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I have a stock 3800 L67, Installing a new UIM and LIM gaskets. This car is going to be with my son for a couple of years, I won't have daily access to it to keep track of fluid levels.

I want to get the UIM as reliable as possible. I read somewhere? that lowering the coolant temp will help with UIM life. The car has always had a 195 degree thermostat in it. And I believe that the PCM uses that 195 degree as a reference water temp. (?)

Does anybody run a 180 degree thermostat? Do you have to retune the PCM? to turn the SEL off?

Thanks all.
 
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GM designed it to run @ 195, unless you are racing or running high boost, I would leave it at 195.

The PCM won't trip a light >130F anyway, so no worries there.

Best mpg, higher oil temps is better for lubricity, better for emissions. I would leave it.

I have a stock 3800 L67, Installing a new UIM and LIM gaskets. This car is going to be with my son for a couple of years, I won't have daily access to it to keep track of fluid levels.

I want to get the UIM as reliable as possible. I read somewhere? that lowering the coolant temp will help with UIM life. The car has always had a 195 degree thermostat in it. And I believe that the PCM uses that 195 degree as a reference water temp. (?)

Does anybody run a 180 degree thermostat? Do you have to retune the PCM? to turn the SEL off?

Thanks all.
 

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I'm with (^) that guy! Nothing better and more reliable than stock!
 

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I will look at it some more, some things don't get turned on right at lower temps. I know my LT1 EGR will not be turned on at all if the coolant temp is below like 80C, considering it is a FACTORY 180F thermostat and with my factory mech fan, rarely gets over 80C...
 

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On a stock PCM, the fans are set to turn on above 195* and turn off again when the temps drop back again to 195. If you install a cooler tstat, the coolant temps may stay a little lower at first when it opens, but eventually without air moving over the radiator, the temps are going to hang around 195-200 anyway on hot days. It is always better to adjust the fan settings when going with a colder tstat.

Still, a 180 tstat on a stock supercharged engine can help reduce knock and really doesn't hurt anything, so it's your call about switching. Personally, I have run a 180 since my car was new. On very cold days, you may get a code for slow warmup. The best solution to avoid this is to swap back to a 195 in the winter.
 

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So here I go again...... The coolant temps and OEM recomendations......

One thing that has not been mentioned with the various discussions about what temps are best for engine operation is what do you want to achieve. If you want a good running stock OEM operation, then by all means follow manufactures recomendations. Their recomendations are for a large part best for US EPA emissions regulations. If you are a die-hard save the planet by reducing hydrocarbons in the air, go for it.

If you are a serious hot rodder/racing enthusiast, run it cooler and with more timing. If you ever go to a local DRAG strip(NHARA SANCTIONED), talk to some of the serious drag racers about their tuning process and engine temps. If you are on the side of EPA followers and OEM recomendations, you are going to be disappointed. Now on the flip side of this line of engine temps are the NASCAR racers. They run hot (when you are on a 500 mile WIDE OPEN THROTTLE race, there's not much choice). And they have engines and tuning that is modeled for those conditions and determined by extensive dyno tuning for these RACE CONDITIONS. We do not have these engines or technology nor can we afford this.

There are two different mind-sets on engine tuning and engine operating temps. One for the long hard wide open throttle and the 1/4 mile drag racers where they run at max tune(timing, fuel ratios, and generally for a very short time relatively speaking). From my personal experience,(been drag racing since the early 60's), cooler and richer with more timing produces best results at the finish line. On my street hot rods that see street crusing and LOTS of wide open running I run cold (no thermostat which still gets engine temps up to near 180 after a while). Now when I do this, I always allow engine warm up time before I hit the street or track. Usually I like to see cooling system temps at 160 before driving or any hard throttle runs. This warm up time I use is long enough to get pistons heated to reach full expansion for best cylinder wall to piston clearance dimensions and at the same time the engine oil has also heated enough to allow good flow to all the critical components. And these lower temps allow me to use more ignition timing with corosponding fuel mixture for max horse power results and WINNING MORE DRAG RACES.

One thing that definetly kills engines sooner is heat. Heat can break down oils, cause too much internal expansion(which can destroy even the best pistons....good oils and proper clearances generally are ok so bearings, cranks, cams, rocker arms, etc are not effected by higher temps.

Another thing many of todays tuners do not keep in mind as much as I and most serious racers do is too quick fuel atomization process. This is when fuel enters the cylinders for combustion. HOTTER engine temps can cause very fast atomization resulting in excessively lean fuel mixtures resulting in piston and ring failures(if you are running a supercharged or turbo charged engine, lean conditions are like a BLOW TORCH inside you cylinders melting anything in there). Generally these failures are catastrophic and extremely expensive.

SO, if you are just the run of the mill hotrodder(and that's ok to be in this group) around town go ahead and use the OEM tune and temps. If you want more than that........... Guess I've said too much already.

Best of luck to all! Jake
 

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OH! I forgot to mention I do not run a thermostat in the mild temp months of the year but I do run a 160/170 degree in the MINNESOTA winter...

Jake
 

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I have a stock 3800 L67, Installing a new UIM and LIM gaskets. This car is going to be with my son for a couple of years, I won't have daily access to it to keep track of fluid levels.

I want to get the UIM as reliable as possible. I read somewhere? that lowering the coolant temp will help with UIM life. The car has always had a 195 degree thermostat in it. And I believe that the PCM uses that 195 degree as a reference water temp. (?)

Does anybody run a 180 degree thermostat? Do you have to retune the PCM? to turn the SEL off?

Thanks all.
I my self was contemplating a transmission cooler kit , the only time my automatic shift s hard when it cold
 

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I my self was contemplating a transmission cooler kit , the only time my automatic shift s hard when it cold
I my self was contemplating a transmission cooler kit , the only time my automatic shift s hard when it cold
That's a questionable discussion.... For me (being and old timer) I follow my years of DRAG RACING. We always ran our rides as cool as possible.....like no thermostat and a COOL CAN to keep fuel colder also. This has worked for a long time. I first saw this at local drag strips. I think the reason for this was to keep fuel cool which at a drag strip was pretty much a necessity for all out performance(fuel won't atomize too fast). Now days my street hot rod stays under 160/170 degrees and the car works very good with cooler temps.(cooler air temps are denser-more O2). On another note, when I take it out for a ride/thrill, I also get engine/coolant temp up to 160 degrees or so just to be sure everything gets lubricated before doing some hard throttle speed/rpm. Most of you guys and gals probably don't quite get it, but if you were to go to a local 1/4mile track, you would most likely see others keeping their rides cool and ready for hard throttle. Mind you, one should warm up the engine enough for complete lubrication......using GOOD OILS.....like mobile one or other race type engine oils. Any way that's my little story(from drag racing). Now days I still do this when the car/engine is cold. This allows good oiling and it's ready to go. Thanks for reading my post.....even if you don't see my point of view. Have a good one, and if you are looking for help on your ride post your issues on the forum. Happy hauling A--! Jake (mr goodwrench)

One last issue with temps .... transmissions will work best it they too are warmed up....this allows for faster ATF distribution inside the trans and this can help for piston to clutch functions to control any internal slippage. Thanks for reading my BS...... Jake
 

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I my self was contemplating a transmission cooler kit , the only time my automatic shift s hard when it cold
I have seen a few different types of trans oil pans. There are some that have cooling tubes inside the trans oil pan to allow cooler ATF operation. There are also small radiators for cooling ATF fluids. Normally these are mounted in front of the radiator for best heat dissipation. One other thing to consider is.....occasionally clean all the road/dust debris for radiator and trans cooler......you don't want to over any components.... Mr Goodwrench
 

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I my self was contemplating a transmission cooler kit , the only time my automatic shift s hard when it cold
I have a stock 3800 L67, Installing a new UIM and LIM gaskets. This car is going to be with my son for a couple of years, I won't have daily access to it to keep track of fluid levels.

I want to get the UIM as reliable as possible. I read somewhere? that lowering the coolant temp will help with UIM life. The car has always had a 195 degree thermostat in it. And I believe that the PCM uses that 195 degree as a reference water temp. (?)

Does anybody run a 180 degree thermostat? Do you have to retune the PCM? to turn the SEL off?

Thanks all.
NO LEAVE THE 195 IN THERE . cooler can cause other problem's .
 

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NO LEAVE THE 195 IN THERE . cooler can cause other problem's .
Hummm, I have not been using a thermostat for several years and there has not been any issues.....except the heater inside the car is somewhat weak. That doesn't matter to me at all. Even with no thermostat I still have heat but it is somewhat week. On another note, if the engine is cold, I simply let it run until I can feel heat form the heater. And away she goes. Jake/Mr Goodwrench
 

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Hummm, I have not been using a thermostat for several years and there has not been any issues.....except the heater inside the car is somewhat weak. That doesn't matter to me at all. Even with no thermostat I still have heat but it is somewhat week. On another note, if the engine is cold, I simply let it run until I can feel heat form the heater. And away she goes. Jake/Mr Goodwrench
Hi Jake just curious what do you have in your every day car ,If I missed any information on your make and year and engine I'm and idiot , but I speed read , You sure are thanked..:rolleyes:
 

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Hi Jake just curious what do you have in your every day car ,If I missed any information on your make and year and engine I'm and idiot , but I speed read , You sure are thanked..:rolleyes:
Well, my every day driver is a 2008 Accord 2.4L.. It is a pretty good all around car. Being in the auto repair industry for a LONG TIME, it is plain to see HONDAS are by far the most reliable every day cars. My fun car is a highly modded 2003 GTP with all the ad on goodies. It pretty much has everything.....except TRACTION..... A very fun car to drive. One just has to be careful with TIRE SPIN and the loud ZZP exhaust. And that's ok..... if one wants to go fast, using the ZZP exhaust system does give more power. A good set of headers is very helpful also.
 

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Jake is like a spam bot came to life and bought a 3800. :ROFLMAO: I finally figured out what his posting habits and syntax reminded me of.
 

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Well, hellow to you too. Being a SUPER MODERATOR, one would think name calling or something like that has no place on the 3800 pro forum. OR, do the forum managers even look at the posts on the 3800 pro forum?....
No matter, what it is , is what it is. From my standpoint, I may not agree with other posts, and I do not do any bashing of others. Everyone is entitled to their point of view.....including you. I personally don't be little others and their posted messages. One would hope a moderator would most certainly ad hear to normal forum discussions, but not always as some posts have shown. If I have offended anyone on this forum, please say so. Guess giving help and recomendations is not condoned , or some one just doesn't like me. Guess I can't change that, nor will I even try. No point in bashing or something like that. Hope you have a good day, and other 's on this discussion. As always, I am more than willing to help others on this forum. No matter who you are or what you drive, I'm always interested and I have MANY YEARS OF EXPERIENCE. Been in the auto industry since the 70's. Still at it at my shop in WHITE BEAR LAKE, Minnesota.
Thanks for taking the time to read this post. Sincerely, Jake L (mr goodwrench). On another note, helow dezldave, I hope the best for you also.....gosh, I wish you could do this for me too....... Thanks for taking the time to read the posts.....
 

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Not really a personal attack, just noting your tendencies to pivot into vague resumé sharing rather than direct answers to a question. I know you like sharing and mean well, so I try to ensure people don't get lost in the discussion about your car having MANY BIG MODS while just asking some basic questions. (there's value in establishing credibility when giving advice, but some restraint comes into play, as well... I'm certain that I make mistakes in my delivery choices all the time, too)

Sometimes folks want to ask a question and get an answer to get back in the garage, or head to the store ready to apply the right fixes.

If you want to give us a run-down of your story, I fully encourage you to start a post that can be a one-stop-shop for everyone to discuss that. Heck, I spent ~5yrs around the Twin Cities in the 3800 peak years, and even dated a girl from Mahtomedi/Grant for a couple years while helping build many if the GTP/GS/etc. cars that ran around at the time, so I'm surprised I never met you. I hope you get to drop all that info in a spot that consolidates those details, so you know the info is out there (kinda why I started my own post for the current Regal stuff).

Edit - my only moderator actions are basically ensuring the daily 5-10 new spam accounts don't clutter the forum. Everyone else can share how they like, and opinions like mine and yours are free to differ without getting out of hand.
 
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