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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm putting a gen 3 m90 blower on my NA 3800 and there are still a few parts that i need including the ignition coil bracket that has the pulleys for the supercharger and a fuel rail that will go overtop of the blower but also have the injectors going into the LIM . I've seen them both on zzperformance but only in the ss kit and when i emailed them to see if i could order these parts they replied telling me they cannot sell anything from the kit separately and i'm sure as hell not paying 1800 for those 2 parts.

I'm also still not sure what to do about the map sensor i have a map sensor out of an l67 but i'm sure it's not going to just plug in lol. I've seen a 2 bar map sensor from zzp too but i'm not sure where it would go considering it looks like my stock map sensor that goes overtop the pcv valve on the plenum.
 

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You'll need to get L67/L32 s/c heads to finish it up. They're not hard to install after cleaning them up and prepping the gasket surface. Bolts/gaskets are about $50-75 for stock/Felpro style, which works great on most builds of this type, including my own s/c engine.

The 2-bar MAP from 2003 & older are the flat rectangle style that needs an adapted harness (or rebuild yours with the new connector). The 2004+ cars got a 2-bar MAP that looks just like the L36/L26 ones, just a different part number. I run a 2004+ sensor in my turbo build, so it looks stock on the intake, but you can use either for a s/c setup.

ZZP sells the connector for $15 to run the rectangular sensor (or a plug-n-play adapter harness for $50, I guess). You'd just need to make the connections and peel back the wire loom/tape on the harness a bit to mount it on the rear of the s/c like an L67's.
11213


Here's an L32 2-bar that came on a 2004 GTP engine I just got. There's actually two on each car, since they also have a barometer sensor next to them, open to atmosphere.

11214
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
You'll need to get L67/L32 s/c heads to finish it up. They're not hard to install after cleaning them up and prepping the gasket surface. Bolts/gaskets are about $50-75 for stock/Felpro style, which works great on most builds of this type, including my own s/c engine.

The 2-bar MAP from 2003 & older are the flat rectangle style that needs an adapted harness (or rebuild yours with the new connector). The 2004+ cars got a 2-bar MAP that looks just like the L36/L26 ones, just a different part number. I run a 2004+ sensor in my turbo build, so it looks stock on the intake, but you can use either for a s/c setup.

ZZP sells the connector for $15 to run the rectangular sensor (or a plug-n-play adapter harness for $50, I guess). You'd just need to make the connections and peel back the wire loom/tape on the harness a bit to mount it on the rear of the s/c like an L67's.
View attachment 11213

Here's an L32 2-bar that came on a 2004 GTP engine I just got. There's actually two on each car, since they also have a barometer sensor next to them, open to atmosphere.

View attachment 11214
Thank you I will probably be buying the map sensor swap kit from zzp that also comes with the connector for the boost control solenoid. and if i were to get the l67 heads that still wouldn't solve my problem with the fuel rail considering the connectors on the ends of the fuel lines are different from an l36 to a l67. therefore i don't believe I could just take the stock fuel rails from either.
 

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The $50 kit from ZZP is mostly unnecessary, since you just need the MAP connector... (especially the boost bypass solenoid... We post about it probably 2-3x a month here, so I'll have to start copy-pasting in the info).

The heads are necessary for this swap to be completed the typical way, along with new rails (either find L67 ones used somewhere, or aftermarket logs from ZZP/classifieds/Aeromotive).

Connectors are the same (3/8" and 5/16" GM quick connect), it's just the routing of the L36 ones with the 90-degree bends make the routing a bit of a pain. Dorman has new straight-end hoses you can swap to, that are sold in stores cheap. They come with 18" of line to cut/replace your original ends and make them end in the right spot. I've played this game a couple times, and there's a variety of options.

11215
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The $50 kit from ZZP is mostly unnecessary, since you just need the MAP connector... (especially the boost bypass solenoid... We post about it probably 2-3x a month here, so I'll have to start copy-pasting in the info).

The heads are necessary for this swap to be completed the typical way, along with new rails (either find L67 ones used somewhere, or aftermarket logs from ZZP/classifieds/Aeromotive).

Connectors are the same (3/8" and 5/16" GM quick connect), it's just the routing of the L36 ones with the 90-degree bends make the routing a bit of a pain. Dorman has new straight-end hoses you can swap to, that are sold in stores cheap. They come with 18" of line to cut/replace your original ends and make them end in the right spot. I've played this game a couple times, and there's a variety of options.

View attachment 11215
so I don't even need the boost bypass solenoid? and ok what if i were to get this rail with these clips and the fuel line connector you sent since the stock lines i have probably aren't long enough
11216
o



Or gather up some parts like this and use the stock fuel rail? and if i'm swapping the heads won't I need to fully deconstruct and rebuild them when i'm putting them onto my motor? i'm not sure I have the skills for that lol that is why I was just going to buy the $400 LIM
11218
 

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Bottom line: buying an M90 ≠ having what you need for a top-swap. You're basically turning the top half of your engine above the block/pistons into an L67 with slightly higher compression. That's why there's a list that's pretty common on every 3800 site dealing with this.

That Milzy kit is the patch-worked way to do it (clamps & hoses, etc.). Those $10-15 Dorman parts hanging in the aisle of your local Advance/AutoZone are an easy process to do it correctly with OEM-style quality.

From ZZP, you'll need an L67-style rail if you don't have their custom-modified lower intake that adds L36 injector location holes to avoid swapping heads out. This is an oddball part, which is why I'm suggesting not chasing that path, in favor of the more universal and cheaper path of getting used OEM swap components.

The clips holding your injectors now are the same as the L67 uses, only your electrical connection may need adapting for that item. Those ones securing the quick connects will work on either GM rail.

There's no need to rebuild L67 heads to install them. If you buy some in good running condition, they can be installed as-is with a fresh gasket/bolt set. Being cast iron heads going on a cast iron block, they only require machining/prep for modification or porting, since warping only tends to occur under severe overheating issues.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
You'll need to get L67/L32 s/c heads to finish it up. They're not hard to install after cleaning them up and prepping the gasket surface. Bolts/gaskets are about $50-75 for stock/Felpro style, which works great on most builds of this type, including my own s/c engine.

The 2-bar MAP from 2003 & older are the flat rectangle style that needs an adapted harness (or rebuild yours with the new connector). The 2004+ cars got a 2-bar MAP that looks just like the L36/L26 ones, just a different part number. I run a 2004+ sensor in my turbo build, so it looks stock on the intake, but you can use either for a s/c setup.

ZZP sells the connector for $15 to run the rectangular sensor (or a plug-n-play adapter harness for $50, I guess). You'd just need to make the connections and peel back the wire loom/tape on the harness a bit to mount it on the rear of the s/c like an L67's.
View attachment 11213

Here's an L32 2-bar that came on a 2004 GTP engine I just got. There's actually two on each car, since they also have a barometer sensor next to them, open to atmosphere.

View attachment 11214
How would i go about wiring the connectors into the harness?
 
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