[GTPsurvivor]

The pulley system is making a strong whirring noise as if it's meeting a lot of resistance, but all pulleys are turning, including the SC. It's turning but not working, there's very little power available and the dash shows no engine boost. Burning gas like an SUV. I'm going to pull the SC belt off for now since it's not working, but if anyone could give me some troubleshooting advice, that would be appreciated.
I know this, whenever a compatible 3800 with SC shows up at any junkyard, the SC is gone the next day. You have to basically sit next to the fence every day to get one. I think some people may do that, but anyway... maybe I can fix mine if anyone knows how.

 

[dezldave961]

I would also check your accessories (alt, PS, WP, AC) and the tensioner pulley. As soon as you pulled the belt, you should have also been able to check if the 2 idler/tensioner pulleys were potentially the issue, or if the S/C was turning smoothly.

Yes, we hop on here to offer advice and experiences, but you are the person physically dealing with it, and I bet you can apply some detective work at a basic level to get a better idea what's going on. Plus, the better info you get, the better advice we can provide (cheapest solution, best long-term repair, etc.).

 

[GTPsurvivor]

Alright, so after I removed the SC pulley, nothing changed at all. The SC still turns by hand, but apparently it doesn't engage. I ran the OBD and was surprised to find a new error: Barometric sensor. I checked on the MAP and it was still there as usual, however, it had become disconnected, which must have happened from removing and replacing the engine cover repeatedly. I reset DTC's and the MAP error disappeared as expected.
However, conditions didn't improve much, all the pulleys still running, I tested the alternator and battery load on and off.
It's still misfiring and running shittily. At low RPM's the RPM bounces up and down from 700 to 1000 continuously. Once I get going a decent speed it stabilizes more or less. However, still no SC power, no boost reading, and it's not backfiring after I accelerate then release the pedal, like it used to. I'm fearing the SC is dead, meantime I'm going to try new spark wires because last time, that was what solved the endless misfire issue.
But the SC, any ideas?
Thanks.

 

[dezldave961]

If you beat on it with the MAP unplugged, you might've wrecked the engine. That's how I accidentally chunked pistons on my first engine in ~'05, cutting signal wire from the MAP when I used a vampire connector for an alky kit (never again to either).

Unless your SC coupler cracked, it's not a failure point that's the issue. There's no black magic inside there beyond 2 rotors turning off the shaft from the pulley, with a few bearings and gears that hold in place (pics galore online).

Are any of your spark plugs coming out with the gap self-closed? This is one of the main indicators of the bad result I mentioned.

Getting into the pedal/boost on a hurt or struggling engine is a common sense thing to avoid, because you're doubling the chances of causing a bigger problem. That detective work I mentioned above is critical to saving time, money, and effort... I'd step back and gather some more info before causing more problems.

 

[GTPsurvivor]

I don't know what more info to gather? Everything is the same except loss of SC boost, and the low RPM weirdness. I'll check all the sparks, only looked at the 3 front, they looked fine. The rear plugs are a pain to get to as you know but I'm guessing the misfires are due to the wires which wear out every 2 years because it's hot here in Fla. But like I said, the no-boost SC issue is a concern.

 

[dezldave961]

Never had that plug wire issue down here in Brevard FL over 7-8yrs, but nonetheless, it's going to point to something, just can't help you from afar with the detailed nuances of troubleshooting once the process has been half done.

 

[GTPsurvivor]

Damm I was living in Brevard for 3 months but had to return to Lake to renew registration. I would have dropped by to avoid the afar issue. There are no new OBD errors appearing, but I don't think the erratic idling is the end of it. Just a symptom of a problem I can't pinpoint. Frustrating but yes ever since I moved to Fla the wires overheat and expire every 2 years.

 

[dezldave961]

I'd consider doing a 180 stat, and if you do get a reprogramming at some point, make sure fan set points start fairly low (approx at t-stat temp, and high fans about 15deg higher).

Feel free to email if you want to coordinate something, and I'll try to help you figure out a gameplan based on who/what's available.

 

[GTPsurvivor]

Thanks man. What happened was a couple years ago, I realized the fans were only coming on when the temp got up to 210 which is way too late. So I hotwired a switch to the fan relay and was turning it on and off. Recently the switch failed and when I manually tried to put in the jumper, it failed so there is likely a wiring issue but that's going to be a nightmare if I have to replace the harness, it goes in 10 directions as you know. But I replaced the relay and keep the AC on and thus that 1 fan engages so I'm keeping it cool for the most part. Except idling at stoplights which is awful.