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Discussion Starter #1
I'm in the Process of Rebuilding My 3800 Impala Engine After having persistent Cyl 5 Misfire, A little history: I Replaced everything relating to the Cyl 5, But to no avail. So when I opened it up, I found Oil on top of the Lower intake Manifold, Seems a common issue with these engines. My Throttle Body To Upper Intake Manifold gasket Looks Warped from the EGR tube Heat (which I suspected is where the coolant Was getting to the Oil from)
My Rockers and Push-Rods have play in them, (the Rocker Arms Slide from side to side, even tho its not very much, But it worries Me, Also, I can Spin Around the Push-Rods with ease especially Cyl #5 Push-Rods), I haven't gotten to the Rear bank Yet, But I'm guessing it'll be the same scenario back there.
I though of Just replacing the Lifters and corresponding Push-Rods that had play in them (as a cheap fix), but I figured that won't be a good idea.

So My question(s) is, are the play that I'm having in those Rockers and Push-Robs a common thing to see in these engines?
If not : (1) what would be a good way to diagnose what My problem is while I have the engine Open?
(2) What extra step/check can I do while I'm inside the engine to See what else I need to perform a good fix? Is it worth it dropping the Oil Pan and Checking the Bearing for any Play too?
And (3) If I don't need anything else, Will Just Replacing ALL Of the Push-Rods and Lifters Fix This Issue For Me?

Any other Tips And Advice guidance You Pros guys can give Me will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

Link to Video And Symptoms History : Play In Rocker Arm And Push Rod Vid - https://youtu.be/LYh8oXtdWA0

Misfire And Knocking Vid - https://youtu.be/6tIruu1chBA
 

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You are lacking proper oiling in the 2nd video, which is the reason for the squeaking. the cause can be from the lifter, push rod, or rocker oil passages partially stopped up.
The rockers should be pre-loaded w/the lifter @ the bottom of the cam lobe. You will have to verify the pre-load from your auto manual, but it should be between .015-.030".
The cause of the excessive play in the valve train can be attributed to poor oiling if the pump is starting to go. You would have to verify your oil pressure.
Cam, valve spring, collapsed valve lifters, or even worn valve seats can contribute to the valve train play.
The oil in the lim is normally from the egr valve. If excessive, may be due to too much blow-by.
One not so obvious problem when you hear the squealing noise, is a stuck-open fuel injector. It will wash the oil from the side wall of the cylinder, leading to major damage.
Hope this helps.
 

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Eso6200-The ignition voltage is about 35-40kv. If you open your hood in the dark. Raise the RPM's and it will reveal any leakage coming from the coil/module, spark plug wires, or boot at the plug.
If all is good, pull the plug to see if you are getting fuel to the cylinder. If it is not firing, the plug should be wet and have a strong fuel smell. Connect the plug back into the plug wire boot and ground it against the engine. Crank the engine over to see if the plug is actually firing. Should see a bright blue spark from the plug.(If spark is yellowish the spark is weak)
If you have fuel and spark, you will have to check for a broken spring or possibly a wiped lobe.
Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I have fuel and spark, but IDK why noone is mentioning the oil pressure Switch? I was watching a YouTube Video and He Hints that bad oil pressure Switch can prevent You Car from starting.. Or is doea this not apply to 7th Gen Impalas?
If so, what else am I Missing? Car Still won't start.. it cranks and cranks but no spark.

Also I want to ask something else, One 2 or 3 Occasions I have Cranked the Engine so long that Smoke came from Behind the Engine, Does anyone know where the smoke came from or what part of the Engine the smoke came from?

Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Update as of today.
This Crank and No start Problem started even before I did the Upper and Lower Intake Gaskets. It had spark, Or at least I thought it did.. Anyway, So Yesterday I did the ICM and Crankshaft Position Sensor Diagnosis with Multimeter, It came back as Faulty ICM and Crank Position Sensor Cos I didn't see 12 Volts on the ICM or 0-6Volts on The Crankshaft Position Sensor as the test Directive suggested. So, I figured that was the cause of No spark. So, today I went and bought and installed brand new ICM and Crank Position Sensor and guess what? Wait For It, THERE WAS STILL NO SPARK!!! So at this point I'm Mad Pissed, Frustrated, Tired and Just about as irritated as I can be, I've been working on this car since Monday. I Found out it didn't have Spark when I had someone crank the Engine while I had the Spark Plug wire (Coming from the Coil pack) (Checked each Coil pack one at a time for spark) in My hand, The Spark Plugs didn't even Fire for half a second. I even did the Screw driver style test and Grounded to the car Just to see if I'll get a spark, Still Nada. So, now I'm thinking Maybe My ICM and Crank Position Sensor were not bad after all, There must be another underlying Cause making them not to do their Job that is not showing itself. But, I Just gave up cos I don't know what else to do. I need some help, someone tell Me what to do.
 

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It sounds like it's way past time to have someone do a good "scan" of the pcm data and trouble codes to see what's missing or inoperative. Jake

PS.....just a wild guess but you could have a bad ignition control module. They are not cheap which is why a good scan may keep you from spending too much money for NO RESULTS......
 
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