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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey all this is where I plan to update my build on my 2000 LeSabre. I plan on doing a complete makeover.
Here are my current plans.
Engine upgrades
Stage 1

  • PCM
  • CAI-Done
  • Zzp performance plug wires and coil
Stage 2
  • Front Power Log
  • Upgrade Exhaust Size 2.75 inches
  • High Flow Cat Converter
  • Custom Cat Back Exhaust
Stage 3
  • L67 Upper Swap
  • Heads - Lower and Upper Intake manifold w/machine shop.
  • Valvetrain Overhaul
  • ZZP GT Cam
  • Double chain timing chain
Stage 4
To be continued…. On performance mods.

Suspension/Brakes

  • Front Struts FE3 AC Delco Part Number#22064781 (not 100% this fit)
  • Front Coil Moog Constant Rate Part#22133030FKJ
  • Front and Back Sway Bar End Links Temporary Moog End Links K700528 (6 bucks each on Amazon, got them used new for 2 bucks each. Planned permanent replacement Energy Suspension 9.8120R
  • Sway Bar Bushing Front Energy Suspension 9.5166R and Back Energy Suspension 9.5158R (I have read these well fit but I'm not 100% sure. When I purchase these I'll report back what I had to do to make them work.)
  • Upgrade 19mm Rear Sway Bar to 22mm if F41 Rear Sway bar is not 22mm - Donor Bonneville GXP
  • Rear Air Struts FE5 AC Delco Part# 540643
  • Rear Coils Variable Rate AC Delco Part#19186012
  • F Body Dual Caliber Pistons W/larger rotor
  • Drilled and Slotted Rotor
  • Ceramic Brake Pads
  • 18 Inch wheels
I'm in the process of replacing a lot of failing suspension components due to the vehicle sitting for so long but I plan to first replace the failing components from the items listed above including items not on this list and then when the suspension upgrade/replacements are done I will then move on to the rest of the listed suspension upgrades.
Transmission
In regards to the transmission I plan on doing a complete rebuild and upgrading certain components such as a bigger torque converter, an HD conversion, shift kit, a quality dedicated transmission fluid cooler, shift kit, upgraded shaft/sun gear, and using either Amsoil or Royal Purple transmission fluid.
Cosmetic mods
Retrofit projection headlights with LED switchbacks.
Redesign of rear brake lights.
Im sure there is more that's going to be added to this.
Thoughts.... Ideas..... Constrictive Feed Back??? Hit me with it, I know I don't know it all. Lend me any of ye knowledge good or bad.
LOL seriously though thanks for reading and if you feel like it tell me how stupid I am LOL.

First Edit: 12/05/2021 change the title and redesigned the first stages I plan to take on my journey.
Second Edit 1/6/2022 added Suspension info and other details
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
First replacement on the suspension was for the Monroe max air shocks for the rear of the vehicle.
I also have most of the parts I need for the cold air intake and custom air box.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I also had to replace the brake line that Run's from behind the passenger side tire to the rear driver side tire. It was pretty painless to replace except for threading it around all that junk to connect it.
Also had to replace the driver side lines from the brake reservoir to the ABS module and let me tell you that was a pain in the butt.

I couldn't get one of the flanges tighten down on the ABS module tight enough to where it wouldn't leak some. I was even using flare and it would get to a point where even those would slip off and you couldn't fit vise grips down there unless you removed the radiator fan. And that was a right down pain to get out and then put back in but hey I got it.

I got prefab brake lines from my local junkyard and they were in really good condition and for six bucks a pop I ain't complaining. I lightly hand sanded the brake lines then clean them and painted them with a rust protectant so they will last longer hopefully. I know that most likely they rusted out from the inside because of how long it's set.
 

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Brake lines, and fuel lines for that matter, are tough to keep happy after they get this old, especially on exposed cars in 4 season weather (lost my GTP's underbody to that :cautious:... kept the engine/trans, though :sneaky:).

If you continue having issues, NAPA is the best store I've found for lines with the fittings pre-made. You'll want to get familiar with their terminology and sizing involved (Japanese, European, etc.) depending on the metric/english threads and bubble/inverted flare styles you're dealing with at each connection. I wound up re-running all new lines from the ABS to the rear calipers on my GTP for it's last couple years, due to rusting through at some bends/clamps/connections.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Oh I've got a good source of cheap brake lines that are OEM replacement all I have to do is pull them out. As I've done that when I replace them I clean them so I can spray them down with a rust protectant.
My underside have some decent surface rust but still structurally sound guess I'm lucky cuz the car sat for a long time.
I plan on getting rid of the rust with my grinder, wire brush, and or a chemical rust converter solution and then spraying everything with something like rhino lining or flex seal. I haven't used flex seal what's my understanding it puts a rubberized coating down and maybe that'll be the way I go on rear body panels and used a better protectant on the frame.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Right now I'm dealing with a p1810 error. I'm in the process of replacing the TPS manifold switch valve thingamajigger. I wish it was in the area where the drain pan is like on the 4l60e but nope got to tear out the driver side to get to it in the side pan. But hey now everything is loose and up and broke free on the driver side.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I have to say all in all working on the transmission from the driver side wheel well was a pretty easy job, time consuming but definitely doable with just a basic mechanic tool set (sockets, wrenches, ratchets). You would also need a 34 mm socket for the axle nut and a breaker bar as well as a t40 for the bottom bolts.
I would say if you had to buy all the tools it'd be less than a hundred bucks. A Walmart hyper tough $20 mechanics tool set,$25 breaker bar from harbor freight, a set of wobbly bits from harbor freight 5 to 10 bucks, 34 mm socket $10 from Amazon, and you can get a set of the t-bits for less than $10 on Amazon. Oh and I forgot some ratchet straps to hold the rack and pinion up when you drop the subframe and you can get those for about 10 bucks at Walmart.
I only had trouble in two places, the two bolts for the rack and pinion holding it to the cradle, and needing to rent a slide hammer to get the axle out. I tried everything to get that axle out and ended up separating it. I tried pry bars Flathead screwdrivers ratchet straps everything I think of I couldn't get it second try with a slide hammer pops right out. I got a loaner from O'Reilly's for 80 bucks deposit.
So for between 80 to $100 for tools and about $30 for the part and a decent amount of time for cussing you can fix the 1810 error code for under $150 yourself versus 1,000 at a shop.
it took me about 3 to 4 days to fix it. Now that's not 3 to 4 days of working hours every day. I'd work an hour or two one day an hour to the next so I wouldn't get frustrated by pressuring myself to get it done as quick as possible. I would say this job is doable in a single day.
 

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Glad you made progress.

For axles, you just need a flat 8-10" pry bar with 90deg bend at one end (I have a 2pc set from HF). Apply pressure between the trans and the back of the inner axle stub on left side (driver's). Give the lever a pop or two with a hammer in the direction you're prying, and the c-clip on the splines will release from the output shaft (left), or the diff (right). You can actually get a straight shot at the right axle from underneath with a long extension, to give it a tap out of the diff. Pulling on them with anything isn't appropriate, since they're meant to slip in & out everywhere but that inner stub, to account for all the movement in the suspension/steering... That's why you separated the boot or whatever it was. I know they make specialty ends for slide hammer for the tight spots, but we're talking normal tools, and I've been successful with them hundreds of times, including last week.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I wish Dave nothing worked none of my pry bars with different angles ratchet straps flatheads I tried everything for over 2 hours before it just got too damn cold outside.
Side note I'm doing all this work outside on dirt because I don't have a garage nor a driveway. But I have an area that I set up with concrete that is level to be able to Jack the car up on and have front and back jack stands on it and don't got to worry about it tipping.
I went to O'Reilly's and got a slide hammer with the front wheel drive CV axle adapter and paid a deposit of 80 bucks and pop the axle out in under 2 minutes and took it back and got my 80 bucks back definitely worth it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Oh I know not to pull on it I was trying to shimmy it at the metal bell housing but has the connecting shaft on it and I slipped and unintentionally grabbed the axle in the middle as I tumbled backwards and with this fat man falling backwards that axle stood no chance of staying together. It was an easy fix to put it back together took me all 2 minutes and I was just that easy to get all that grease off of me.
 

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Haha, we've all been there. Was out in the cold working on mine all last night, too. Just be sure to plan as far ahead as possible, and take a few safety measures. The right tools for the job and some comfort items (gloves, cushion, etc.) make a difference as you do more.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Yeah I use a blanket. I'm just waiting for taxes to hit I'm really going to dive into this build. I figured I can get all the parts needed for the l67 topswap for under a grand and that includes cylinder heads lower intake supercharger and throttle body from the junkyard, doesn't include the cost for machine work on the cylinder heads lower intake and porting the charger. It does include new hydraulic lifters oversized valves, valve springs, hydraulic rocker arms, basically performance aftermarket valve train. Also includes bigger fuel injectors and the PCM tune.
Can't wait to see the power gains after doing this, then later down the road I can delete the supercharger and maybe do a twin turbo build.
The only other things I need to get for the l67 top swap are supporting mods in some areas. Things like dual piston brakes, upgrading the transmission with an HD differential and transgo shift kit, aftermarket transmission cooler, and maybe even reinforcing the fourth gear. Not part of the build but basic maintenance I plan on replacing my fuel lines because they are rusting pretty good and I'm going to go with a larger size fuel line.
 
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