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Discussion Starter #1
Hey i was thinking about doing Yella Terra Roller Rocker & Pushrod Package . IN my 01 gtp.. I wanted to no what the benift are other than telling people i have roller rockers.. any less kr.. smaller pulley can run?
 

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given i have water injection but with the headers and the rockers i'm down to a 3.0 so far and i'm tuning appropriately. I bet you can run a 3.4 with a lot of timing. Everyone says to go cam instead of rockers but i dont' want to do all that work for 20ish more hp then the rockers give. I love my rockers because my car still idles normal and nobody expects it to be as fast as it is thats numero uno in my book. If you have the time and the patience to do a cam then you would probably be more happy doing that instead. Just make sure you get springs and retainers with the rockers if you end up doing that instead because you don't want to chance floating a valve over an extra hour of work.
 

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Which versions of the YT rockers? If stock ratio, then you'll just have a bit less frictional losses. 1.9's will give you the best bang for the buck. I had 1.9's (HS) on my car for a while and noticed a big top end increase. You 'might' be able to run a slightly smaller pulley, IF you have the inlet and exhaust supporting mods. I think you'll see less KR if you stick with the same size pulley.
 

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Which versions of the YT rockers? If stock ratio, then you'll just have a bit less frictional losses. 1.9's will give you the best bang for the buck. I had 1.9's (HS) on my car for a while and noticed a big top end increase. You 'might' be able to run a slightly smaller pulley, IF you have the inlet and exhaust supporting mods. I think you'll see less KR if you stick with the same size pulley.
He has enough supporting mods to run a 3.4 with no kr if he gets the 1.9's.
 

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I have splits. 1.9 on the intake and 1.95 on the exhauust side. They give some more top end power and a nice by product is the sound of the exhaust note smartens up big time. They do bleed some boost though (doesn't lose power, just reads less on the guage). Some people are running 1.84 on the intake to curb the boost loss somewhat but I've not had any issues with mine in the 2 years they've been on my car.
 

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I have splits. 1.9 on the intake and 1.95 on the exhauust side. They give some more top end power and a nice by product is the sound of the exhaust note smartens up big time. They do bleed some boost though (doesn't lose power, just reads less on the guage). Some people are running 1.84 on the intake to curb the boost loss somewhat but I've not had any issues with mine in the 2 years they've been on my car.

That's a different setup. From what I've seen the exhaust valves are typically smaller than the intakes.
 

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That's a different setup. From what I've seen the exhaust valves are typically smaller than the intakes.
if you are talking about the exhaust valve itself then yes they are always smaller than the intake. But he's talking about the rocker ratio being higher so the valve actually opens more than the other it doesn't have anything to do with the size of the valve itself just thought i'd help clear that up. The rockers make the engine more efficient thus making the air go through it easier. When you put them on you lose boost because the engine is moving the air through itself alot easier and faster. That just means you step down to a smaller pulley. The blower is just that, a blower. All it does is move more air than the motor takes in and creates boost. I'm sure you all have heard that before... hopefully.... I went with 1.95's for intake and exhaust. Not really sure why you wouldn't want the extra lift especially on the intake side. Alot of people are switching over to cams from rockers so look for some of those people and buy yourself up some rockers!! its not a hard install at all, just extremely time consuming.
 

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I have 1.7 YTs with intense lightweight rods on intense stage 3 heads and stage 3 turbo cam and once the motor drops in to the tcc range (3200 RPM) it SCREAMS right up to the shift point at around 6100RPM. They'll definately free up your top end revving but they're not as effective if you don't have the exhaust (headers, dp, cat-back or all 3) and intake (cai, fwi) to support them.
 

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if you are talking about the exhaust valve itself then yes they are always smaller than the intake. But he's talking about the rocker ratio being higher so the valve actually opens more than the other it doesn't have anything to do with the size of the valve itself just thought i'd help clear that up. The rockers make the engine more efficient thus making the air go through it easier. When you put them on you lose boost because the engine is moving the air through itself alot easier and faster. That just means you step down to a smaller pulley. The blower is just that, a blower. All it does is move more air than the motor takes in and creates boost. I'm sure you all have heard that before... hopefully.... I went with 1.95's for intake and exhaust. Not really sure why you wouldn't want the extra lift especially on the intake side. Alot of people are switching over to cams from rockers so look for some of those people and buy yourself up some rockers!! its not a hard install at all, just extremely time consuming.
You're right. I was thinking about the physical size of the valves, not the ratios....
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I called a enging builder than was going to build my motor when it blew up couple years ago..

He told me he would install Rockers, INtense ecu, intercooler,copper autolite 104, for $500 labor only..

Does that sound like alot for labor?

on intense site.. stage 3 package they say. rockers, 103copper, headeers 3.2 pulley. Gatorback belt .. ecu.. etc

OKay if i do rockers, basically sounds like i would beable to run 3.2pulley....

from what i read from there site..

Is the benfits of inercooler better than rockers?


With rockers car will pass smog?

with inercooler car pass smog. but wont pass visual inspection.?

rockers are around $550 plus shipping ?

INercooler shortstack $650 plus shipping or full size inercooler for $1300 plus shipping..

What do you think i should do..????

I live in ca need car to smog...

Grand totoal with ZZP shortstack , rockers, around 2grand including labor..

WIth that combo THe car should run high 12's 3.1 pulley? COpper 104?
 

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I'll be running my YT 1.7s with an IS3 cam and IS4 heads, I can't wait.
Vinnie, do post up a sound bite of that IS3 cam and IS4 heads. I'm dying to know what that sounds like. I'd also love to know what that idles at.

Steve, If you want to get into the 12's. You probably need to be looking at copper 103's to help your situation. Between intercooler vs rockers, i'd suggest rockers first if you don't do a cam. If you do buy a camshaft, call intense to make sure you buy the correct cam to match the lifters you decide to use.

A camshaft will give you more power than lifters. But a camshaft paired with the right ratio roller lifters will also give you a bit more HP if you match them correctly. Call Intense and talk to Dyno Brian.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Steve thankyou.. Your the best person to talk to about this..

So rockes and a cam.. would be better than running a Inercooler?

Mild cam smog legal? And set of rockers what kind of power do you think or what kind of 1/4 do you think i could get..?

Thanks
 

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If you do a cam its pointless to get bigger than stock rockers on your heads unless they are st2 or higher. Doesn't matter how much lift you have because after a certain amount the head isn't going to flow any more. If you get a cam just go with stock rockers or if you want to spend that much more money get the 1.6 roller rockers for the reduced drag which is minimal at that. zzp tested 1.7's with a cam and it did nothing thus you wasting your money. Now if you had vinnies setup with a huge cam and really good flowing heads then yea get 1.7's or whatever you can add on top of the cam without getting coil bind because the heads can support the extra lift. you can easily run high 12's with just rockers, headers, intercooler, exhaust, ect. supporting mods and no cam. But if you want deep 12's you really have no choice but to get a cam unless you spray the hell out of old girl.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
If i go with Rockers and Full size inercooler and pay $500 labor for both items..

My grand total is $2500

If i do that Im assuming the car would be a sleeper.... Race for money LOL..

If i did that Im assuming a 3.1 pulley would be easy with 0kr with Copper 104 plugs correct or would i have to go with Copper 103?

With that combo stock headers just ported front maniold would i beable to drop smaller than a 3.1 ?

3.1 pulley 0 kr is that high 12's?

WIll the tranny old ..?
 

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If i go with Rockers and Full size inercooler and pay $500 labor for both items..

My grand total is $2500

If i do that Im assuming the car would be a sleeper.... Race for money LOL..

If i did that Im assuming a 3.1 pulley would be easy with 0kr with Copper 104 plugs correct or would i have to go with Copper 103?

With that combo stock headers just ported front maniold would i beable to drop smaller than a 3.1 ?

3.1 pulley 0 kr is that high 12's?

WIll the tranny old ..?
ok lets go one by one... first off put all that stuff on yourself!!! its really not as hard as it looks especially the intercooler. With an intercooler, headers not a ported manifold, and rockers you should be able to run a 2.8 pulley with no kr. If you are going to spend 100 on a ported manifold you might as well just get another 300 and buy the pacesetter headers. they are awesome and everyone really likes them alot. i love mine thats for damn sure. also remember the more stuff you add you have to take in account fuel, maf might max out, good exhaust, trans, ect. IMO after 13.5 and quicker its hard as hell on the trans. Don't ever expect your trans to hold up, it won't not even in stock form it won't hold up especially if you are racing it. They just aren't strong tranny's. with an intercooler, headers, rockers, and a good tire (assuming its tuned) you should be able to run 12's. For how long??? i have no idea. you might break your trans on the first run or the 100th but eventually it will end its own life. if you want a 12sec car you need a 10 sec trans lol. the plus side is say you are running 12.8's and you toast your trans... then you can get a new one with stronger everything, better gears, better torque converter, and just plain better and if you can hook the car up good enough you can shave another .5 sec off.
 

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Um... why wouldn't you get this: INTENSE-Racing.com: INTENSE™ Level 3 3800 L67/L32 Performance Package for $1800ish.... it comes with a FWI, a MPS with 3.2" and 3.4"ers, a 180 t-stat, colder plugs, 1.9 Yella Terra rockers, SLP headers, and a PCM tuned to fit that package. Install that yourself... if you can turn a wrench you can do everything that comes with that kit. The hardest being the rockers which come with instructions and there are write-ups everywhere. That is the best package for that price range and they claim ~75whp.

If you're looking to get more serious than that then maybe forego the stage 3 kit you were looking at and opt for the stage 2 heads & cam package. From there get headers and you're probably looking at adding ~100whp with the right pulley.

And like everyone else already stated, ALWAYS budget on TOP of your performance mods like your trans will let go any day. Dabbling in anything over a level 2 or stage 1 performance package will putting that trans through much more stress, especially if you're putting it through drag racing.
 

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Um... why wouldn't you get this: INTENSE-Racing.com: INTENSE™ Level 3 3800 L67/L32 Performance Package for $1800ish.... it comes with a FWI, a MPS with 3.2" and 3.4"ers, a 180 t-stat, colder plugs, 1.9 Yella Terra rockers, SLP headers, and a PCM tuned to fit that package. Install that yourself... if you can turn a wrench you can do everything that comes with that kit. The hardest being the rockers which come with instructions and there are write-ups everywhere. That is the best package for that price range and they claim ~75whp.
Hey that sounds like a good kit. Steve, being in Cali this is probably a great option for you. You want to avoid the cam if you want to keep your car smog legal. Some have tricked the smog machine with the S1X I've heard but with alot of de-tuning involved. Onlly problem is the SLP's are impossible to hide for visual inspection and they're so good looking that it's a crime to hide them. Honestly as much as I love the SLP's, I think you're better getting the pacesetter or TOG's and using the stock exhaust manifold heat sheilds to hide the front header when it's smog check time.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
How much is a tranny?

How much Hp can the motor handle? If you have 0 kr would it last 80,000 miles?

would it last 3.1 pulley with 0 kr ?
-------------------------------------------------------------------

Zoomer
depends where you're at now:)

stock the cars are 14.4 to 14.7 generally.
Once you add power, the times will greatly depend on traction. That can be the difference between 12's and 14s

Zooomer

ZZPerformance.com



To keep stock emissions, I would go with 1.9 rockers, our stage 2 IC and a 3.1" pulley. This would drop about .6 in the 1/4 and be less than 2k.

Zooomer
ZZPerformance.com




From what zoomer said

.6 off the 1/4 is that like 13.5 1/4? if my car was stock?
 
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