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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all,

Having a fun time figuring all the quirks. This is my 8th Park and by far the most upgraded. Rocker swaps, tb spacer, 3.4 underpulley. Major heat issues though and nothing has worked so far, worst in traffic.

I had 96 that had less mods and had a lot more torque. I am almost tempted to go down to a 3.25 pulley for more torque. Anyone ever run into the Vacuum connectors being a problem. Two of mine have heat rotted and are now taped.
 

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Hello all,

Having a fun time figuring all the quirks. This is my 8th Park and by far the most upgraded. Rocker swaps, tb spacer, 3.4 underpulley. Major heat issues though and nothing has worked so far, worst in traffic.

I had 96 that had less mods and had a lot more torque. I am almost tempted to go down to a 3.25 pulley for more torque. Anyone ever run into the Vacuum connectors being a problem. Two of mine have heat rotted and are now taped.
Yea, these vac lines rot out all the time. Just part of accepting the good with the bad, I guess. Are you looking for a way to cure the vac hose problem or just asking?

I know guys that have purchased bulk brake line and bent it to fit, that way the minimal vac hose they still had to use was only in small sections to connect the vac fitting to the newly fabricated metal vacuum line. It can even be bent into a tight 180 if you have a decent bender. You can paint and secure down the lines also making for a very clean look.:)
 

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heat issues...

Hows the dexkill? Did you flush it all out?

What degree thermostat you have? 180 drilled.

How many miles do you have. Water pump acting up.

If someone has a tuner to have the fans turned on earlier. Or get a intense pcm(has lots of nice features).

I would get rid of the TB spacer . They usually warp and cause vacuum leaks.

Get rid of the engine cover AKA heat trap yet? What about the weatherstripping by the cowl(took mine off with no issues even with mass amounts of leaves/snow).

Bruce
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Re did dex cool. actually made it worse. 160 performance stat, remove the engine cover.

I was going to wrap the crossover pipes until I saw pep boys wanting 50.00 for 50ft of wrap. I have to check around.

Trying to find a way to get rid of the early overdrive and turn the fans on sooner without spending 400 on a scan tool.
 

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Re did dex cool. actually made it worse. 160 performance stat, remove the engine cover.

I was going to wrap the crossover pipes until I saw pep boys wanting 50.00 for 50ft of wrap. I have to check around.

Trying to find a way to get rid of the early overdrive and turn the fans on sooner without spending 400 on a scan tool.
PCM or a tuner is about the only way to go. When you mention too much heat, is the engine actually overheating or are you just trying to keep the underhood temps down?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
heat

Trying to keep temps down and also borderline overheating. Today it was 23 degrees in Chicago and the temp was averaging between 192 and 205 degrees. Just seems too hot. I went to get header tape to wrap the stock crossover and since the Ceramic crossover is 90 bucks I will do that instead of the 50.00 in wrap and cut/burnt hands.
 

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If you're running a 160* t/stat it will only keep it at 160 when there is air flow going through the radiator (provided the radiator isn't constricted). To keep the temp at 160 when idling you need to have the PCM reprogrammed so that the fans will come on at a lower temps, it's easy to do if you have a tuner. On that model of car the fans won't come on till about 205-210. Does it get hot at idle but then drop down once you get going about 35 mph or more? If so you need to change the fan settings. If it doesn't cool down once you get it moving it's probably a constricted radiator.
 

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I agree with the programming of the 160. That is crucial in order for the mod to work. Also, flush the crap out of your radiator and fill it with all new coolant. Throw some of tht purple ice from royal purple in there. All of those suggestions should solve your problem. If it doesn't then there is either an obstruction, or your fans don't work.
 

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195* is when the fans turn on. Did you get rid of the weather stripping on the cowl by the wipers yet?


A 160* thermo is too cold for that right now I heard the knock sensors don't do anything until 160 anyways. someone can verify this...

you need a pcm from intense they have lots of options that will greatly benefit your mod level right now. Especially getting the firmer shifts.


Bruce
 

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Ok. buying a tuner is out of your budget, an intense pcm for a hundred bucks will keep you happy. lower fan temps. better everything.
 

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How many miles are on the engine? I had a supercharged 3800 in a Regal GS with about 170,000 miles on it that was over heating. It would be fine at 30+ mph, but slower would heat up fast. I ended up changing out the radiator, all the hoses before finding that it was the (killer) dextron coolant that hadn't been changed often enough before I bought the car: it turns bad and attacks aluminum in the engine if you don't change it often enough; it ate the vanes on the water pump. There was nothing left of them when I put in the new pump.

I'd seriously check out the water pump and get the engine, rad, and heater cores thoroughly flushed out to see if that helps out. Changing to a cooler thermostat won't help if coolant is not circulating.

I ended up installing a used engine with only 32k miles on it. The place I got the engine from doesn't seem to be on the web any more.
I got my supercharger rebuilt very reasonably (with a lifetime warrantee on it) at PSE Supercharger Remanufacturing PSE Supercharger Remanufacturing They limit the size of your pulley on the warantie, though.


Good Luck!
 

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We should hook up, I work in Libertyville @ 45 and Winchester (that rather large electronics company that favors cellular communications devices....) We can datalog and tune it directly....



Trying to keep temps down and also borderline overheating. Today it was 23 degrees in Chicago and the temp was averaging between 192 and 205 degrees. Just seems too hot. I went to get header tape to wrap the stock crossover and since the Ceramic crossover is 90 bucks I will do that instead of the 50.00 in wrap and cut/burnt hands.
 

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Vacuum Line

Hello all,

Having a fun time figuring all the quirks. This is my 8th Park and by far the most upgraded. Rocker swaps, tb spacer, 3.4 underpulley. Major heat issues though and nothing has worked so far, worst in traffic.

I had 96 that had less mods and had a lot more torque. I am almost tempted to go down to a 3.25 pulley for more torque. Anyone ever run into the Vacuum connectors being a problem. Two of mine have heat rotted and are now taped.
Yes, I have... The car all of a sudden started making a grinding noise and the check engine light was on and I couldn't figure out for the life of me what was going on... Until I pulled out the stock air box and installed my new intake... something was not plugged in (found other end of plug and plugged it in) and the little rubber tube holding my vacuum lines together had rotted apart. Went to AutoZone guy gave me a piece of tubing, put it on, and check engine light went off :). Been running smooth ever since except that I to am getting high temps (190 to 200) sometimes barely over 200 and temps outside now are around high 70's to low 80's. No other mods yet except for the new Intake (love the new sound of the supercharger whine!!) Still not sure what the unplugged plug was but it was in the same area as the rotted piece of the vacuum line.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Definitely. Would be glad to get in touch. Golf at all? Does Dave Krause still work there? Used to be my neighbor. I removed the rockers on Sunday. NO loss of performance. MPG up to 22+ again. Will probably put platinum plugs back in again to see if can get mpg back to 27 a gallon before the mods. Rockers were causing too much knock and didnt want to spend $6.00 a gallon for clark racing fuel.
 

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Linx, your KR issues aren't just about the rockers. In fact, they probably helped some. The big problem is that 3.4 pulley with no PCM changes or exhaust mods. I have a 3.4 pulley, and SLP headers, and I very rarely see any knock at all. Until you can get a PCM and exhaust work, I'd drop down to a 3.6 or so.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Definitely. Would be glad to get in touch. Golf at all? Does Dave Krause still work there? Used to be my neighbor. I removed the rockers on Sunday. NO loss of performance. MPG up to 22+ again. Will probably put platinum plugs back in again to see if can get mpg back to 27 a gallon before the mods. Rockers were causing too much knock and didnt want to spend $6.00 a gallon for clark racing fuel.



=n0dih;161141]We should hook up, I work in Libertyville @ 45 and Winchester (that rather large electronics company that favors cellular communications devices....) We can datalog and tune it directly....[/QUOTE]
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I have the smallest pulley upgrade. Header work it too much and hard to find places that will do the work. I had the down pipe and hi flow cat from 3800performance.com but all it did was keep the engine light on and blow through O2's. I removed the resonator and kept stock and there was no variance in the performance. Removing the rockers eliminated the knock altogether and no power loss throughout the range. PCM sounds like the most reasonable w/o losing Mpg.


Linx, your KR issues aren't just about the rockers. In fact, they probably helped some. The big problem is that 3.4 pulley with no PCM changes or exhaust mods. I have a 3.4 pulley, and SLP headers, and I very rarely see any knock at all. Until you can get a PCM and exhaust work, I'd drop down to a 3.6 or so.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
SLP Perf, Alum Rockers,Rods, Instr,Bolts

Hey gang, Since I removed the rockers is there any interest in a trade or doesnt anyone want them. I removed them after putting them in last Sept 2008. Used about 10K miles and full synthetic. Not even scoring.
 
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