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Discussion Starter #1
i have a 98 gp gt and after racing it a couple times this summer i seen a slight puddle on my garage floor every time i took my car out and i just started taking the pan off and bought a new gasket because its leaking on the back of the motor towards the tranny. and I have it all loose but it wont budge on coming out... ive got the 2 motor mounts off and jacked the motor up a bit and still didnt help... any way of getting it off with out having to undo the tranny? knowing me i missed somthing that you would know of what to do right away thanks
 

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Here this is from Alldata.com. Hopefully it helps, personally I have never replaced the gasket with the engine in the car.

-Remove the engine mount struts from the engine.
-Remove the drive belt.
-Engine Support Fixture. IMPORTANT: Do not raise the engine.
-Raise and suitably support the vehicle.
-Is also says to disconnec the Cat. but I am pretty sure you don't have to
-Remove the right front tire and wheel. Refer to Wheel Removal in Wheels and Tires.
-Remove the right engine splash shield.
-Drain the engine oil.
-Remove the oil filter
-Remove the A/C compressor bracket bolts. Reposition and secure the A/C compressor.
-Disconnect the power steering oil cooler pipe brackets from the frame.
-Remove the engine mount bracket bolts from the engine.
-Remove the lower engine mount nuts.
-Remove the torque converter cover.
-Disconnect the oil level sensor wiring harness connector
-Remove the oil level sensor. NOTICE: Remove the oil level sensor, located in the oil pan, before the oil pan is removed. The sensor may be damaged -if the oil pan is removed first.
-Lower the vehicle.
-Use the J 28467-B in order to raise the engine for access.
-Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Vehicle Lifting.
-Suitably support the frame. Loosen the left side frame bolts. Remove the right side frame bolts. Lower the frame for access.
-Remove the engine mount and the engine mount bracket.
-Remove the oil pan retaining bolts.
-Lower the oil pan.
-Remove the oil pan.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE

NOTICE: Install the oil level sensor, located in the oil pan, after the oil pan is installed. The sensor may be damaged if the oil level sensor is installed first. Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions


And some torque specs
- oil pump pipe and screen bolts to 15 Nm (11 ft. lbs.)
-oil pan bolts to 14 Nm (125 inch lbs)
-lower engine mount nuts to 47 Nm (35 ft. lbs.)
-oil level sensor to 20 Nm (15 ft. lbs.)
-
 

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I replaced the one in my wifes regal. I pulled the engine out, it was very easy to do on the stand. I also replaced a few other parts too. You may want to check to make sure it is not the rear main seal. I changed it along with the oil pan gasket just to make sure. It no longer leaks. Of course after I got the engine back in, the water pump went out.


Randy
 

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In addition to all the other items, you'll need to put a jack under the tranny pan and lift it up. I had done all the required items, and it still wouldn't come out until I lifted the tranny by the pan. It would hit on the lower edge of the transmission and the engine cradle.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
what does it mean Suitably support the frame....loosen left side frame bolts remove right side frame bolts. lower the frame for access....what frame? the actual undercarage mount bolts the hold the motor and trans? I wish i would have left it alone!!!!
 

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I just really read that list. You don't have to loosen or drop the sub frame at all. You will have to lift the engine from the top. I built a "T" frame that sits on the strut towers and the radiator support on the top and lifts the engine a good 3-4". If you don't have the means for this, I'd suggest putting it back together for now and build one or buy one or borrow one. I can give you pics and dimensions to build one yourself. It's out of 2X4's and plywood. You need to lift the engine up, which requires unbolting the down pipe. you need to remove the lower engine mount and bracket, which requires unbolting the AC compressor and removing the tranny to engine bracket and right axle housing to get to 1 bolt for the engine mount bracket. However, you MIGHT be able to remove the bolt without removing the housing. I couldn't. Once the engine is free, you'll lift it up several inches, but the pan still won't come out, it'll hit the sub frame. This is where you lift the tranny up about 1-2 inches, and the pan will come right out. Took me all of 7-8 hours, and I have all the right tools. But I'm also 50 and didn't rush. Your results may differ.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
or i could just put the pan back on tighten everything back up and let it drip...and until i have all the stuff to build my new motor....im not gonna mess with this one anymore...a few more bolts and i could have this motor out by the way everyone is talking.
 

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Well, it's not that severe, but it's time consuming.
 

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And GM recommends putting silicone on both sides of the gasket. Trust me, do it and use the black "right stuff" silicone. Best on the market by far.
 

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i have a 98 gp gt and after racing it a couple times this summer i seen a slight puddle on my garage floor every time i took my car out and i just started taking the pan off and bought a new gasket because its leaking on the back of the motor towards the tranny. and I have it all loose but it wont budge on coming out... ive got the 2 motor mounts off and jacked the motor up a bit and still didnt help... any way of getting it off with out having to undo the tranny? knowing me i missed somthing that you would know of what to do right away thanks
 

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It's been ~13.5 yrs... I think they got around to it... or threw it out. :sneaky:
 
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