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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i had my block decked and my heads shaved in the rebuild process and i used INTENSE mls head gaskets and i have a coolant leak around one of the head studs. can anybody tell me how to go about fixing the leak.
 

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Did you use thread sealant when putting in the head studs? It is a must since the studs go into the water jacket.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
well i was told just to dip them ends of the studs into motor then screw them into the block hand tight. but there is only one stud that is leakin and it is on the front bank of cylinders on the transmission end and it is the lower stud, the one that is not under the rocker cover. but if i'm going to put sealant on it what sealant would you recommend
 

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shadetree3800 said:
well i was told just to dip them ends of the studs into motor then screw them into the block hand tight. but there is only one stud that is leakin and it is on the front bank of cylinders on the transmission end and it is the lower stud, the one that is not under the rocker cover. but if i'm going to put sealant on it what sealant would you recommend
Any high temp thread sealant should work fine!
 

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shadetree3800 said:
i had my block decked and my heads shaved in the rebuild process and i used INTENSE mls head gaskets and i have a coolant leak around one of the head studs. can anybody tell me how to go about fixing the leak.
I also had a head gasket leak and I even used thread sealant on the studs. I used 3 disolved GM seal tabs (3634621) and it stopped the leak. I figured I would try this before I took the head back off.

Greg
 

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You are not going to like this. The proper way to fix this will be to disassemble the motor and re-install the head studs with a PTFE thread sealant such as this.

It stated this quite clearly in the ARP installation instructions that came with your kit.

You might be able to seal the motor with the GM tabs, but those things SUCK and muck stuff up pretty bad. They are a bad solution to the problem. (sorry Greg)

Sorry to deliver bad news. :mad:
 

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Excell said:
You might be able to seal the motor with the GM tabs, but those things SUCK and muck stuff up pretty bad. They are a bad solution to the problem. (sorry Greg)

Sorry to deliver bad news. :mad:
No problem. The motor is apart anyway since I had a rod bolt break and I lost a rod bearing. The spare engine is getting the work done now and I will seal studs with the proper GM sealant this time.

Greg
 

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we all take the arp studs to 10ft lbs. Alot of times hand tight isnt enough. Even if you have tapped the holes, they catch on things alot of times well before they are in.

Agree, the tabs is not a great idea. I have used them once in the past. The muck on the radiator caps of alot of our cars is in fact those tabs that came from the factory in the dexcool when the car was new.
 

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ARP head studs, and the MLS head gaskets are reusable right?

Glad I read this...I used the ARP assembly lube on the top and bottom threads of the studs. I guess now I have to pull them all and do this to all of the bottom threads, because I know what ones go into a water jacket...but then again I dont know what ones dont.

ED- I'll take that advice on pre torquing them 10ft. lbs instead of the "hand tight" that ARP says to do. Mine are hand tight now.

Would this be ok to use for sealent on the bottom threads that goes into the water jackets?

"Permatex Ultra Gray - Sensor-safe, RTV Silicone Gasket Maker". This works great for the front and rear engine covers and the side bolts for the main caps. How about another use? Lets hear from the Pros~!

~Farnsworth~
 

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Ok figured out what I did wrong, turns out I'm not alone on this. Thanks to Jeff, he told me what to do to seal the studs correctly.

Removed heads, gaskets and studs. I cleaned the studs in solvent, and blew off the solvent so the studs were dry.

Got out my set of engine brush cleaning kit, and found a size that fits snug in the head stud hole. Using brake cleaner in a spray can, I washed out all the ARP lube, and used a air nozzle to blow them clean and dry.

(went and ate dinner)

Using GM's "Sealant" that was recomended for this, I squarted some on a small screw driver, and stuck the screw driver into the head stud hole in the block and lubbed up those threads.

I applied a lot of lube on the studs, and started them by hand, got them all in and then with two of the nuts snugly jamed together on the stud, I torqued them into the block to 10ft. lbs. Couldnt locate my allen head sockets.

Once they are all done I wipped off every bit of lube that oozed out from around the stud from it being installed. Cleaned the deck of the block with claner, reinstalled the gasket, heads, and ARP washers. I coated the stud threads for the nuts with ARP lube now and installed the nuts.

Torqued the nuts in order (according to GM's specks) first time around at 30 ft. lbs. then the second and final time, 70 ft. lbs. to ARP's specks.

The sealant from GM is part number 12346004 and a tube of that cost me $17.24 with tax. This stuff is nothing more than TFE Paste - Pipe Thread Compund with Teflon. I already owned a tube of this for when I did all the plumbing work for my nitrous system.

The back of the non-GM sealant reads:
Directions:Non-hardening, withstands up to 3,000 PSI on gases at temperatures from -50*F. to +400*F. and 10,000 PSI on liquids from -50*F. to +500*F. Use on water, steam, natural & LP gas, oils, fuels, and dilute acids. Apply to clean male pipe threads on metals, PVC, CPVC, ABS, polypropylene and nylon. Lubricates as it seals, will not harm seals of valves or faucets.

blah, blah, blah do not induce vomiting...etc. so on and so on. :D

This is the same stuff in my opinion...but if not, correct me if I'm wrong. This will work and I bought a 1oz. tube for like $2.00 a few years ago when I did my nitrous system and still have 1/2 the tube left. (ACE Hardwear, part number ACE 45281) It does set up, but it doesnt turn solid. Thats whats nice about it. You can remove the parts...and just relube them when you put them back in. Example...cleaning the little metal screen on your nitrous main feed line every now and then.

My $0.02 anyway. Studs are in correctly...and just hope I'll be ok with my MLS head gaskets since they are "reinstalled" now.

~Farnsworth~
 

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JasonGS- ya that does believe it or not.

Here is the list of other bolts on the engine that gets the Tefflon Lube Sealant:

All the head studs, the part the screwes into the block...duh.
all intake manifold bolts.
On the front timing cover, pretty much all the bolts get it:
2 short bolts under the water pump
4 long bolts that go through the water pump
1 bolt on the water pump, the one on the very bottom (lowest bolt).
On the aluminum snout, that has an idler pulley on it, it has three bolts that hold it to the engine: 1 bolt on the very bottom of that snout gets sealant.
On the front of the engine, above the front cover, and below the intake minifold there is a torx headed bolt, its the lifter valley drain plug, that gets tefflon lube on it as well.

Wish there was a list like this out there on what bolts get what lube on these engines...would save a lot of time spent redoing the job because of leaks.

Here is a start, my donation to the list thanks to Big Jeff learning me good.

~Farnsworth~
 
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