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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
as of right now, i have
3.6" pulley(only have 91 octane in oklahoma)
104 plugs
180 tstat
zzp air intake
zzp reprogrammed pcm with these mods
full 3" regal zzp stainless steel exhaust system with 3" downpipe
front and rear powerlogs
F-body brake upgrade with steel brake lines

so i'm thinking about my next major mod being the XP-rpm Cam. What do you guys think? Also what will that allow me to run in terms of pully wise?
 

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as of right now, i have
3.6" pulley(only have 91 octane in oklahoma)
104 plugs
180 tstat
zzp air intake
zzp reprogrammed pcm with these mods
full 3" regal zzp stainless steel exhaust system with 3" downpipe
front and rear powerlogs
F-body brake upgrade with steel brake lines

so i'm thinking about my next major mod being the XP-rpm Cam. What do you guys think? Also what will that allow me to run in terms of pully wise?
I would invest some money and get an aeroforce gauge and scan, scan scan. Especially for KR. I finally beat the KR problem when I installed the Stage 2 IC on a new long block from Summit racing. Their last one. You have no idea what a relief it is to run a 3.1 pulley and see no KR
 

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If you dig into the engine for a cam or IC to up the boost, your best bet is to start learning how to scan and adjust the tune to keep the car running clean and happy. I'd get a basic HPTuners setup and start logging how it runs with the ZZP tune, and soak up as much old YouTube and forum chatter about this as there's been discussed.

You can add those parts, but you'll be restricted to asking Daddy Tune Guy for help every time you want to make a tweak to your car.

Also, I'd vote for IC in your situation. I've gone the cam-first route on my GTP, and while it's also a fun gain, the headache to increase boost/timing is much more tune/temp sensitive.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
If you dig into the engine for a cam or IC to up the boost, your best bet is to start learning how to scan and adjust the tune to keep the car running clean and happy. I'd get a basic HPTuners setup and start logging how it runs with the ZZP tune, and soak up as much old YouTube and forum chatter about this as there's been discussed.

You can add those parts, but you'll be restricted to asking Daddy Tune Guy for help every time you want to make a tweak to your car.

Also, I'd vote for IC in your situation. I've gone the cam-first route on my GTP, and while it's also a fun gain, the headache to increase boost/timing is much more tune/temp sensitive.
thanks, but I talked to my mechanic friend and going by bang for your buck, I think i'm gonna go the E85 route first. #60 injectors, E85 fuel pump, rewire kit, pcm tune etc, then judging on my boost levels, adding a smaller pulley
 

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Sooo... Spending $800+ on fuel system upgrades to be able to drop 1-2 pulley sizes at entry-level, and still asking someone else to do a one-time PCM adjustment? Bold move, Cotton. Dunno why we have forums with decades of info and experience, when people have mechanic friends.

E85 is useful, but only worth the tuning headache/cost of that laundry list of parts if you're much more into a build that is on the edge of what gas can support. Since we don't have the option for Flex adjusting in our older PCM's, you'll want the ability to make the changes required for different E%'s, which is reason #325 to get HPT/learn how to start tuning yourself as you change the car more. This skillset will benefit you more than any amount of tinkering you do on this, or any, vehicle as you learn the in's and out's of what makes it run better/faster/etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Sooo... Spending $800+ on fuel system upgrades to be able to drop 1-2 pulley sizes at entry-level, and still asking someone else to do a one-time PCM adjustment? Bold move, Cotton. Dunno why we have forums with decades of info and experience, when people have mechanic friends.

E85 is useful, but only worth the tuning headache/cost of that laundry list of parts if you're much more into a build that is on the edge of what gas can support. Since we don't have the option for Flex adjusting in our older PCM's, you'll want the ability to make the changes required for different E%'s, which is reason #325 to get HPT/learn how to start tuning yourself as you change the car more. This skillset will benefit you more than any amount of tinkering you do on this, or any, vehicle as you learn the in's and out's of what makes it run better/faster/etc.
wow, that was aggressive and rude! Didn't mean to offend you and the cam install will cost me $960 in parts and over $1000 in labor, so close to $2000 and this will be an immediate hp increase since i'm only limited to 91 octane here in my state, plus i can drop pulleys. Yes best case scenario is I learn HP tuners and stuff, but this guy I use is not your local mechanic. He's a guy who has a 1200hp supercar that run's 9's and works on tons of cars and pretty much a genius in terms of tuning and working on everything, but your probably right, i'm a moron and you know more than him. I love cars, but not mechanically inclined and definitely wouldn't trust myself to learn any of that and be effective. I would rather pay an expert to do it for me.
 

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Ok, so he has a 1200hp supercar and is going to be able to charge you along the way to continually do $500-1k tweaks on a 20yr old grandpa car with an ancient iron OHV engine to get from ~225whp to ~300whp. Could be wrong, but if he's continuously working on projects at that level, the novelty of stepping away and helping will wear off fast. This is why I always promote people becoming self-sufficient when they want to mod their cars...

Case in point: I built this turbo Regal for a buddy years ago, and he didn't want to learn to work on it, just swipe credit cards for parts... After a while, he sold it to me for a fraction of what he spent, because I moved away and he was left with an awesome, but complicated build he didn't know how to tune/maintain himself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ok, so he has a 1200hp supercar and is going to be able to charge you along the way to continually do $500-1k tweaks on a 20yr old grandpa car with an ancient iron OHV engine to get from ~225whp to ~300whp. Could be wrong, but if he's continuously working on projects at that level, the novelty of stepping away and helping will wear off fast. This is why I always promote people becoming self-sufficient when they want to mod their cars...

Case in point: I built this turbo Regal for a buddy years ago, and he didn't want to learn to work on it, just swipe credit cards for parts... After a while, he sold it to me for a fraction of what he spent, because I moved away and he was left with an awesome, but complicated build he didn't know how to tune/maintain himself.
well he always needs money and your speaking from a guy who literally has one of fastest the few turbo gs in the entire world perspective, I appreciate that everyone has their own skills in life and mechanical stuff has never been mine. I like having and driving fast cars and modding them out, but never do it myself. Every time I tried, i made things worse and I've accepted that about myself. Now if you want to have a personal trainer and know about how to lose weight and gain muscle, that's my specialty. Don't know why this is so crazy to you. Must be a pet peeve of yours. Non-mechanical people that don't get it. It's ok buddy, your the man and u know how to do stuff that some of us can't, that's fine, I'm ok with that. Now just accept there's people like me that trust people like you to work on my car than me doing it myself. Still don't understand why that's such an issue with you. Either way at the end of the day I end up with what I want. A very fast grandpa car sleeper. I've had an 89 Ford Taurus SHO, Grand Marquis that I turned into a Marauder, a 1999 GTP with over 400hp than ran 13's, a 2010 Ford Taurus SHO, BMW 335i(biggest piece of crap I ever bought) etc. I like 4 door cars that are fast that most people don't know about it. The Regal GS is one of the best and cheapest Sleepers to make fun IMO
 

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Some people buy, some people build. If you want to be in the car modding realm, but only buy the parts to have someone else do the work, that's territory for vehicles on a much higher level. The point of modding a budget vehicle is the DIY aspect of squeezing the most from every penny, including not having to spend on labor. If you can afford to pay for shop rates and extra blinker fluid (joke placeholder for misc. frills added), the idea would be to get the most for it by getting into vehicles that optimize your investment.

This is a very fun platform, but it's definitely a niche market at this point. You can do it how you want, but there's been a thousand guys of each flavor come and go from these cars, taking the same approach. I'm sure you see the same in the gym, as I do when I'm in there at various times home or overseas.
 

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1998 GTP coupe. All stock and rust free. That will change soon.
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a 1999 GTP with over 400hp than ran 13's
if you've already had a GTP with over 400hp (which probably should have been in the deep 12's at that power level), then why are you asking what your next mods should be? Why not duplicate that setup?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
if you've already had a GTP with over 400hp (which probably should have been in the deep 12's at that power level), then why are you asking what your next mods should be? Why not duplicate that setup?
it was all done by a guy who was in my car club and this was about 20 years ago. He was amazing, but moved. Never took it the track, but had an 02 Transam at the time and raced that and beat it the entire time by about half a car and that car ran a 13.2, so could of been 12's
 

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Sounds like a similar story I just told. ;)

Also, half a car isn't a half second, but my old XP car dyno'd 333.5whp (~417bhp) and ran 12.7-12.9 with street tires/stock trans, so it's in the ballpark.

Just pick your path and go for it. If it's gonna make your guy more agreeable to do E85 first, have at it. You'll wind up wanting both a cam and IC to get a significant gain overall, and that's where these cars run their best with M90's anyways. (If I had put an IC on my XP/GenV setup, it'd be just under 400whp, and even more fun... I know, cuz I had the MP112 IC'd on it, and it was useless on the street.)
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Sounds like a similar story I just told. ;)

Also, half a car isn't a half second, but my old XP car dyno'd 333.5whp (~417bhp) and ran 12.7-12.9 with street tires/stock trans, so it's in the ballpark.

Just pick your path and go for it. If it's gonna make your guy more agreeable to do E85 first, have at it. You'll wind up wanting both a cam and IC to get a significant gain overall, and that's where these cars run their best with M90's anyways. (If I had put an IC on my XP/GenV setup, it'd be just under 400whp, and even more fun... I know, cuz I had the MP112 IC'd on it, and it was useless on the street.)
oh for sure. Just going with the cheaper option right now. Just spent $2700 in my first stage of mods, like to do them all at once, $1700 parts and $1000 labor, but also he fixed an ac problem, installed steel brake lines, changed my supercharger oil, changed plug wires along with the new plugs and few other things we discovered, so going this route for the cheapest immediate boost, after I race it at the track with my current setup, then either Cam or IC next, maybe both. WHat's your opinion on the shift kits from ZZP or Intense Racing? I had a homeade one made from the GTP wizard of a mechanic that made my car 400hp, but he's not around anymore and it was awesome, but that car also had a performance mode in the shifter and mine doesn't. Is it worth the install?
 

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$2,700! Damn, I think I was about halfway there when I was running 12's on a cam back in the early 2000's. Not learning it really costs you.

The ZZP/Intense kits are just variations on the DIY kits you can make for $5 and add a filter. I'd go for either Transgo or Intense, just because ZZP has been using nylon instead of brass over the years.

Performance shift doesn't matter once a tune is in a car, because you're going to have it set more aggressive than even the stock GTP perf mode at that point.

Saying it's at "400hp" is kinda sketch when you just put it out there (round numbers and no data always brings the scrutiny). I'd just say you had XYZ mods and be happy with it, if you never track'd/dyno'd something after modding.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
$2,700! Damn, I think I was about halfway there when I was running 12's on a cam back in the early 2000's. Not learning it really costs you.

The ZZP/Intense kits are just variations on the DIY kits you can make for $5 and add a filter. I'd go for either Transgo or Intense, just because ZZP has been using nylon instead of brass over the years.

Performance shift doesn't matter once a tune is in a car, because you're going to have it set more aggressive than even the stock GTP perf mode at that point.

Saying it's at "400hp" is kinda sketch when you just put it out there (round numbers and no data always brings the scrutiny). I'd just say you had XYZ mods and be happy with it, if you never track'd/dyno'd something after modding.
yeah this time thought i'm taking my car to the track everytime. Ran a 15.2 Stock, hoping to get in the mid 14's with my current setup, and then with e85 and some smaller pulley low 14's or high 13's, then IC and Cam, 12's and lower. I'll probably be at a stopping point anything in the 11's, evan 11.99
 
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