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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Yes, my 60' was horrible coming oin at 2.3 sec.

Track prep consisted of Torco additive, 3.0 (vs. 3.3 on the street), backseats and trunk stuff removed, and fronts at 23 psi rears at 40 pisi.

This was also only one of three runs, with the first run being [email protected] (jr. dragster had a busted water pump or something the run before, they found taht out with me :rolleyes: )

The input I am looking for is shall I install
A: GenII LSD and a shift kit
B: Full suspension (Koni's, springs, and ploy bushings)
C: Make a grand selling the car as is and buy a Lightning (then modding it with the $1000 extra)
D: Forget about it and goto bed

You be the judge.
*Disclaimer, I realize that this is a 3800 forum, but you gotta admit that the Lightning is badass and would be fun :eek:

-Doc
 

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My LSD was probably the most helpful mod I've done in regards to my 1/4 mile time. Every .1 you drop off the 60 is .2 off the 1/4. LSD and and some tires even with a 2.0 60 would drop you an easy .5 off the 1/4.
 

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Go A and B but if you have to, Go A then B. you will be amaized at how much you can shave off.
 

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If that 23psi is on street tires, you're shooting yourself in the foot at the track. You should be at 28-29 psi, 2 foot it at the line in 2nd, and launch at about 1800 to 2000 rpm. I have no LSD and consistantly pull 1.9 to 2.0 60's. 3 tenths on the bottom are going to get you in the 13.2/.3 range with those traps easy.
 

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I ran my RSAs on 24 psi and pulled many 1.9s. Recomended driving preasure was 30psi.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Starting in 2nd doesn't slow you down any?

Scott, when I do the LSD and shift kit, I will have to get a new input shaft as how I have a 97, correct?

Edit: BTW, I run BFG Traction T/A's all around, tread being at about 70-75%
 

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Merc said:
I ran my RSAs on 24 psi and pulled many 1.9s. Recomended driving preasure was 30psi.
I've heard other people say this, but it just doesn't make sense to me. Anytime I dropped my tires to 27 or less psi, they would cup. At the track, I do a burnout and check the tires with the IR thermometer. I get the most even temps across the tire at 28-29 psi, if they are to low, the center of the tire is too cold. I bought my car used, so I never had RSA's on it. I can possibly see the stock RSA's having the weaker "factory equipped" sidewall cotributing to this though.

Note the attachments on tire inflation, showing underinflation gives a smaller contact patch. Normal psi was 32, underinflated was 25psi. Both tires were run through a flourescent solution at a simulated 60mph.
 

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See I woudlnt do a burnout on my RSAs. I woudl chirp them just to clean them off, but never go through teh waterbox or burnout.
 

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Ron Vogel said:
I've heard other people say this, but it just doesn't make sense to me. Anytime I dropped my tires to 27 or less psi, they would cup. At the track, I do a burnout and check the tires with the IR thermometer. I get the most even temps across the tire at 28-29 psi, if they are to low, the center of the tire is too cold. I bought my car used, so I never had RSA's on it. I can possibly see the stock RSA's having the weaker "factory equipped" sidewall cotributing to this though.
Your not supposed to do a "burnout" with street tires anyway. Spin em to clean them up then go. The less air the larger the contact patch. Also what other mods do you have? You may have been killing yourself with kr. .3 in a pulley size is alot for just torco.
 

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The compound that street tires are made out of versus drag radials and slicks is totally different and street tires should not be heated up or your worse off. Just like anything else, inflation appears to have its differences in opinion. My suggestion is to try all the variations until you find what works for you and the tire that you are running. I know form my personal experience I ran 22psi in my RSA's at Norwalk last year and pulled a 1.9 60' so I believe in running lower psi. So what it come down to is run it various ways and try different things and see what works for ya.

It is no different than lauches or driving, everyone has their way and they differ. Things is there is NO one way that is sure proof, as every car and setup reacts differently. The more you can run your car the better off you will be...you will learn what works and what does not.

Hang in there and take everyones suggestions and try 'em out and hope that one or some of the work out for ya! ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks guys....

I have a scanner and see about 4-7* of KR w/ out the Torco, w// I see none. I only run the 3.0" at the track and a 3.3" on the street. Unfortunately for me one of my pulley bolts is stripped so I am now running my 3.0" all the time. :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I'd like to reclariy and update.

I see no knock with the 3.3", so I just wanted to clarify that I'm not an idiot running around with seven degrees of knock all the time. I'm not that guy. :eek:


I went to the track tonight and it was twenty degrees or so warmer, running about 1 mph slower with the same sixty. My best for the night was a 2.164 @ 25 psi on each front tire, resulting in a [email protected] (xx=I can't find the slip right now and I'm too tired to go find it :) )

No knock on every run but the first and second, out of about five runs. I'm ready for more mods, it's just a shame because all the tracks have concluded their season...

-Doc
 

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Dr.Phat said:
Starting in 2nd doesn't slow you down any?

Scott, when I do the LSD and shift kit, I will have to get a new input shaft as how I have a 97, correct?

Edit: BTW, I run BFG Traction T/A's all around, tread being at about 70-75%
Youll need a 98+ OUTPUT shaft to use the LSD, not the input shaft.

The 98+ is different somehow and the 97 wont work.

Mat
 
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