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L67 yj

21882 Views 38 Replies 11 Participants Last post by  Krod
Hey there 3800 community. I thought I'd post some details on my L67 swap into my Jeep YJ I'm in the process of rebuilding.

In the works

* YJ Frame & 4wd Hardware glass tub
* GM 3.8 liter L67 supercharged V6
* Aisin-Warner AW4, manual shift conversion w/OD
* Atlas 4 speed
* 78 HP Dana 60 Detroit locker 4.88 and other goodies
* 14bFF Detroit locker & 4.88's
* Double triangulated 4 link rear, 3 link front w/panhard
* 40" Goodyear MTR's
* FOA coilovers F/R

I'm going to try to keep it somewhat drivable on the street, but I'm sure I'll have to make concessions to make everything work together (mainly the steering). We'll see where we're at when that bridge arrives...

The remains of the old YJ were sold or traded off....sad to see her go, but I know the parts got a good home and will be abused accordingly

What it was:...

Stripping the old Jeep for parts...(no comments about it looking like a rollerskate please... )

Deliveries from Brown, er...White Santa (...it was FedEx, I'm not racist )

Ballistic Fabrication came through with some goodies

They're sitting in the new tub, on a MUCH better frame (the picture here doesn't do it justice...stripped pictures coming soon)

The Engine and transmission are bolted together for mock-up and motor mount fab. Headers fit like a glove, so I just need to get moving on building the links and mocking up the 60/14bFF.
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Started stripping the frame of the old powder coat and what little rust was on it.

It's in really nice shape under all the old faded black

Aircraft stripper takes powder coat, paint, and anything else that's attached to your frame and makes it go away. We WIPED it off with rags for 90% of the rails, and it looked like it just came back from media blasting....unfreakinbeleavable!!! USE GLOVES IF YOU WORK WITH THIS STUFF :icon_eek:

Getting the headers set on the engine for mockup.

The front end is all tacked together, but the 60 will need pulled to finish welding the truss/brackets. Still have some work to do like chopping the front once I figure out where the steering box needs to go, and welding the gussets on the trac-bar frame side mount.
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1st pass welds on the lower front control arm frame brackets

work on the transmission crossmember.

Rear 4 link coming together. I still need to tie the rear truss together and add the bracing to the center crossmembers, and A LOT of final welding...but its finally starting to look like a chassis.

Engine parts:
Intense Racing s1X Cam
Ti Retainers
Crow Cams 105# valve springs
Intense Racing 3.3" Charger Pulley
ARP head studs
JP Single roller timing set
Various gaskets, breathers, etc for the rebuild
Pacesetter Ceramic coated headers/Y-pipe (already on the engine for mockup)

HP-Tuners VCM suite so I can tune the L67 for those power adders

I finally made sense of the factory engine harness. What a mess, but it cleaned up nicely after I removed a ton of circuits and loom held together by the worlds strongest factory electrical tape known to man :icon_lol:

Tearing it all apart

I'm trying to keep working on the little projects through the winter, so that come nicer weather I can get the suspension finish welded and the body on. Then paint all of the rolling chassis/axles and get the engine fired up.

working on finalizing the Engine Harness.
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I tore the engine down to put in the go-fast bits and replace all the gaskets.

Parts cart holding all the bs parts that need to be cleaned or painted.

Torquing the ARP head stud nuts, and getting the rest of the long block put back together. Almost ready for paint when I get some good weather. Everything inside was within spec, and the cylinders all had great compression and were still showing the original cross-hatching from the factory hone. Thank you grandparents everywhere for taking such good care of the cars these engines came in! LOL

starting to look like an engine again!

And that's where I'm at for now...Still have a long way to go, but I know there are a lot of guys always asking about RWD L67's so I figured you guys might enjoy following this project.

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those headers look sexy :icon_razz, excited to see more progress
very nice. glad to see someone that can fabricate also. i work for a offraod fabrication shop and u woodnt believe wat i see from other ppl thinking they can weld. kudos to u sir. im doing the same swap in my samurai. wat all did u take out of the stock harness, i havent gotten to that part yet but was wondering if u have a wiring pinout u used to do it? if so wood u care to share it? looking forward to seeing this completed! subscribed
Needs E85. :)
very nice. glad to see someone that can fabricate also. i work for a offraod fabrication shop and u woodnt believe wat i see from other ppl thinking they can weld. kudos to u sir. im doing the same swap in my samurai. wat all did u take out of the stock harness, i havent gotten to that part yet but was wondering if u have a wiring pinout u used to do it? if so wood u care to share it? looking forward to seeing this completed! subscribed

Thanks! I started reading your build last night. I'll be following along! I really enjoy fabricating, and take a great deal of pride in my work. Welds that are not up to my standards get ground out and re-done.
I have the pinouts and what I kept/deleted in the harness. My harness is from a 99 GS, so your colors may vary, but they're easy enough to figure out. What's your email. I'll shoot you the entire folder of tech I have on this engine.

Needs E85. :)
YES. :icon_twis I've never tuned for that before, this is my first real 100% on my own tuning attempt. Its going to be a while before I get it to driveable, but running is another story. Any help with that setup would be appreciated.

Since I'm building the fuel system from the ground up, are there any things I should/shouldn't include or watch out for when specing the lines/fittings etc if I would ever choose to run E85? Its pretty readily avaliable in my area, but I was planning on tuning for 93 since its easier to get in more remote areas where I wheel.
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Email sent Erich!

The wiring pin-outs for the PCM connectors are listed. The ones highlighted in yellow are used. There are a few others, and some colors may vary depending on the year your harness is from. But the pin locations should be correct.

I also threw in a few tech files and pics that are useful.

FWIW the Camaro oil pan and pickup fit, and give you more clearance than the FWD pans. You just have to change the pickup to match the pan.
Erich just ref'd me to your thread. Nice fab. work!
I'm also doing a RWD and could benefit from your knowledge. Possible to e-mail your wiring schem's/ECM pin info? I'm using a '98 Riviera L67 in my 1923T.
[email protected]


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I'll email you the file I sent Erich and work on posting my notes from when I redid the wiring harness to remove all the unnecessary junk.

Rebuilding the axles this weekend so i can get it rolling and finish the chassis work.

I have family around Willoughby, so maybe I'll get to see your rod at some point. Good luck with the swap, I'll watch your thread.
Matt, got the files you'd sent. Many thanks, good data!

I also have my in-laws in Wexford and get your way often. Let me know next time you're this way and I'll do the same. By your posts & data sent.....I've got a lot of L67-learnin' to do, so I'd enjoy the conversation so-long-as I can buy you a beer or 3 for your candor.
hey Matt i just realized that you are pretty close to me, where are you at in da burgh.

if you need any help tuning let me know, i also have HPT
I'm All over the burgh! Pick a corner of the triangle and I'm there at some point throughout the week. :icon_lol:

I'll definitely be coming back for tuning advice and help once I get it drivable. It should start and run with what I have setup in the PCM now, but "tuned" is another story.

If I can get the rest of the chassis/suspension finished this summer, I'm hoping to fire it up (at least just to make sure the engine is running right) before thanksgiving of this year. Too much going on to make a startup date before then.
Matt give me a holler when you need help, id be happy to come down, and there are a few other local 3800 guys that would join too.

Id love to see it
Had a chance to tear the hubs and brake brackets off of the 60 and 14 bolt, tore them down and had them blasted to get rid of the years of dirt, grease, and rust that covered them.

Time for new bearings, seals, and some paint. I'm hoping to get them on the axles next weekend and bring me that much closer to getting it all rolling.
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Well, its out of the garage for the first time in a year! Tossed on the grill and hood just to see how it sits.

I don't know why everyone isn't rolling on 30" tires...all the cool kids are doing it LOL I really need to decide on what tires I'm going to use on this thing, but I've got a nice set of H2 wheels waiting patiently for them.

...and since you can't even SEE it in that photo (which was the idea), my friend Justin did some great work bending me a radiator hoop that matches the YJ grill lines perfectly.

Still needs the rest of the engine cage finished up, cross braces etc...

Bachelor party next weekend, so don't expect any updates for a bit! :cheers:
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looks like it's going to be a sweat ride. keep the pictures coming.
Not much progress on getting it started, but the body is on and the coilovers are mounted with the lower springs on just to support the weight so I can roll it around.

Figured you guys would appreciate a few teaser pics I snapped while waiting for the first application of chassis coat to dry.

Gathering cooling system parts (hoses and tube) to get it ready to at least fire up by thanksgiving.

I need to find some spark plug wires that clear these headers, the L67 wires do not clear the headers, so I'm looking around for the recommended 3.8L Camaro wires that will clear the primaries. Anyone have a brand / part number they could recommend me? I could build my own, but I'm trying to avoid that option if the camaro wires will work.

Keep the comments coming!
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