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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Girlfriend has a 1997 GTP. Its unmodded~!

Only thing under her hood aftermarket, is a set of ZZP upper motor mounts.

She has told me the RPMs will drop to zero - "peggs it" as she says, and the iddle gets rough, like its missfiring, but not drastic. She says it runs fine, and hasnt died on her, and she can really tell it when its doing that and she tries to gas it, the tach. will stay on zero, and the car wil sputter.

She says when that happens, she will pull over, stop, and turn it off and resart the car and everything is fine. It will act nice for a week, then start this up again. This has been going on for two months, but at first it wasnt happening every week. At first, it would do this once a month...now its getting more common.

She puts 91 pump gas in like she was taught to. :D

Ideas what this could be?

I have not drove it...or ridden in it to experance it, so this is going off her words.

The only thing I have seen lately on her car is a leaking rear head gasket I'm just dreading changing for her. :(

Ideas to look into...Where should I start?

~Farnsworth~
 

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91? i only run 93 or higher.

A place to start woudl be fuel preasure and or fuel filter. When is the last time that fuel filter was changed?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I'll check fuel pressure.

As for the fuel filter, I dont think it has ever been changed. Might as well do that anyway - even if its not the problem.

As I started off saying her car is bone stock, so 91 is all she needs.

~Farnsworth~
 

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With the Tach droppong to 0 like that, I'd suspect the CPS.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
CPS?

Crank Position or Cam position sensor? I know its more common for the Crank sensor to go out. I have already replaced 3 of them for people. That could be the cause.

Something to look into.

~Farnsworth~
 

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Crank sensor

Would you happen to have a part # for this? I have the same problem occasionally. Is there a write-up for changing this or is it pretty straight forward?

Thanks,
Jamie
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
For a part number no, not on me. You can call any auto parts store, O'Reillys - Autozone so on....they would have them. You can get an AC Delco or another brand...but they are both made in Mexico, and both have the same part number. Ofcorse the AC Delco's more expensive...but both carry a lifetime warranty...so I would just get the cheeper brand and the money you spend can go towards the beer your gonna buy to do the install.

I dont have a write up...but I can kinda tell you how to do it.

1. Disconnect your battery

2. remove your belts, supercharged car...both belts.

3. jack up the right front of your car and remove your right front wheel.

4. support it on a jack stand for safty.

5. inside your wheel well, remove that plastic splash shield protecting your belts from water...road grime. You will have to remove the wire that connected to it, thats your wheel sensor. You dont have to disconnect it...but you can (unplug it) to get it out of the way if you choose.

6. remove your plastic flywheel cover. This is located between the engine and the transmission...I think 2 or 3 screws hold it in place.

7. With an impact you want to remove the balancer bolt. If you dont have an impact...you want to use one, trust me. (its regular threads - left loose)

8. You will see some "slits" in the balancer face. if you have a very bright flash light and good eyes you can look into them and see some small threads deep inside. This is the fun part, you have to go buy you some bolts that are the same thread and long enough to screw all the way in to those threds, and still beable to have the remover tool under the heads of the bolt. I would also get you some washers. You will need three bolts, and three washers, and a balancer remover tool. If you dont have the tool, you can rent one from the auto parts store. The toll will come with bolts...but they will all be too big chances are.

9. the bolt you removed that holds the balancer on, its long, and changes are the bolt that comes witht he tool is too short to bottom out inside that hole of the crank. So, whatI would do is get you a socket that is small enough to fit down that hole, better use a deep socket BTW. Next get you a uld used nut of some sort that will fit down that hole as well. You want them to all fit loose so you can get them out real easy.

10. get your tool, and your correct bolts and washers, and hook it up. You want to make sure that your long bolt of the tool that goes down the hole of the crank hits that nut in the middle. That way it will be pushing on the nut and not on your good socket.

11. remove the balancer by turning the middle long bolt of the tool. You might have to have somebody hold the fly wheel with a heavy duty screw driver or small pry bar to keep it from spinning on you. Thats why you wanted to remove the fly wheel cover. The balancer usually comes off pretty easy, from allthe ones I have removed. Or you can buy the GM tool to hold the fly wheel if your working alone part number is: J 37096

12. once its loose and you can shake it with your hands, remove your tool, but not the balancer, with both hands free, CAREFULLY remove the balancer and being careful and slow about it, you dont want to dammage the back side of it by banging it around of stuff. If you dammage those fins on the back there is a change it can never read right again, or damage your new sensor when the car if first run when you get it together. So, be careful~!

13. now that is done, you will see the sensor. Its square looking, and have two slits in the middle of it. You want to unhook the balancer/sensor shield now. Its held on with pressure, you "pop" it off the tabs that are holding the front cover on. Just use your hands or a flat screw driver and just pop it off.

14. unplug your sensor

15. there are two bolts that hold the sensor on, as well as holds the front cover on. Remove those two bolts and off comes your sensor.

16. install your new sensor, and coat the bolt threads with pipe sealent (pipe thread compound with tefflon...tefflon paste) NOT TAPE!

17. torque the bolts back to 30 N-m or 22 lb. ft.

18. remove your nut and socket from the crank bolt hole you put down there.

19. lube the seal surface of the crankshaft balancer with clean engine oil

20. install the balancer - you can spin it left or right so it will ingage with the key on the crank now by hand push it on as far as it will go.

21. install the balancer bolt, I use some RTV gasket maker on the back side of the head of the bolt to prevent leaks if any. The bolt will have GM's orange stuff on there anyway chances are. You dont HAVE to but I always do. You can also coat the threads of the bolt with clean engine oil, couldnt hurt.

Now for the REALLY fun part:

22. Tighten the balancer bolt to 150N-m or 111 lb. ft. You will want somebody to hold the flywheel inplace so the engine doesnt turn over. You will need to use a dial indactor on your sockets...extensions etc. You need an additional 76* (degrees) on top of the 111 lb. ft. of torque you did already.

You will need a cheeter bar on your ratchet to get the torque to move it 76*.

23. if you disconnected your wheel sensor reconnect it and install your wheel well cover that protects your belts. put back on your wheel, remove your jack stand, and lower you car. (lug nuts to 100 lb. ft.) install your belts, reconnect your battery, and hopefully if that sensor was bad you have just fixed your problem.

If any body has any questions abou t this they can email me at: [email protected]

Thank you and good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I talked with a member who was having all kinds of problems with his car and we changed his crankshaft sensor and ever since, its been fine. I asked what all was it was doing and here were some of the symptoms:

-Loss of power at times
-Rough iddle
-Tach. resting at zero (o) RPM's when engine is running

over time...it only gets worse:

-Car dies at a stop (red light)
-Car dies and doesnt restart for a while
-Car dies while driving
-Car dies while driving and doesnt restart for a while

I'm sure over time if it is left unchanged, the car will die, and will not resart.

So, Because of her rough idle, and tach. on zero, I am going to replace her sensor.

I picked one up fro O'Reilly's, part number BWD CSS20; $25.99 Lifetime warranty Made by Borg Warner in Mexico. Its going to be crazy here with the holiday and no garage to work in...its going to snow....so she will just have to wait till I get to it. ;)

~Farnsworth~
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Here are some pictures of the balancer puller tool...the tool installed and what you might expest to see when you start removing parts of the car. If you have not done this before...I'd leave it to somebody who has to do the work. Other than that...pretty cut and dry.

The balncer with the tool installed ready to pull:

You want to go buy you some grade 5 bolts at a min. strength. I would recomend grade 8 and some matching washers so you kow they will last a while. I was able to remove 4 balancers with grade 5 bolts before the bolts "wore out".

The size of bolt you want is: 1/4-28x3" thats a 1/4" bolt with fine 28 thread pitch and no longer and no shorter than 3"

Balancer removed:


Back of the balancer...and the fins you must be carefull not to bend or dammage or the balancer is junk and you will be emailing ED to get another:


This is the sensor shild that you have to remove, this is a removed picture so you can see where its attached so you dont break it and have to email ED:


This is what it looks like with the sensor removed from the engine:

you can now see the sensor, and the two bolts that hold it on.

Follow the instructions above...and you cant go wrong.

Replaced my girlfriends sensor tonight...and so far on out 30 some mile test drive everything is ok for now.

There you go, my write up with pictures!

~Farnsworth~
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
ED, you offer a lifetime waranty of your removed parts? Kick ass! :)

Na, its cool...I had two spares myself, so we just went to O'Relly's and bought her a new one. It was part of her Christmas present. The sensor...and the installment.

BTW, a dealer****, oops, I mean a dealershiP charges $50.00 for the part, and labor makes the bill come up to $165.00 before tax.

You wanna know what a dealership charges for a rear head gasket install? You dont want to know...with parts and labor, I can buy a new take out engine with 0 to 10 miles on it for less than they would charge to replace a head gasket...and still managae to break stuff, loose parts, and not stand behind their service. Man I'm glad I can work on my own cars.

Shade tree mechinc standing tall!

~Farnsworth~
 

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If the crank sensor doesn't fix your problem, try replacing the FUEL PUMP RELAY if you haven't done that yet. The fact that she is able to drive the car may rule the fuel pump relay out but you may want to do that mod anyway.
 

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11. remove the balancer by turning the middle long bolt of the tool. You might have to have somebody hold the fly wheel with a heavy duty screw driver or small pry bar to keep it from spinning on you. Thats why you wanted to remove the fly wheel cover. The balancer usually comes off pretty easy, from allthe ones I have removed. Or you can buy the GM tool to hold the fly wheel if your working alone part number is: J 37096


Vice grips work fine to hold the flywheel
 
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