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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys
This is my first time tackling a job like this, and i'm not sure what I should do here. Trying to fix an oil leak I went ahead and swapped my valve cover gaskets, and now working on the intake. Pulled the lower intake off and started cleaning all the gunk, and there's some bad pitting on this thing. See pics below.
Should I replace it or try to seal the gaps and cross my fingers?
Thanks guys
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I just did the same job.I personally would not try to reuse that lower,as it appears to be eroded badly.Even into the gasket sealing area as well.
 

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It's just a stagnant area where coolant rests against that square patch. You'll notice the heads have coolant ports at both squares, so any version of a 3800 LIM will flow coolant through them.

Hit the surface with a wire brush, scotchbrite pad, etc. and it'll be ready to go. If this is your first venture into a used engine, try not to freak out that chemicals and corrosion are a feature that emerge.
 

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If you want, fill that region with some RTV or JBweld (file/sand flat after). The rubber on the gasket will fill alot if gaps, but extra help wouldn't hurt (that's the point of it in the gasket).
 

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Hey guys
This is my first time tackling a job like this, and i'm not sure what I should do here. Trying to fix an oil leak I went ahead and swapped my valve cover gaskets, and now working on the intake. Pulled the lower intake off and started cleaning all the gunk, and there's some bad pitting on this thing. See pics below.
Should I replace it or try to seal the gaps and cross my fingers?
Thanks guys View attachment 11686 View attachment 11687 View attachment 11688
I just did the same job.I personally would not try to reuse that lower,as it appears to be eroded badly.Even into the gasket sealing area as well.
Well, there's probably a few different ways to stop that erossion. From what I have seen in days gone by, you can repair that errosion. I personally would clean all the parts and errossion areas so there is no left over corroded areas. Once this is 100% clean, I would use a good EPOXY CEMENT to fill the corroded areas with a good EPOXY SEALER and let it cure 100%. After a few days or so, you can carefully smooth the EPOXIED AREAS back to a smooth consistant surface. That should give you a good clean base to seal up the needed areas. Once this is done and the EPOXY IS 100% CURED, YOU SHOULD BE ABLE TO REINSTAL THE INTAKE. During reinstalling intake us a good HIGH TEMP SEALER LIKE ZEP and allow that to cure for a couple of days. This process should do the FIX. PS, don't rush this job so you can allow PLENTY OF CURING TIME FOR THE EPOXY AND THE ZEP SEALER. After all is re assembled, I would allow another few days to be sure all is cure and dry. THAT SHOULD TAKE CARE OF THE JOB. PS, do not rush the job so there will be plenty of curing time..... Jake
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for the help guys, I finished the job a couple days ago and pretty much did exactly what mr goodwrench said, minus the waiting part... Hopefully the epoxy had enough time to cure, directions say 24 hrs to cure and I gave it 48 before starting it up. I also put some of "the right stuff" in that area aswell as the corners, so we'll see.
While I was watching under my hood with the car idling I did notice my tensioner bouncing around when the A/C is on, causing this loud knocking sound. I'm thinking my tensioner is bad... My question is, can I replace the tensioner & pulley or do I need to swap the whole bracket where the alt sits? I'm asking because my buddy (also owns a 2002 GT) told me I needed to replace the whole unit, but I saw a gates tensioner,pulley & belt for sale on carparts.com for $83 that supposedly fit my GT.
 

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The tensioner typically is not meant to be removed from the bracket.

For a short-term, less expensive option: You can try a tighter/fresh belt, or running a 3.5" pulley on the tensioner, instead of the original 3.0", to draw in some slack, since it seems to have extra slop in the belt. That diameter pulley comes stock on the s/c idlers, and I will commonly switch them to the tensioner for better belt wrap on M90's, along with other tricks to get better tension without spending on gimmick parts.
 
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