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Good note. That helps keep the plug contact inside the boot from corroding, arcing, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
are you using dielectric grease in your plug boots?
Correct. Too many times the wires broke while disconnecting so I started using grease.
 

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Hi all, MR GOODWRENCH here, Reading posts on this forum and wonder why others are having issues. My GTP (heads ported and polished) , XP cam, SLP headers, 3" stainless exhaust all the way to rear, without a cat, with zero problems. I tested my SC pressure(14/15 psi). My sc pulley is 2.75 inch diameter. I have not had any issues other than nasty tire slipping unless it's at 80+ mph..... Very fun car to drive as long as I pay attention to what the tires are doing! OH, my gtp at highway cruse speeds is near 18/19 miles per gallon. I do run a full size inter cooler, NO thermostat(I always warm it up before pushing it). Oh, I forgot to mention I did have to machine SC snout for the 2.75 pulley. Of coarse I run BP premium fuel! Where I live BP is about the only good fuel)....never experienced any issues. One other thing I do is to run it on the rich side just in case..... .650 mv shown on snap on scanner. I do that just to ease up on extreme heat at heads and pistons. I did fry a set of oem type pistons(bad choice) so I did install a good set forged pistons. If you need any more info, post on this forum and I can respond. My ride has been with me(2003 GTP) since 2003. The only issue I ever had was when I fried a set of OEM pistons. Long gone, now with forged pistons better cooling, and MOBILE 1 OIL. It's a winner except for nasty tire spin....I do need to get a new set of FALKIN TIRES......OLD ONES ARE GETTING PRETTY HARD after several years. Guess it's time for another new set of FALKIN TIRES(for street). Best of luck to all, Jake (mr goodwrench). Have fun and try to stay safe without getting caught by local highway patrol!
 

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And that's his profile, folks. It happens, and some people just gotta get it out.

Part of why people have issues, is because they don't get relevant responses that process the conversation and use experience with installing parts themselves to know the nuances. I'll pause there out of kindness.
 
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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Hi all, MR GOODWRENCH here, Reading posts on this forum and wonder why others are having issues. My GTP (heads ported and polished) , XP cam, SLP headers, 3" stainless exhaust all the way to rear, without a cat, with zero problems. I tested my SC pressure(14/15 psi). My sc pulley is 2.75 inch diameter. I have not had any issues other than nasty tire slipping unless it's at 80+ mph..... Very fun car to drive as long as I pay attention to what the tires are doing! OH, my gtp at highway cruse speeds is near 18/19 miles per gallon. I do run a full size inter cooler, NO thermostat(I always warm it up before pushing it). Oh, I forgot to mention I did have to machine SC snout for the 2.75 pulley. Of coarse I run BP premium fuel! Where I live BP is about the only good fuel)....never experienced any issues. One other thing I do is to run it on the rich side just in case..... .650 mv shown on snap on scanner. I do that just to ease up on extreme heat at heads and pistons. I did fry a set of oem type pistons(bad choice) so I did install a good set forged pistons. If you need any more info, post on this forum and I can respond. My ride has been with me(2003 GTP) since 2003. The only issue I ever had was when I fried a set of OEM pistons. Long gone, now with forged pistons better cooling, and MOBILE 1 OIL. It's a winner except for nasty tire spin....I do need to get a new set of FALKIN TIRES......OLD ONES ARE GETTING PRETTY HARD after several years. Guess it's time for another new set of FALKIN TIRES(for street). Best of luck to all, Jake (mr goodwrench). Have fun and try to stay safe without getting caught by local highway patrol!
With all those improvements and top notch equipment, you shouldn't have issues. Some of us are just wondering why some stock replacements don't work anymore.
 

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The key answer is partly age of many components, combined with dozens of hands in the engine bays over the years of maintenance and upgrades (some knowing what they're doing, and some less so). As vehicles see their 2nd, 3rd+ owners and unknown maintenance intervals, driving conditions (weather and gas pedal treatment), we now have to realize the additional issues that may arise beyond the basic "install parts X-Y-Z... ???... Profit!"

Corrosion on grounds, connections, and inside wire harnesses can be a hidden issue you have to find, but isn't something dealt with on a garage'd car that's not been daily driven 150+K since the original owner had it, etc. Improperly installing/routing the ignition module harness through the bracket area, for instance, can cause bad grounding and crushing the wires in some cases (many "mechanics" don't pay attention to original layout on this one).

We're dealing with cars that had a rough life as everyday vehicles without much close attention, and people are going to be finding new issues that a cookie-cutter answer isn't always suited to fix. Yes, I had great luck building a GTP myself in the early '00's on a college kid's budget & running 12's consistently, but I got ahold if that car (and now my Buick) early enough in their lives to not deal with the deeper issues many now see.

Good luck troubleshooting, and we'll keep making suggestions as we can.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Solution : installing new AC Delco premium wires. I even put the heat shields back on. Full boost no misses yet.
 

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Yay! Glad it apparently was a simple repair. Keep it happy, and hopefully you enjoy it a ton.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Simple repair, not easy to diagnose.
 

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It's directly related to how much throttle you're giving it. You should not have a reason to do more than breathe on the pedal in reverse anyway, so I don't know what kind of Evel Knievel's are going 30+% throttle in reverse.

The BBV control solenoid is a nanny device meant to help those who'd otherwise be weeded out by Darwin for smashing the pedal in a modified supercharged car in reverse. Deleting it just guarantees the engine directly reacts to your input.
 
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