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Newbie with an issue

1249 Views 16 Replies 2 Participants Last post by  DBRiviera
Hi guys and gals.
I am new to your forum and hope to share some tech ideas and slove problems; mine and yours.

I have been into cars since I was old enough to draw a car and pretty much have done everything thats needs to be done from mechanical, electrical, bodywork and paint.

Recent project is a supercharged 98 Riviera; this being my second one.

This is the first 3800 I have rebuilt so i am learning some new things.

I have come across a head scratcher and hope someone has a definitive answer...

On my 3800, i am trying to understand cam bearing selection.

The shop manual is unclear and the parts supply, Rock Auto , lists 2 designs for cam bearing sizes.

I have had a machine shop do the install but i am not at ease with the tightness even after i took it back. I am not sure I want this shop to be involved any longer.

I am thinking to pull the bearings and start over, only doing it myself as the bearings are not expansive and I don't want a spun cam bearing and the tool is available.

Here are the choices (below) .
Any input is appreciated.

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Not sure. Both major vendors, ZZP and Intense, sell the Clevite 77's for $21.99 and seem to be a good option. That might simplify things, and their customer service can answer questions on the phone if needed.

I don't have my digital calipers here right now, or I'd go measure a cam, etc. and look at factory sizing numbers. Probably overkill, though.
Yeah I don't see them on Zed that pees website anymore but I did order another set of cam bearings an installer so we'll see what happens. I was sticking around with it a little bit today and if I got it all set into place that has a tight spot in it so the cam is a little bit of run out but it shouldn't really be an issue... i polished it a measured it out and its within spec... you can actually see on the bearings where the cam is rubbing because I spun it at some speed just to see what would happen. I can also see where the Machine Shop damaged a couple of bearings moving the cam in and out in frustration looks like the lobe hit a couple of the bearings pretty hard. I'm not going back to this guy and some leaning towards his lack of due diligence f***** it up
I looked them up on ZZP yesterday before I posted that, so they're there.

Good luck.
Ok i found them under engine section. I ended up getting a set from rock auto and installed myself . Problem solved.
New issue is : cannot get the timing chain crank sproket installed on the crank. The oil pump drive also won't go on. The timing set is from ZZP so i emailed them. I may try baking the peices at 350 for 45 min in the oven.
Sprockets can be snug, just put some oil on there and use a soft mallet to tap once it's aligned. ZZP has a video showing this in the last week with a cam install.
Its not snug it won't go on at all. Same with the oil pump drive. I tried to tap it on and it just wedged into the crank so I stopped before damage was done.
Share some pics... What engine, chain set brand, etc.

I'm going off minimal info here, which provides minimal help back.
3800 , 98 Riv (as I metioned in the previous post) , rollermaster single chain from zzp . I watched the video. He drives the sprocket on with a mallet and an aluminum pipe.
He then says the pump drive "slides on" but doesn't show it . My pump drive will not slide but will need to be coerced on with force. I am going to give his technique a shot but i will still heat the parts up to aide on the installation
Rollmaster certainly machines their stuff a bit on the tight side (I guess be thankful you're not fighting a fresh double sprocket set on... done that a dozen or so times).

Heat should be enough, just don't get too wild.
20 minutes under the broiler and slides on with great ease
You used the cookie pan storage drawer? :LOL:
I wanted to use a cookie sheet but all i could find was a stainless steel potlid! Worked great. I took the gear out and put that on 1st and and then grabbed the oil pump drive and installed that. They went on very easily. I put some engine oil on the crank snout and I think that also helped so they didn't cool as quickly as they were sliding into place. Once they sat there for about a second they were solid.. the best way to do this is to push the camshaft back into the block, put the gear and the oil pump drive on the crank and then hang the chain around the cam gear, line up your marks, wrap the chain under the crank gear, holding the cam gear in front of the camshaft.. reach around to the back of the block and just slide the camshaft forward and it just pops right into the cam gear very... easy even with a double roller this way.
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Sounds like it went well. I usually run things on the crank first, with chain assembled and get onto the cam as it gets closer to the block. No plan tends to survive past the front cover getting removed, though.
The engine is complete and installed and runs fantastic. The oil seal is leaking on the SC so ill replace that next. Having an ABS isdue bug i ordered a new EBCM/ TCS for it as the diagnostic led me to that. Had some clearance isdues with the ZZP rear powerlog but reslved that with some bending and flatten of pipes and shields. I am being led to believe the W car and G body car use a different rear manifold. Also rodents ate into my outer CV boots so thats a mess of grease to clean up after I replace the boots.I did mot see the open boots until after mh shakedown drive . [email protected] rodents!
I've see them eat wires but chewung into the boots is a new one on me.


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Yes, H/G-body downpipes are offset, compared to W-body's. ZZP explicitly states this in the P-Log description.
I have enquired to ZZP about this .
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