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Joined this forum in hopes of gaining knowledge in proper modification of these very cool lil power plants. Project is a 1955 Ford F100 that I am installing a L67 into. The conversion itself has been fiqured out using bellhousing torque convertor and a 4L60E trans from a 2000 Camaro.
Where I am needing help with is I dont want to leave the engine stock. I am looking at about 350- 375 RWHP. With this in mind is it a reasonable HP goal to use as a daily driver? If it is and I think it is what is needed to get me there?
I will be using the 2000 Camaro style of headers for the conversion which will free up the exhaust side flow.
I am thinking to port the blower, intake manifold , and cylinder heads along with camshaft etc. I dont know how much camshaft to use. Will a intercooler below the blower help in cooling the charge? Injector upgrades? Pulley size? Throttle body? Etc. Etc.
Where and who to purchase parts I need without selling me things I dont need for this.
All suggestions are welcome

Liteweight
 

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My full build is not on this forum but everything you’re looking to do I did to mine and you should be in that 330 to 360 wheel horsepower range. I’ll see if I can find my bill sheet and give you all the part #’s I ordered.
 

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ZZPerformance and Intense-Racing are the primary vendors in this market, and you can source many things elsewhere with ingenuity.

Be careful with Camaro V6 headers, as the primaries tend to be fairly small (1-1/2") compared to most GTP/etc. header options of 1-5/8", 1-3/4", and rare 1-7/8".

You'll want an intercooler core under the M90 for sure, and a cam that's either the ZZP X-P or XPZ, or Intense Stg 1x or Stg 3 for proven streetable performance.

Injector will need to be 60 lb/hr (650cc) for 93oct, or bigger for E85 if you're getting all the power from that setup.

When spending all that time porting, don't kill the gains by limiting the intake tube size ahead of the TB (4" minimum), especially having to route a bend from the firewall. I see too many choking the M90 in many setups, making it suck through a straw.
 

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My full build is not on this forum but everything you’re looking to do I did to mine and you should be in that 330 to 360 wheel horsepower range. I’ll see if I can find my bill sheet and give you all the part #’s I ordered.
That would be awesome. I appreciate this. Im wanting to do a single one time build before it goes in. Not against spending $$$$ where it is needed but not at stuff that is not. Fabrication is not an issue nor is modifiying cylinder heads or intakes myself. Mostly looking for a tried and true package that works for one of these things. Once its built I want to drive it. Not work on it.
What engine control unit you using?
 

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Thanx for that dezldave.Ya makes sense on the NA 3800s to have smaller primary tubes to keep the port velocities up with the small tube diameters compared to the supercharged ones. Looking for short style rather than long tube mostly for unknown ground clearances. Im wanting to locate the engine as low as possible.
Regarding the ubend on the rear of the supercharger, yes absolutely will be no less than 4" if I bring it forward from there. Holdens be very rare to locate over here but any idea what size ID they are using?

Up here in Canada we dont have E85 locally available so injector size wont need to be that large.
Suggestions on fuel pump supply GPHs?
I would assume pressure remain the same as OEM?

Any preference on intercoolers? Several styles available as advertised. Some I am seeing "not available at this time"
 

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You can try adapting 3.8L Mustang headers, too, or SuperCoupe T-birds for larger primary options. The flange is pretty close, I believe (can you tell I've got a RWD swap on the horizon?).

Holden Gen3 M90's don't get too big on their elbow interiors, and it's more of an oval at the turn. Their eBay is an option from time to time. Whatever you do, be sure to post pics. There's a few hacked-up ones people have done for Camaro and S-10 projects before.

You should be good with a 320-340 Lph pump, or whatever works. I've got the typical 255 drop-in that's supported more than you're running with 60#, helped some by using a 4.0 bar regulator (early 2000's VW/Audi direct swap from OEM). I've had the same 4 bar on my s/c build making mid-300's with 42.5# near max duty cycle.

ZZP is about the only new manufacturing one, and best core performance, typically. Not sure what Milzy's offering, and if he's active. In AUS, Mace may have something, but they usually partner with ZZP on alot of things. (Don't go for Air-Air on a roots blower, because that's not how they work best).
 

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Thanx for that info Dave. This is exactly why I joined this group. Much appreciated.
So Im thinking I will order a couple 3.8 Ford exhaust manifold gaskets to see how close the ports, and bolt holes are. I can fabricate new flanges as long as the ports are close and its only the bolt hole location being an issue. Great suggestion. I will look into this.
Im not against fabricating a set either but finding a 3 into 1 collector will prolly be a challenge.

Intercoolers..... ya saw the A2A and first thing that came to my mind is throttle response and lag. I would think it would get really rich at hit of throttle until it would receive boost accordingly.

I am totally new to building anything with HP using a throttle body and/ or boosted. I am old school that builds HP via cubes, squeeze, camshafts, multi carburated and has compression in V8s. 95% Gen. 2 Hemi stuff of the 60s is my happy place. Currently have an original 70 Hemicuda that Ive owned since 1976 and a 1 of 80 factory built liteweight Race car. A 1968 Hemi Dart. Ive owned the Dart since 2001. It has a self built 950+ HP Hemi in it that I street drive regularly.

What is your RWD conversion intent?
 

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Probably a ZR2 S10, mostly for the minor chassis/axle upgrades they got, and similar generation of GM vehicle for wiring adaptation. Also has a busy aftermarket for drag or general items as I try to get into single digits and still cruise or go on a Drag/Race Week event. Might be a platform for taking further with a bigger engine later, too.

If you want to check, look up the headers, etc. online and see how they compare. I forget if it's identical or flipped for similar bolt pattern. You can also roam the junkyards for ideas. Even recent Jeep V6's might've had something useful, I forget.
 
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