That's the 97/98 style, so your current MAF will drop right in. However, I haven't tried cutting the maf post like that, so I can't advise on how it will work for you. The main problem I see is that it's missing the plate that covers the back of the maf channel. It really needs to be there. The wires in the MAF sensor work by heating the element, then the computer times how long it takes for the element to cool. It measures the specific gravity of the air in this way. Having a free flowing channel passing over the wires like that will cool thelement too quickly. The computer will interpret this as a lean condition in relation to normal programmed perameters for incoming air vs engine speed, it will cause the long-term fuel conditions to go to their max values of 16.4%, and throw a lean code. If you were to look at your stock maf post from behind, you will see a flat metal plate covering the channel, which is open at the bottom. Air enters at the small opening in the front, and vaccum from the incoming air pulls it out of the bottom. It may work OK if you were to put a plate at the back of the channel; leaving the bottom open. However, it may not. From what I see, the screw holes are machined off, so you need to somehow make a mounting point for the backing plate. This particular TB can be converted to a 99+ style MAF, but not without some fairly major fabrication. I've converted a few of the older style TB's to newer mafs, but they never seem to work all that well, and I've since discontined doing it.
