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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,
I have a 2005 3.8 series 3
Pretty sure it has a bad rod bearing

I have decided to rebuild this thing.

I'm not exactly sure which kit to buy.

I see master kitsch and basic kits.
Would you just order the simple kit and replace single parts if you need to?

Or do you tear it all down and assess before deciding?

Thank you
 

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Hello,
I have a 2005 3.8 series 3
Pretty sure it has a bad rod bearing

I have decided to rebuild this thing.

I'm not exactly sure which kit to buy.

I see master kitsch and basic kits.
Would you just order the simple kit and replace single parts if you need to?

Or do you tear it all down and assess before deciding?

Thank you
If you have a BAD rod bearing you also should check the crank shaft to be sure the crankshaft is still in good condition........ such as proper deminsions and no scoring on the crankshaft. Also, sometimes when this type of failure occurs, the connecting rod may no longer be "ROUND". This needs to be accurate so you don't do any more damage to the rods or crankshaft. Hope some of this helps......... mr goodwrench(Jake)............
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
If you have a BAD rod bearing you also should check the crank shaft to be sure the crankshaft is still in good condition........ such as proper deminsions and no scoring on the crankshaft. Also, sometimes when this type of failure occurs, the connecting rod may no longer be "ROUND". This needs to be accurate so you don't do any more damage to the rods or crankshaft. Hope some of this helps......... mr goodwrench(Jake)............
Thank you.
I will tear the thing down and have all the clearances etc verified.
 

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1998 GTP coupe. All stock and rust free. That will change soon.
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you may be better off finding a junkyard short block rather than tearing down and rebuilding. the 3800 gets finicky when you start taking apart the bottom end.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
you may be better off finding a junkyard short block rather than tearing down and rebuilding. the 3800 gets finicky when you start taking apart the bottom end.
Well, that is interesting.
In what way?

I'm really wanting to experience a rebuild and this is what I have to work with. The car was ours, we gave it to one of the kids and now I get it back.
Sentiment.
 

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$500-1,000 gets you an engine to drop in that's warrantied to run from a yard for a month or so (just enough to know it's good to go)...

About that price or more, plus tedious machine work by a shop that's not always building this engine configuration (95% of bottom end rebuilds are SBC/SBF/etc.), all to keep one random block of iron from Flint, Michigan instead if another block/heads still factory sealed from Flint... Not a big thing anyone here does themselves, for good reason.

Enjoy a day at the junkyard, or hop on car-part.com and select from the many around the country.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
$500-1,000 gets you an engine to drop in that's warrantied to run from a yard for a month or so (just enough to know it's good to go)...

About that price or more, plus tedious machine work by a shop that's not always building this engine configuration (95% of bottom end rebuilds are SBC/SBF/etc.), all to keep one random block of iron from Flint, Michigan instead if another block/heads still factory sealed from Flint... Not a big thing anyone here does themselves, for good reason.

Enjoy a day at the junkyard, or hop on car-part.com and select from the many around the country.
Ok, well I guess I asked and got the answer.
I keep getting the same answer remove n drop a used one.

I guess if I'm gonna rebuild something it could eventually be something cooler
 

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If you're doing an engine swap, you'll get to "enjoy" plenty of work on this one!

BTW, I practice what I preach. Case in point, messed up my turbo engine this spring, and found another Series 3 L32 on car-part with 67k, and immediately went to get it for swapping my upgrades into.

Happy hunting.
- Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Nice, that link is great there are some very low mileage engines close to me.
 
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