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My cars cap says to use 5w-30, my friends gtp says 10w-30. We both have the same motor, 3800 series II. What are you guys running in your car??
 

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was running 10w 30 but now using rotella to cushine my blow rob bearings lmao but there is a huge thread on here about oil
 

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I run Royal Purple 5w 30 and have been for years !!!!
 

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I thought the 04 monte and regal have a hybrid series II/III. The 04s have a l32 bottom end with a Gen III blower on it whereas the 05 have a l32 bottom to top. The l32's call for 5w-30 and l67s call for 10w-30...Anyone clarify this?
 

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From what I have seen, ALL 3800's from day 1 have been 10W30, so the L32's are "odd"....

But I run 5W40 Rotella T synthetic only. I might try Royal Purple, I have so much fuel economy data on the car, so if it really does make any diff, I will see it clearly.

I thought the 04 monte and regal have a hybrid series II/III. The 04s have a l32 bottom end with a Gen III blower on it whereas the 05 have a l32 bottom to top. The l32's call for 5w-30 and l67s call for 10w-30...Anyone clarify this?
 

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Considering where I live, in this weather, 0W or 5W oils are best....

It is supposed to get down sub zero tonight.....And it is windy too...

I've always used 5W30. It flows better that 10W30.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I've never heard of this before. All the research I've come up with shows its just an l67. But that would explain the oil difference.
 

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Lets make it really simple.........

5W30 in winter unless you live in Scotsdale or San Diego(if you are in Alaska or a colder part of Canada a 0W30 would be prudent...oil flow at cold temps is CRITICAL)

10W30 in summer

Jake L.
 

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So the 15W40 in the truck right now when it got to -11F this morning is bad? :)



Lets make it really simple.........

5W30 in winter unless you live in Scotsdale or San Diego(if you are in Alaska or a colder part of Canada a 0W30 would be prudent...oil flow at cold temps is CRITICAL)

10W30 in summer

Jake L.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I do live in Texas, it barley gets below freezing when it "snows" here.
 

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I apologize for the thread jack. Does anyone here have any real hands on proof that Rotella syn is more effective than our normal syn oils? Not looking for empirical rocket scientist data but just someone with actual experience with the pros and cons of Rotella.
Btw Billy, hows the cold treating you nowadays?
 

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Just some magazine interview with Rotella T engineer, high perf Pontiac or HotRod/CarCraft, can't recall which.

I'll see what I can find.

There is a reason that car oils aren't approved at ALL for diesels.

The higher levels of ZDDP are good for antiwear, but bad for Cat converters, so the car oils are dropping the levels more and more, the diesel's aren't at near the rate. They need the higher antiwear properties.

Even cam companies are recommending diesel oils on flat tappet cams to help stave off lifter/cam wear. The last paragraph is the one that is why I run Rotella T Synthetic.

Edit: http://www.highperformancepontiac.com/tech/hppp_0606_understanding_motor_oil/index.html
Edit: http://www.highperformancepontiac.com/tech/hppp_0802_pontiac_performance_engine_oil/index.html

Juggling The Truth About Today's Oil - Engine Oil Tech

Shell Rotella T
Designed for the harsh environment within a diesel engine, Shell ROTELLA T has aptly earned the reputation as a high-quality, maximum-protection lubricant. With the reformulation of gasoline-engine oil a few years ago, many hobbyists with flat-tappet camshaft engines have found salvation in commercial-grade oils like ROTELLA T, which have typically maintained high levels of the desirable anti-wear additives.
Oil Formulation And Flat Tappet Cams Shell Rotella T
Produced by Shell, commercial-grade...

read full caption
Oil Formulation And Flat Tappet Cams Shell Rotella T
Produced by Shell, commercial-grade ROTELLA T has been a popular off-the-shelf choice for flat-tappet camshaft engines, but rumors of recent reformulation have sent hobbyists scurrying for options. The truth is that the current API CJ-4 category rating offers enhanced levels of anti-wear protection and, according to Shell, ROTELLA T was designed with flat-tappet camshaft protection in mind.

The '07 model year brought on many changes for diesel engines. Among them was an exhaust system catalyst, and another oil classification standard-CJ-4. One would assume from past events that the addition of said exhaust catalyst would ultimately lead to ZDDP reduction, but Shell's OEM Technical Service Manager, Stede Granger, says otherwise.

High Performance Pontiac: You're likely aware that ROTELLA T is used by many automotive hobbyists with flat-tappet camshafts. Are there any negative effects when using commercial-grade oil in gasoline engines?
Stede Granger: Assuming we're speaking about older gasoline engines that are no longer under warranty, and emissions aren't a concern, there are no major negative effects when using ROTELLA T. In fact, it carries an API S-series category rating. The only possible concern I see is viscosity-15W-40 will not circulate as quickly during initial start-up in extremely cold climates as a lesser viscosity, and our 5W-40 synthetic is then an option.

HPP: We've heard that the current CJ-4 category rating has significantly reformulated diesel oil for 2007. Can you elaborate on that?
SG: Most diesel engines for 2007 utilize an EGR system, an exhaust catalyst, and a Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF) to help lower emissions, and the new CJ-4 category is designed to ensure that there are no detrimental effects to this equipment, maximizing its service life.

HPP: Does the addition of an exhaust catalyst mean a drastic reduction of the high-pressure wear additives found in ROTELLA T oil?
SG: The exhaust catalyst found on diesel engines isn't the same as that of a typical passenger-car application, so we're able to retain high ZDDP levels. The API specification change to CJ-4 for 2007 has resulted in moderate zinc reduction from about 1,400 ppm to 1,200 ppm. And even at these slightly decreased levels, ROTELLA T 15W-40 conventional and 5W-40 synthetic still contain three to five times the amount of the desirable anti-wear additives as some current gasoline-engine oils.

HPP: Is there any chance your company could reformulate ROTELLA T in the near future, and drastically reduce its high-zinc content?
SG: Historically speaking, commercial-grade oil classification changes occur every two to four years, but the new CJ-4 category offers the best all-around protection of any previous rating. So I feel there's little reason for any immediate change, and expect to see it around for at least a few years.

A point to remember is that zinc not only protects flat-tappet camshafts against wear, but also any high-pressure metallic surface that relies on pressurized oil for lubrication, such as the piston rings, cylinder walls, and rocker arms/pushrods. When oil can't carry the load, zinc steps up and creates a chemical barrier, and the high levels of zinc in commercial-grade oil contribute to the fact that some diesel engines run a million miles or more. I don't see us reducing the zinc content in ROTELLA T unless an organization like API imposes a lesser chemical limit on a subsequent category.


I apologize for the thread jack. Does anyone here have any real hands on proof that Rotella syn is more effective than our normal syn oils? Not looking for empirical rocket scientist data but just someone with actual experience with the pros and cons of Rotella.
Btw Billy, hows the cold treating you nowadays?
 

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With many advances in Oil technologies, its always imparative to remember, keep your prognosis of your own oil changes, at bay. It seems that the statement, "Change your oil every 3,000 miles!" is still very alive now because of better petroleums. I figured, my average oil-change interval is around 1,400 to 2000 miles....even with technology. Yes, its a very expensive option, but clean quality oil is better than dirty quality oil! So, in short, run the best viscosity for the season AND change frequently, for longevity!
 

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VERY expensive, I have >60k miles I have driven on my 3800 since I bought it in May 2008. That is like changing oil every week and a half to 2 weeks!

I use 2x the OLM and use the Rotella T, it is very clean inside still. No issues, I have right at 250k on my 94 Fleetwood, doesn't burn a drop, runs great still. Same deal with it, only it saw either 15W40 if I was bucks down and changed per OLM or 2x OLM if I had synthetic in. IT always ran me up to around 7000 miles on oil changes.

Remember, oil changes in normal conditions (which most people drive) was for many many years, 7500 miles and change filter every other oil change.... But filters are much smaller now.....

With many advances in Oil technologies, its always imparative to keep your prognosis of your own oil changes, at bay. It seems that the statment, "Change your oil every 3,000 miles!" is still very alive now because of better petroleums. I figured my average oil-change interval is around 1,400 to 2000 miles....even with technology. Yes, its a very expensive option, but clean quality oil is better than dirty quality oil!
 

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Advances in filter media and design, has altered this as well. Unfortunately, we can only afford to do what we can. Do, what you must do, to support and keep your engine running clean and strong!
 

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I run it as long as I can, and if I get ahold of the Amsoil Bypass filter one of these days, go years on oil changes.

I don't like the short interval oil changes, it puts too much oil in the waste oil dumping, whereever it goes whatever happens to it, it must be delt with. So for the sake of that, I try hard to run as long as I can without risk of damage.

Advances in filter media and design, has altered this as well. Unfortunately, we can only afford to do what we can. Do, what you must do, to support and keep your engine running clean and strong!
 

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I understand. Im hard on my engine. I keep it very clean!
 

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:) I am generally not abusive to mine. It has to be a dead nuts reliable machine for me.

I understand. Im hard on my engine. I keep it very clean!
 
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