3800Pro Forums banner
1 - 3 of 3 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello All,

I finally have my L36 in the garage, but I overlooked this bit: What thread pattern and size bolts should I be using for my engine stand mounting? I know they should be grade 8, but that's about it. I have the Harbor Freight 500 pound engine stand for reference.

Thanks for helping me fix my err, guys.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
1,036 Posts
The 3800 uses M12 coarse (x1.75, I believe). Just compare a stock one to a new one before buying.

Just sent this to "Jdlink" the other day when they asked about new bolts not feeling as snug as the originals...

"Some bolts may be sloppy, but just make sure you have a decent amount of threads engaged into the block at each of 4 points (~3/4-1"). I usually pull the guide dowel out from the hole near the starter, so the stand can use that one, and zip-tie it to the starter hole so I remember to reinstall it on the way back in.

Here's some shots of my 3800 bolt set, and the other is my LS4 currently mounted with M10's in similar fashion.




(Bolts are ~3.5" long, so probably 90mm... The washers space them back to not bottom out before tight, and the rear/right-most hole isn't threaded & uses a nut.)




See LS4 similarly mounted and spaced out, with zip-tied dowel pin after removing with vise grips."

They're spaced out because the next length shorter bolt commonly available at the store barely catches any threads in the block.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The 3800 uses M12 coarse (x1.75, I believe). Just compare a stock one to a new one before buying.

Just sent this to "Jdlink" the other day when they asked about new bolts not feeling as snug as the originals...

"Some bolts may be sloppy, but just make sure you have a decent amount of threads engaged into the block at each of 4 points (~3/4-1"). I usually pull the guide dowel out from the hole near the starter, so the stand can use that one, and zip-tie it to the starter hole so I remember to reinstall it on the way back in.

Here's some shots of my 3800 bolt set, and the other is my LS4 currently mounted with M10's in similar fashion.




(Bolts are ~3.5" long, so probably 90mm... The washers space them back to not bottom out before tight, and the rear/right-most hole isn't threaded & uses a nut.)




See LS4 similarly mounted and spaced out, with zip-tied dowel pin after removing with vise grips."

They're spaced out because the next length shorter bolt commonly available at the store barely catches any threads in the block.
The 3800 uses M12 coarse (x1.75, I believe). Just compare a stock one to a new one before buying.

Just sent this to "Jdlink" the other day when they asked about new bolts not feeling as snug as the originals...

"Some bolts may be sloppy, but just make sure you have a decent amount of threads engaged into the block at each of 4 points (~3/4-1"). I usually pull the guide dowel out from the hole near the starter, so the stand can use that one, and zip-tie it to the starter hole so I remember to reinstall it on the way back in.

Here's some shots of my 3800 bolt set, and the other is my LS4 currently mounted with M10's in similar fashion.




(Bolts are ~3.5" long, so probably 90mm... The washers space them back to not bottom out before tight, and the rear/right-most hole isn't threaded & uses a nut.)




See LS4 similarly mounted and spaced out, with zip-tied dowel pin after removing with vise grips."

They're spaced out because the next length shorter bolt commonly available at the store barely catches any threads in the block.

Thanks for the tip! Getting the bolts tomorrow.
 
1 - 3 of 3 Posts
Top