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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I've read using an oil filter for a 1998 Chevy Blazer is possible on a 3800 and since its longer it give better filtration. Is this true. Anything to worry about? Otherwise what filters do you use?
 

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This is true, and I have been using that filter from the start... the brand I have been using is Purolator Pure One. suppose to be a pretty good filter, and is only about 5 bucks around me. hths...

steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
So no need to worry about the spring in the filter being too tight or anything? In any case I've heard Bosch are pretty good filters, it's what my VW friend uses.
 

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magilson said:
So no need to worry about the spring in the filter being too tight or anything?
There is a spring in the filter? What does it do?

i have used the larger filter for well over 40K miles and i have no problems. I am using the Mobil 1 filter size M-201
 

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Couple of facts to share with you...I use Fram filters, because they offer less filtration. Sound wierd? The filter has a bypass spring to allow oil to bypass the filter when it can't flow enough. If you were to use a small micron filter with the stock filter size, most of the time oil will bypass the filter, and it won't filter anything. It's always best to use the biggest filter possible, so the filter media is large as possible, where it won't impede flow. As the filter is in there for a while it will grab smaller and smaller particles. I go 5K on my oil changes so I always use synthetic and Fram filters. Been good so far. I've used K & N oil filters in the past, and they are nice...but overkill for most. Best to stick with Fram or AC Delco, and definately use the truck one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The spring is in there to let oil bypass if the filter is clogged or on cold start when the oil is too thick to push through the filter. As far as Fram filters go, I'm not so sure your logic holds true. No doubt I can see what you mean. Yes your filter will allow more particles through the actual filter and yes the bypass valve may be open less but look at it this way. My understanding is that once the oil is up to temp it's thin. If you change your oil hot like me, i'm too impatient to let it cool, then you can see how thin it is. You may be right that your fram will start filtering sooner but when your car and my car get up to temp my car will have (in theory now, don't jump on me for this) cleaner oil due to a better filter. So in the winter according to your theory your filter will begin filtering sooner than mine, but then again my oil should be cleaner to begin with. In the summer I'm set already with thinner oil and better filtration.
 

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I can't jump on you for it, it's only speculation on my part until I were to have two engines side by-side with the same stuff on them and do a couple of thousand mile oil analysis. I think for the most part, the oil filtration mystery will remain a mystery. Just have to use common sense that a bigger filter and better flow would be best.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I suppose I agree with that. What do you think adding an INTENSE oil pressure kit would do, going from 50-55 at load to 80-85 at load? Then a Fram might actually help if you had a secondary filtration system. Either way it's going to slam that little bypass valve all the way open.
 

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I have the oil preasure kit on my car since April. i like it.
 

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Man, I'm going to look like an asshole on this one...but here goes!

At idle, it is reccommended 10psi of oil pressure, and 10 psi for every 1000 rpms. I would play with oil viscosity first, then go to a high pressure kit.

BTW, this opens up a whole can of worms!

The fashion at one time with high HP motors was to put in a high pressure pump, the leading edge racers started observing problems with this set-up, and all turned to other means eventually utilizing a large volume, low pressure pump. Main factors were the high pressure kits were foaming the oil, creating tons of windage (which also leads to foaming the oil), and this is true on both high volume, and high pressure; sucking the oil pan dry during a run without a higher than stock capacity oil pan, plus the extra HP it takes to run the oil pump. If you have an oil pressure guage and are seeing 55-60psi, it should be more than sufficient to run up to 6000rpm, if you've changed shift points, you may first want to step up to the next step in viscosity, or a straight weight racing oil for the track first. If you were going into the motor, there are ways to increase pressure in the block to protect the mains, and a good performance machine shop can offer good advice on this. I'm not trying to slam Intense on this or anything, but the oil pressure kit to me is an old school, stop gap quick fix. The stock oiling system should be more than sufficent for most people.
 

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Don't use Fram filters, their construction is terrible. Ron did you know that Fram filters are among the MOST restrictive? The least would be a Purolator or Hastings. ;)


AC delco is also more restrictive, but filter's very well.
 

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This was several years ago, but I had a part-time job at Trak Auto. Had a class where they cut apart several different filters, and the Fram had the most pleats. They may have changed things since then, but I've always used Frams because of that.
 

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I use Hastings or WIX's. Delcos are good too. Anther thing about oil filters is some don't seal or hold back the weight of the oil up stream. So when the car sits any oil in the gallierys than can drain back thu the filter will. And the better filters hold backflow better w/ a check valve in them. To help on dry starts.
Ron cut open a fram, They suck now. They use a bent piece of spring steel to push the filter to the top gasket, over a real spring. And use a cardboard cutout profile, to seperate the oil between going tho the filter and not.

But like fuel, more pressure dosn't always mean more volume.
 

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My oil filter study

Check this out, the filter cut apart is the recomended one for our cars. Fram has had less area in every test that I've ever seen.

-T
 

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Good write up...Looks like I'm going to use something different!

This should be a sticky...
 

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i use only K&N filters and Mobile 1 15W50 oil

i should get the biger filter next time though that way i can use a hole 5Q lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Wow, 15W50, good lord. Is there a reason you want such heavy oil in there? In any case I have not found that I need the full 5 Qt's with this filter. In fact many people fill their pan with too much oil. You shouldn't be filling to the full line, only half way between it and add a quart. I've heard it's a common misconception but filling it to the full line is the absolute max the manufacturer wants you to and in fact the oil is a little too close to the crank and arms and may slosh too much if close to the full line. Now I only just recently heard this, is this true? Has anyone heard anything similar?
 

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You should fill to the full line. It's OK to be a little under but filling to the full line is preferred. Remember to start the car then shut it off and let it sit a while before checking. Since the engine usually takes 4-1/2 quarts with the standard length, and the longer filter is barley and inch longer I have a hard time believing it would take a full 5 quarts. Always check for clearance before installing a larger filter, some people have problems. I just use a filter with more area like the Purolator instead of risking filter damage.

thanks for the compliment Ron, you seem like a knowledgeable guy and I see your idea, just thought I'd clear up the area issue.

-T
 

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T-Keith said:
You should fill to the full line. It's OK to be a little under but filling to the full line is preferred. Remember to start the car then shut it off and let it sit a while before checking. Since the engine usually takes 4-1/2 quarts with the standard length, and the longer filter is barley and inch longer I have a hard time believing it would take a full 5 quarts. Always check for clearance before installing a larger filter, some people have problems. I just use a filter with more area like the Purolator instead of risking filter damage.

thanks for the compliment Ron, you seem like a knowledgeable guy and I see your idea, just thought I'd clear up the area issue.

-T
any chance you could see what a K&N guts look like? and see if you can "rinse and reuse those you know just add oil......" lol
 

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Just to correct some misinformation: there is NO bypass valve in the oil filters for our cars. The bypass is built into the engine. Also, a larger filter will not filter any better than a smaller filter. Given that the filter mfgr uses the same filtration media in the two filters, which is almost always true, the filtration will be the same. This doesn't mean there aren't advantages to larger filters, though. The larger filter will potentially flow more oil due to a larger filtration media surface area, possibly preventing the bypass valve from opening, especially on cold startup. No one, however, has been able to convincingly prove that. It's all speculation and theory at this point. Most people report no observable change in engine sounds or in oil pressure from using a larger filter.

One known fact is that a larger filter will have a larger capacity to hold the junk that is filtered out of the oil, allowing you to keep the filter on the car for a longer period of time. This is mainly a benefit for those interested in extended oil changes.

Also, a larger filter will give you a larger sump capacity, due to the increased size of the filter. You need an extra 1/2 qt with the larger filter. This is actually an advantage for two reasons. Oils all contain additives to help disperse carbon buildup and to help fight acid buildup in the oil. Having more oil in the system gives you more of these additives, which offers more protection for the engine. Also, having a larger sump capacity allows the oil to run slightly cooler, which is good if you're running hard or in high temps.

Hope this helps.
 
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