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Discussion Starter #1
Greetings. I'm Jakespeed, one of the last of the Baby Boomers, soon approaching retirement.

I'm working on my current daily driver, a one family owned, Employee Special Ordered (with ALL of the original paperwork), Olds 98 Regency Elite, a car I've owned for about 5 years now.

Those are Cadillac Sedan de Ville 16"x7" Wheels that I added to replace the O.E. 14"x6" factory aluminum wheels. However, the Rear Spoiler that the previous owner's son mounted at his Mother's request appears to have come off of a Toronado Troféo. My goal is to upgrade the Suspension (Struts are done), Brakes, Lights, Wheels (done), Exhaust (done) and Driveline to make this big car handle well and hopefully keep up with the larger BMWs in metro Charlotte. Before the pandemic lockdown, I was blogging about it at blogspot.GEZEROKET.com
11034
 

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Interesting platform to do a build on, keeping up with BMW 5’s, 7’s and other large euro’s will be a challenge but not impossible. Most of the larger Germans have V8’s or turbo 6cyl’s making excess of 350hp. To build a supercharged 3800 you have to go pretty over the top from basic bolt-ons to make that kind of power.
I have a ‘03 Monte SS top-swapped that has had almost anything you can think of modded on it besides the bottom end and from a stop it’s no match still for most enthusiastic V8’s but from rolling cruise it gives Coyote Stangs trouble.
 

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Yeah, but I’m not looking at the M-Series or Turbo-cars. This is what the SCCA racers would refer to as a “Momentum Car,”where you’re using inertia of a long run up to speed, to catch someone off guard and pass them. My goal is to stay with these cars in the curves and have about 250-260 HP on tap, just enough to keep up with them in traffic. Basically, I want an “ultimate GT” in which I can “keep up with the big dogs,” especially on a winding road.

I’m at least half way there on the suspension, as I swapped struts and springs from the 1991 Oldsmobile 98 Touring Sedan. Anti-sway bars from a Bonneville are next.

Then the plan is for the ZZP’s F-body brake conversion for the Front End and rear discs from a Park Avenue. (You’ll notice that I’m trying to combine factory GM parts for this build.)

Then it’s time for the Daniel Stern lighting kit and NOS lights. You should never build a car that will outrun its lights.

The back of the exhaust is done with a 2–1/2” welded system (no crushed down bends), terminating into a Camaro B4C police interceptor muffler (It sounds very Much like the Old Pontiac 6000 STE). I still need the down pipe, a resonator, the ceramic coated crossover pipe and a front Power Log.

The goal for the engine is a torque build of about 250-260 HP of normally aspirated 3800 Series II. Then I’m going to add a 3.29 HD differential. This car needs more torque and a steeper gear to pull the big C-body (same as a 95 Cadillac Sedan de Ville) around.

The inside will be restored (Digital Dash, Digital Climate Controls, Concert Stereo Sound with CD and Cassette Tape -this likely will get replaced, Sunroof, Leather Interior, Limousine Sized Rear Seating, Passenger Side HVAC Temp Controls, Power Trunk Opener and Pull Down, Steering Wheel Audio and HVAC Temp and Blower Speed controls).

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BTW, this year was the last year for the “‘Real’ Oldsmobile 98 Regency Elite“ as a car. The older Demographic of potential buyers for the car , raised enough hell with Oldsmobile , that GM released a “98 package” for its H-body Olds 88, using the 96 Olds hood and grill in middle of the 1997 model year.
 

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250-260 is not problem. M90 with a 3.4” pulley, intercooler and opened exhaust should do that trick no problem.
 

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Sounds like he wants to stick with N/A, so the ZZP GT2 cam and an HV3 insert would be the ticket there. I've seen guys get to ~200 hp at the wheels (~240 hp flywheel) with that cam in their L36's. You could probably get away with tuning it via a mini-AFC and monitoring a wideband O2 however you choose.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
If I could find the "right pieces" (a decent low mileage 3800 Series II Supercharged and 4T65E-HD Transmission, Intercooler and a decent set of ported heads) AND GET THE PCM REPROGRAMMED so the PCM would interact with the BCM), I might try boost. I sure could buy a lot of Premium fuel at +$.50/gallon for the differential price between the two engines. And as the car just turned 25 Model years old, we are no longer required to an have emissions inspections.

I've been long taught about "the combination" and getting cam, heads, intake system and exhaust system all compliment each other. I am looking at a N/A engine that makes close to what the Supercharged engine makes. I want a fat, Flat torque curve. The late Lee Hancock told me that the cylinder head flow is the most important thing to consider. And the example of the Gen 3, 5.7 Hemi backs up his assertion with the engine making 375 HP at 5750 revs , with a camshaft with only 192 degrees of duration. Headers scavenge the cylinders and intensify the intake airflow, with the engine responding with 395 HP.

So my recipe is to use a set of Intense Racing's Stage 3 ported heads (as the Aluminum ZZP heads are now gone), the GT1 Cam, Front Power Log, Ceramic Coated Cross-over Pipe, H-Body 2.5" Down Pipe, 2.5" Resonator, HV3 insert, Differential/Final upgrade to 3.29:1 and most of the NA Recommended Mods (the H and C-bodies use an engine mount that bolts to the front cover, so the reduced speed water pump pulley won't work on them). Apparently neither will the Rear Power Log (much to my chagrin). Figuring a 20% loss in the driveline, I'm hoping for 250-260 HP at the crank is about 200-208 HP at the wheels. If this works as expected, I hope to be able to keep up with BMW 3 series cars at that HP Level.

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I won't ever race it, as it's too hard on the driveline (my car only has a 4T60E transaxle - even if I upgrade the differential, it's still the weak link) and motor mounts of an old classic car. But being able to keep up in Charlotte Traffic when I drive into the city is a necessity.

The Caddy 16"x8" Wheels look good on the Olds 98 (and cost me 1/3 of what the asking price for a set of the Oldsmobile Turbine wheels) with the moderate dechroming (contributing to the Touring Sedan Look). The Oldsmobile mud flaps continue the GEZEER ilusion of an old guy driving his clean mid-1990s ride.
 

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Sounds like you already had a plan, so good luck (tends to be the case when people ask for input on forums, it seems).

Don't knock mud flaps too much... Kept the sides of my GTP cleaner, and about to add some to my Regal to minimize rubber cleanup after track days, too.
 

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I have a used HV3 for sale and rather than a pulley change for the water pump just get the Meziere electric water pump. Cooler temps help a lot and the HD pump moves 55gph I believe. That’s way more than the mechanical pump. I think it’s rated to save 11hp if engine load and it’s moving 55gph even at idle or engine off. (My numbers might be off a bit).
My Monte never gets over 180F even on the hottest days regardless of how I’m driving it.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
How much will it cost to ship the HV3 insert to metro Charlotte, NC (28075) US? Please advise.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Cool. I’m interested.

When you do, I want to get it. Contact me and we can make arrangements for payment and shipping
 

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So it all depends what rate of shipping I send it at but the $25 option looks good. It’s not getting there the next day but maybe a week or two. Depending on the border delays.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
For give me for being gone for a while: New job, Mother-in-Law had a stroke, then unexpectedly died a week later, Memorial Service and other random things that comes with a family death. Things are starting to get back to normal. How can I contact you off of this board?
 

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Oh damn! Sorry to hear about all that happening. I do hope things are getting back to normal, or at least as normal as can be.
You’re welcome to PM me here and we can discuss offline communication.
 
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