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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello, I am trying to separate a 99 l67 from the transmission. The motor locked up, I suspect it is a broken flex plate since the oil was clean. I've got the cradle out, and everything removed except for the bolts attaching the converter to the flex plate. What is going to be the best way to get to those bolts? I can only see one, and cannot get the engine to turn over for the life of me. I was going to try and separate the motor with the converter still attached but it does not seem to want to go. Thanks in advance
 

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If it won't turn over, you might have to pull the engine with TC attached out from the transmission. This is only possible with it out, as you said it is. The converter should pop out easily while the engine is tugging at it on a hoist, just be careful not to torque it up/down at an angle until it clears the input & pump shafts (~4-5" separation). Just be careful, in case the flexplate winds up being the problem, so you don't drop the converter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Okay I will give it another shot tonight. If I understand this correctly it's going to get messy when that converter separates from the trans correct?
 

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There's about a quart of ATF in the converter, but only a dribble comes out as it sits sideways.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Good to know, thank you!
Hoping that my issue is just the flexplate, from what I can see it looks fine but with absolutely no metal in the oil I don't think it was a bottom-end failure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I was able to separate enough to get to the flex plate bolts, thanks again for the assist.
Flex plate doesn't look cracked, and the motor still won't turn over on the stand. Going to remove the flex plate just to completely rule that out, although I fear there is a bottom end issue. Oil pan will probably be coming off shortly. One weird thing I noticed is when I pulled the bolt holding the harmonic balancer down oil dribbled out of the bolt hole, which seemed odd.
 

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Ya, I did a crank bolt yesterday, and the same happened. It's common.

You might have an internal seizure of a bearing due to water intrusion from failed old-style plastic intake gaskets, or something like that.

If it's something bad, you can get a fresh engine, especially a non-s/c 3800 S2-3 (if you want a little extra pep under the M90), for a decent price from a yard, car-part.com listing, eBay, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Bottem end was busted, looks like a rod bolt broke. Looks like I'll be looking for a new motor.
You mentioned a NA motor, if I remember correctly those are a little less bullet proof right? But it should be a direct swap if I reuse the top end of my existing motor?
 

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Unless you're about to put every mod under the sun into it, and make over 4-500whp, they hold together just fine.

My 2006 L26 N/A block has seen ~20k under a 330+whp GenV/XP cam build, THEN I installed an intercooled MP112 blower on it and sent it for another 20k+. It was one beer's decision away from getting put into my Regal last week, but I decided to keep going with the turbo L32 refresher. It'll end up in there at some point in the next year or so, though.
 
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