets that I know will run the L67 fine or be a good upgrade,just have to see if I have any of that type plug.
I think most of mine are Bosch EV6 plugs.
It's a tiny pin in the connector,not similar to the EV-series plugs at all-so pin swapping a connector is a no-go.
If I change the plug,I will just cut and solder a new one in.
For connectors,pins etc.. EFIconnection.com is the place to go.



So far I've got the front fascia,wheels,hood and almost everything else disconnected/off.

All that's left to pull the engine is unbolt the exhaust real quick,3-4 bellhousing bolts,power steering lines and 1 last dogbone.

Still need to order some misc parts,wanted to make sure I didn't run across any issues that needed addressing.


Just a quick question,since couldn't find it searching and I want to clarify.
Will the L67 exhaust bolt right up to my L36/impala pipe?
Just offhand I think it will,I have custom exhaust/hiflow cat and all that jazz but it's factory location in front.
When it's all in i'm going to have my buddies muffler shop cut the front cat all the way to the resonator maybe,and put up 3in if I can find/make the proper adapters.
But need to know if I should start doing something about it now cause they won't line up. Just in case something needs ordered.

I'll post up some pics if anyone wants to see what i've been up too so far.

 

Ok,couple things i've ran into.

AC brackets are different.
Not a huge deal,I'm keeping the 04 AC intact (mainly cause I didn't even open the system and it's much newer). So just removing the existing brackets and use the bolt's from the L36 and all will be good.

Took the coilpack/bracket off.
Plan to use the L36 ICM with the lower mileage/higher voltage L67's.
While sandblasting the bracket I really noticed how freakin' heavy it is.
Is there an aluminum alternative? Thinking about grinding a couple lbs of it or relocating the coilpacks and cutting the bracket in half.

I think I want to use the L36 exhaust manifolds,they look better and heat shields look more effective. Is there any reason to go with one over the other?

 

Some pics of the process

Here's what i'm working with.
My wife's 2004 Impala LS.
We bought it used with 15k on it,and babied it ever since pretty much.
It's got a custom exhaust,magnaflow mufflers/Borla tips.
The taillights have been altered to look like the SS.
We thought about buying wheels for it,but both really like the stockers.
It did have an AVIC-N2 I put in for xmas present when we first got it,but she hated it so we took it out a year later.
Right now it only has some backseat dvd and Kenwoods in the deck.
PCM is tuned and airbox gutted with a K&N.
We love the car,but lately I've been trying to get her into a CTS or Lincoln LS.
She loves it,and doesn't wanna get rid of it so...

 

Here's some in-process pics sorta,actually took all these when finished pulling.
Started this afternoon,had it out couple hours later.
Usually I like to have a helper,but wife and BiL had to go do the work I wasn't.
I work great alone though,I turn my Ipod on the Dave Ramsey Show,NPR Car Talk or Wait,Wait don't tell me and just space out and work.
No lift in my shop yet,so was more hassle than I like but meh.

Wife's L36 chocolate milkshake.
Caught it right when it happened almost,I generally change oil every 1500-2k miles and filter every 4-5k.
I was flushing the radiator when I noticed the minute amount of bubbles coming up through the rad cap.
Did a block test and took a second but came up positive.
Picture looks black but has light chocolate look to it.
Oil is ALWAYS honey colored pretty much when I drain it.

 

I know it sounds simple as hell, but while you've got that engine out, replace the heater bypass elbows...

 

Already plan to replace the bypass elbow,and swapping over new waterpump,starter and alt from the L36.
If it's the same (looks the same) also the L36 brand new TB/MAF.
Also new belts (hose's already new),new thermostat,oil pan and valve cover gaskets.
Engine only had 58k,but alot easier to do that stuff now then later.
Supercharger idler also had cracked ridge on the backside,so that will be replaced-tensioner/idler bearings all good.

I have sitting in boxes on my parts shelves a brand new LS6 TB and MAF for another project.
I'll be looking into making an adapter to bolt those up later maybe.
Be good use for them till other project is closer to being finished.

 

Sounds like you've got a plan and a half sir!

 

04 = drive by wire TB and L67 = cable TB you'll have issues adapting the Gen III SC to the 04+ TB.

 

Sorry to correct,but no sir it's cable throttle.

I descreened the MAF a few years ago,for those that don't know the screen is there to create a more laminar airflow across the sensor.
Without it,you can damage your trans over time due to shift pressures being off-the MAF is the main load calculating device for the trans.

Anyway,at about 50-60k miles (couple years ago) I changed out the TB/sensors under warranty at the dealership I work at.
So i'm positive it's cable,I even still have to stocker that is descreened.

 

The L67 was used until 05 in the montes and impalas.

also did you say you were going to use an l36 throttle body on that l67?
the l36 tb is smaller and wont flow as well and the maf table will be off with an l67 tune, its completely possible, but you will have to use an l36 maf table.

also, you keep that pistol on the work bench... you might need that by the end of the swap lol

 

I can program the different maf in no problem,and have any tables needed.

I didn't think they were different sizes though,so will definatly take my caliper to both and see what's what.

If nothing else i'll move my sensor's over to L67,externally they look exactly the same just glancing at the two.

Yeah,I always carry a pistol on me. That was laying on the table for a reason though.
I expected the new neighbor (renters) to come by when he saw me in the shop,cause they always do and want me to look at something or just generally bother me.
My Brother in law knows this particular fella,and he's a crackhead thief.
So I wanted it laying out for when he came by...
I also walk outside often in my shoulder holster with no coat,and running exercises with my search/rescue german shephard and 150lb mastiff.

I consider it a deterrent,we have a nice large property in town-but for some reason the only rental house in that whole corner of town is right next door to my house.
It's an old house that needs work done to update it (cept outside looks ok) so it rents fairly cheap.
People don't tend to last very long though.
Last people stayed 3mos,my buddy I work with arrested the whole family the first night-and I almost killed their dog the next day,instead gave them away.

It can be exciting.

 

ah, I completely missed the handgun in the pic, is that a crimson trace on er'?

 

remember that the montes and impalas were a step behind the grand prixs so i believe that that is a l36 still

 

wow i only read the first page that post makes no sense now my bad

 

I concur.

*edit...I understand what your referring too now-and yes i'm sure it is an L36.
I don't pretend to know all the generation changes,but impala changed bodies in '06 I think it was.
Pretty sure they started getting the new HV engines/3500 and the LS4 then didn't they?
Technically that would put them ahead of the GP's since they continued to run the "old" platforms for several years (or still?) and of course the LS4
Didn't look any of this up,but think it's correct.



No,no Crimson trace.
It's a 9/11 "United We Stand" limited edition Beretta 96FS with factory Hogue's

 

ah ok...

 

FYI for those doing a similar swap.

The MAF,IACV and TPS is the same between the L67 and L36. They can be swapped between the two no problem.
However,as mentioned above-The TB's themselves are different size diameters.
This means that if you use an L36 TB,you will need an L36 MAF table in the pcm regardless of being an L67 engine.
The MAF calibration is specific to the diameter of the passageway it's installed into-which is larger on the L67 and smaller on the L36.

I've ran into this issue with Fords pretty often.
People come in with lean codes,and a custom intake. The factory MAF calibration is specific to the intake pipe diameter,with larger diameter pipe the MAF will read lean causing P0171/P0174 codes (or on a GM,generally a Maf High/Low circuit error)


I'm cleaning the L67 TB now,will use the new sensors from the L36.
I'll be using a file for an 04 SS when programming,so will be no issues.

Currently i'm just sandblasting/cleaning/painting various brackets,injectors are about to go into the ultrasonic cleaner.
Lower intake/SC plenum gaskets be here in a couple hours.

I'm not porting the supercharger,mainly because it seems to not be a great idea for something that is clearanced for compression.
I am going to smooth the inlet/outlet's though,along with coolant and EGR blockoff's.

Going to my buddies house in a little bit,he builds NHRA motors and we're building a mclaren TGP engine for my 88 fiero GT.
His wife had a bonnie SSEI,and he still has SC laying around so i'm gonna see what he suggests doing and if he has a smaller pulley for the heck of it.
Don't think he ever modded hers,but he's been into more of the L67's than I have.
All my experience is with L36's.

That's where i'm at update-wise.
I'll post some pics of progress tomorrow maybe when everything is a bit more together.

 

Unfortunately,didn't get to work on the impala at all yesterday.
Had to pick up my uncle at the airport,coming back from thailand.
I've been remodeling our lakehouse while he's gone (he lives there) and had to finish a bunch of crap up I put off and then all day getting him etc..

Back at it today.
Got most parts sandblasted or pressurewashed.
Things like pulley's and brackets are all painted where needed.
Took forever to scrape the gaskets,especially the supercharger gasket.
Didn't want to use my gastket attachment for my grinder so razor'ed it.

So pretty much ready to install everything.
Freezing balls outside though,so only working for couple hours before I come inside.
Shop doesn't have heat,grrr.

Dropped rear header off at buddies shop,he's going to close up the EGR pipe for me.

Just offhand,if anyone is following my progress I wouldn't mind an opinion.
No time to wait for parts,but here's what i'm doing that is just random I do on most personal projects I take apart.

1.Ported the ridges out of the L67 TB and polishing.

2.Blasted and smoothed the inside of the cast iron manifold.

3.Blasted and smoothing texture on lower manifold,smoothed passages but didn't

4.take any metal out. No time for gasket matching.

5.Got plugs for the coolant bypass on the LIM,and opening the passage on the side behind the cover to correct any restriction/cavitation/help flow.

6.EGR deleted -From manifold,so hot gas never get's to manifold.

7.180* thermostat

8.Smoothing casting at SC outlet,No metal coming out-only smoothing ridges etc..


Basically these are free mods that I can do while i'm in there,any tips on what else to do that I'm overlooking?
I've forgot some stuff i'm sure,i'll add as I remember.
I'm rural,and everything needs special ordered I can't wait for. Smaller pulley will be done with engine in the car later if at all. (my buddy has a series 1 pulley,couldn't use it).

Should be together tonight and ready to go in tomorrow if I can stand the cold.
(and quit smoothing/cleaning/blasting everything lol).

 

Just offhand,if anyone is following my progress I wouldn't mind an opinion.


You seem to be doing an exceedingly quick and thorough job sir!

 

Well,haven't updated because haven't had time to get much done.
Been going out for a couple hours a day,but it's at like 2-3am and freezing.
Got stuck a few times and had to walk away also.

I hate working in my shop at home,not that it isn't well equipped but it always seems like the tool I need is in my toolbox at the Ford dealer.
All my nice tools,and most special tools are in the big box.
Normally not a problem unless it's 2-3am,I don't like to wake up foreman till 4am earliest.

Anyway,as it stands now.

Everything is wired up except the boost bypass valve and moving the map sensor.
Wired in the new injector plugs this afternoon,was a snap and only took about 20 minutes.
Have to put the plug wires on and also cut and splice in the L67 fuel disconnects.
Still need to program the pcm also.

I would be finished and probrably test driving right now but had pc issues.
After injectors I came in for lunch and thought I would start taking a look at the factory program.
My Laptop would not come on! Had full power and lights coming on but nothing onscreen.
Knowing I planned to be driving by this evening I immediately started trying to get my software up on anything else

Unfortunately my tuning software is serial based,I had not got the new USB upgrade and serial convertors play hell on it.
Luckily I did already have the foresight to buy a Dell tablet/notebook to try out before ordering the new USB upgrade box.
So I had a computer,but that windows7 crap doesn't play well with the software.
So I had read/write ability but couldn't change anything on the tune itself.
Of course that's assuming I can get one of the 2 USB serial convertors to work long enough to try!
(Of course the new USB box was ordered immediately)

In a desperate try for a miracle I plugged the laptop into our living room tv and turned it on hoping maybe just the display was out.

Of course,it started right up-no issues and all was well.

So i've wasted hours today on the car and got nothing done. And I was up most all night last night anyway so i'm tired as hell.
Not sure if i'll go out there tonight,but regardless it looks like another hour of work will have it on the road.

 

Sorry,meant to post a couple pics.
I think this was yesterday morning I finally got it stabbed and bolted down.
Wasn't terrible,but with one person it's alot of back and forth.
And damn it was cold.

 

Good work man, keep it up. Im attempting this swap as well next month.

 

I simply do not work well in my shop most times it seems,I am just too disorganized. (when you have memory problems that is a big issue)
I've of course overlooked something that was relatively simple,and it's setting me back.
I knew I had to wire in the boost bypass solenoid,and meant to do it yesterday after the injectors (then of course caused myself unneeded pcm drama).

Let me start this by saying a person experienced with auto electrical could easily do the changes actually needed well with 30m of time probrably.

This morning I rewrapped the harness from the injector plug swap before I realize I completely forgot to run the plug for the BBV.
Normally not a problem,however i'm a driveability and electrical specialist at a dealership who can be severly manic.
I'm extremely meticulous when it comes to wiring usually. I'm of the opinion as a consumer that a new vehicle repaired at the factory shop should be perfect when it comes out-and this carries into most all my work.

So I've got a couple hours taking apart both the L36 harness and L67 harness by now.
I pulled the entire circuit from the L67 harness,and then dissassembled my L36 harness again.
I ran the entire circuit exactly according the a 2004 Impala SS and NOT the 1999 Regal GS that the engine actually came from.

The Regal power circuit originally ran all the way to the fuse block,the Impala however splices into an existing circuit.
Of course I didn't compare the two diagrams before I pulled the L67 harness apart and was dissassembling the fuse box,so I wasted quite a bit of time.
Also,this makes it true to the factory diagrams and splice connections for the SS that we are making a sorta clone of.
I can provide more detail and pin numbers etc.. if needed for those apps and maybe others if needed.

Anyway,I'm so close to finishing and only I am holding myself back right now.
It's become less of an issue than we realized,we've actually got several vehicles.
This is the comfort vehicle used to transport our disabled daughter,who is in bed on IV and leaves house only for doctors.
We actually won't need it for another week so i've been taking it too slow.
I actually should have finished last night but fell asleep.

 

Oh,meant to say thanks also for all the great advice i've found on here.
I thought it was a fairly straightforward affair,and while it is you guy's and your threads and questions on here have helped me immensely.
I appreciate you guy's putting up with my long posts,and the community for your wealth of knowledge that has helped.
I hope I can give back a bit to show appreciation.

 

Okay,the car is running.

Finished everything up last night except putting the front bumper back on,and need a new gasket for the downpipe.

Had to swap the starter out though.
Put a new one on about 500 miles ago,and the solenoid s terminal is just spinning now.
Luckily I keep a couple spares for my fiero's so I just put a good used one in.

But I let it idle to temp and everything is running great,no codes and drops straight into closed loop.
I did notice the long term trims at first adding about 10% of fuel with clean short term trims.
That could be some fresh air from the downpipe getting across the 02 sensor maybe,I'll do some more checking when I get some drive time on it.

So yay,it's running-hopefully have time before work to get the bumper back on so I can test drive it.

 

Well,been test driving it this morning and all seems well for the most part.
The actual install is great,no issues there.

Had just a couple misfire counts here and there on a couple cylinders,chased it down and found one of the L67 coils petering out.
Simply replaced it with one of her newer L36 coils and it sorted that.

Got a cheapie sunpro boost guage installed,wanted to be able to monitor manually along with the scanner.

When I parked it to do the flush on the coolant,and found the head gasket issue I was also planning to change her power steering pump that locked up.
Of course I simply installed the new pump on the motor before I put it in.

This morning after the first test drive pump started whining horribly again,parked it halfway in the shop cause it was sprinkling to check it.
Started it up and before too long had a puddle of fluid on the ground.
Yanked the wheel off and found a pinhole squirting on the return leg of the "cooler" line.
Checked furthur and found another spot where a wiring harness clip had rubbed another hole in the line.

Having no way to go get a new part,and not having something compatible on the cars in my personal salvage yard I had to improvise.
I cut both lines off with a dremel right under the balancer and pulled the whole "cooler" section of line from the subframe.
I cut the last 12" section where it loops to bypass the places the line was worn through or near (quite a few).
Then I just used a couple pieces of rubber hose to splice the loop back in.

Unfortunately I'm afraid the new pump is already ruined. When an aerated or no fluid condition happens it can take less than a minute to ruin one of those pumps.

I'm going to get into my toolbox at work and I have an adapter to pull a vacuum on power steering systems to pull all the air when replacing part of the system.
I'll make a judgement on the pump after I try that for a fix.

I haven't went full throttle with it yet.
I still have to work out the air intake,it's hard to find the right size pipe around here. I've got plenty of peices up to 3",and even some 4".
For the filter and TB peice i'm going to use though I need 3.5/3.75".
So right now it's got the factory box sorta in there.

Also I need to get the tune worked out on the trans gearing. I'm a little confused but got some good guy's on here helping me out with it.
I'm unfamiliar with the V6 programming stuffs.
Also want to change the filter and flush the trans.
I don't trust the TCC on the L67. Honestly shoulda just bought one,but I didn't.
With 135k on the trans (and I didn't do first flush till 120k) i'm thinking i'll rebuild it in the next few months since the L67 is in front of it now.

I did post up a quick walkaround video in the Gallery forum,if anybody is interested.
I will probrably do a walkaround pointing out a few things I noticed or would do different or make it easier when I get the car completely finished and washed/cleaned.