if the car is idling sometimes u can take a stethiscope to the snout to locate the noise. if its more in the snout ur lookin at coupler, into the casing bearings.
poor man's stethiscope (screwdriver) will work too
your hand...lol....seriously....its tight but, as long as you keep the coupler flat it will go on with a fair amount of squeezing/pushing. You could lube the or the nubs with some vasoline or s/c oil to get it to slide better. BTW, if you didn't pinpont the noise.....BEFORE the engine gets too hot....put yor ear right on the S/C where the snout meets the housing.
There are no dumb questions here. Maybe smart ass answers sometimes though
Even though it has tight tollerences, i was able to press mine on with my hand. You will have some left over SC oil on the gears and even though it smells really really really bad, you can use that for some lube, if you dare.
We rebuilt his snout, and installed a new ZZP coupler. He already had a ZZP coupler. Removed his fluid drain plug....and there was orange fluid on the enf of it. Didnt suck all that much fluid out, and what we did loooked like rusty water. I have heard this was caused by running the blower with not enough fluid. Clean everything up, put it all back together, and put new fluid in it...started it up...knocking still there.
We wipped off the rotors, because they had some K&N filter charger fluid on them, and on the rear of the rotors, towards the needle bearing mounts, the rotors were knocking together and they were shinny on a few spots where they were banging together. I have heard the rotors can go bad. The bearings are fine in the housing. We are replacing his rotors this Saturday as a matter of fact.
Adding grease in those needle bearings in the housing for the rotors is a good idea if your in there replacing the coupler anyway. Get you some Redline Brand synthetic grease...high temp. Awsome stuff to use. I would not use regular bearing grease...it will not hold up to the blower standards.
I have some pictures of what everything looked like when we took apart his car...I dont think I can post them off my desk top...I can email them to somebody if that can host/post for me. I got three to share.
I can host the pics. I went through the exact same thing a little over a month ago. I rebuilt my snout and the oil looked horrible, almost like orange paint.....smelled horrendous too! Anyway, my rattle still remained, and it sounded like it was coming from the TB side. When I took my snout off, I could feel a good bit of play in the rotor drive gears so I just bought a low milage blower from ed and am selling my casing and snout for parts.
wow! Looks like some water got in there and caused some rust that became suspended in the oil, not good. Im not surprised the rotors went bad, it was probably the bearings/seals between the gears and rotors themselves.
The reasion why its orange...rusty color is what happens when you dont have enough fluid in there. He had his blower recently done at a dealership, and they replaced his coupler with one he bought from ZZP. First ever dealership I have ever heard of do a aftermarket install. They prob. only put in one bottle of fluid...and boom...there you go...almost destroyed blower.
He has bought some used rotos that have been recoated, and we will be installing those into a new ported case. His snout was rebuilt by me, and that part will be reused.
There was some of that orange fluid on the inside of the case, where the rotors are. The fluid was going through the seals for the rotor shafts that the drive gears connect to. Not good. Rotors trashed...and luckly the wear didnt go onto the case, and fry the snout as well. He was lucky he wasnt buying a new blower.
Way to go..."that dealership" I would be doing some bitching if I was him.
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