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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This applies to my little bracket racer.

Right now I have 160 T stat and on most passes don't let the engine get too hot. I think when the engine does get hotter the KR kicks in....

My Questions....

1 Jumping on the throttle from idle. Will I get any KR ?

2 Loading it up to 2000 rpm Will that give me KR?

3 At what temp could the engine be more sensitive to Knock?

4 If I were to run the engine cool with good gas and with lots of rear gear could I possibly dumb the sensors down any possible way?
 

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Running it cooler will help. when it comes to hot rod applications, running cooler is nicer to the engine over all. However, do some warm up time so you get better oil flow internally. Normally when you want to know specifics about KR, one would need a scanner of some type to see that info. It is a good thing to do just in case you are close to the edge on tune. If KR gets bad enough, you can trash an engine under heavy accel/loads.

It would be most beneficial to know what car it came out of and also are all the computer controls still functional and does the car have an ALDL....that is a data link for looking at the computer controls and other information the engine is doing. Guess that's about all I can say from what I/we know at this point.

On another note, once you have identified the engine specifics, you could talk to DYNO TUNE MOTOR SPORTS and see if they can tune the PCM(computer) for your ride.....and doing that safely! Jake

PS did you ever have a chance to talk to the previous owner for these types of specifics??
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Running it cooler will help. when it comes to hot rod applications, running cooler is nicer to the engine over all. However, do some warm up time so you get better oil flow internally. Normally when you want to know specifics about KR, one would need a scanner of some type to see that info. It is a good thing to do just in case you are close to the edge on tune. If KR gets bad enough, you can trash an engine under heavy accel/loads.

It would be most beneficial to know what car it came out of and also are all the computer controls still functional and does the car have an ALDL....that is a data link for looking at the computer controls and other information the engine is doing. Guess that's about all I can say from what I/we know at this point.

On another note, once you have identified the engine specifics, you could talk to DYNO TUNE MOTOR SPORTS and see if they can tune the PCM(computer) for your ride.....and doing that safely! Jake

PS did you ever have a chance to talk to the previous owner for these types of specifics??
Previous owner knew nothing about the car. I just recently discovered it was a Y87 package. So it has a higher stall converter and 3.42 gears.... I don't think the pcm has been touched.
 

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I would like to see some study on cooling the fuel itself down, I am willing bet it has a much more dramatic effect on power and KR than cooling intake air down.

Cooling intake air helps yes, but at WOT and higher speeds (>40 mph) the underhood air drops dramatically. My 91 Cadillac Deville 4.9L had a MAT sensor, Manifold Absolute Temperature. Nothing I could do affected intake air temp except closing the throttle. Closing it, no matter what, intake air temps climb rapidly. Even drawing underhood hot air at WOT really has minimal effect after a couple seconds and getting some vehicle speed up. Closing the throttle, temps skyrocket, upwards 150F easily in 60F and cooler temps.

Fooling the IAT (Intake Air Temp) is worthless to do, causes driveability issues if anything. But it is far before the MAF, which part of the MAF calculations is reading temp, some MAF's like the LS1/LS6 MAF use that IAT sensor for the PCM.

So look at devising a way to cool the fuel down. Old school we used cool can's that had a coil that was soaked in ice water. The problem is the TIME to sit in the ice water is short when at WOT. You need a lot of cooling. Pumping the fuel alone will heat it up. There is a time/surface area/flow relationship.
 
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