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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was just wondering how much how much the stage 1x CAM PACKAGE would help my car?? My mods are SLP headers, Borla exhaust, no cat(3"pipe w/ electric cutout instead), 8.5 MSD wires, Bosch Platinum plugs, Intense modular pulley system w/ 3.4/3.2 pulleys, Speedbuilt 3" FWI w/ 9" K&N, and Intense standard PCM. I will also be changing my plugs to the autolight 103's, and droping to a 3.0" pulley when I get the s1x cam package. Remember it is the package not just the cam. I am curious about the horse gains, I know no one is going to know exact but an estimate would be appreciated. Thanks.
 

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I would appriciate a list of all things necessary for a swap. AS in, a complete list of upgraded items needed, gaskets, etc.... I know there's a cam kit, and lifters, choice of cam, and so on. and possibly an estimated ammount of $$$ to complete the swap. Christmas is coming ! :)
 

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this is what i spent for my stage 1 install

cam $300. + 105# springs $130 + OR push rods $97 + install kit $90 + coolant $15 + oil $20 = $675 ish in parts + labour (8hrs or so).

I think that's all
 

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a 3.0 may still be a little small for an s1x cam. I know of several cars that cannot go that small with that cam. I would scan and go from there.
 

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You always want to scan your car especially if you change pulley sizes.
Do you have headers? if not you may want to look into a set.

HP gains are quite alot. I dont have an definetly numbers just what my car dynoed at and other cars. The cam has power but its not a big cam so you dont have that huge lope that the bigger cams do.

Money wise is going to be all your parts which when you order you will see yoru numbers. The X factor is labor. You are digging way into yor engine so there is going to be a lot of labor involved. So you will have to find a shop that will do it for one thing and then not charge you your first born to do the work.

Lets use Intense as an example.
S1X package $1500, labor $500 + materials. So roughly $2000 + tax.
 

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I went from a [email protected] mph with 1.9:1 rockers, PCM, 3.25 pulley, and all air management upgrades. To [email protected] mph with the stage1x package. With ported and polished SC and intake manifold, 3.0 pulley, etc. What I like about this cam is the street drivability with the heavy jump it has at WOT. I thnk Merc was real close on his cost estimate. I think the labor will be more like $700. - $800. But, it honestly is just not that difficult to do the swap yourself. I'm not going to tell you it's as easy as a pulley swap. But, it's pretty straight forward, no bobby traps along the way.
 

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If I can get a better understanding or instructions of how to get the engine out of the car I will doit in a heart beat. DO you need to get the tranny out also? I dont think so, wright?
 

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Cam - $300
Springs - $130/$100
Ti Retainers - $130/$80
Lifters - $160/$120
Pushrods - $96
Gaskets - $80
Coolant/Oil - $40
Labor - $500
Timing Chain/Tensioner - $30

~$1500

I might be forgetting something major, lol...

Shop the classifieds if you like, I picked up a lot of new items there for a lot cheaper, I indicated the price next to the new price. This was also awhile back when they were less abundant, there's more out there now that more people are doing cams.
 

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so for about the same ammount of money, you ca nbuy an IC. which would you benefit more from? go farther with production wise??
 

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You can take the engine out if you want but, you don't have to. The cam will come out thru the passenger wheel well. Just drop the engine cradle by about 5 or 6 inches and, wahla.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks. I am more interested in how much it will help my car I know how much it costs, that extra how much was a typeo. I have a friend of mine that has a shop and he is going to help me do the install. My car runs about a 13.5-13.8 im not 100% sure because I have not been able to get to a track. I'm just hoping that the package will put me down closer to the 12 range,12's would me great though :D .
 

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You should hit the 12's on a good run low 13's on a normal run. With the upgrades you have now a cam will make them come alive. Do yourself a favor and replace the stock rockers with some good aluminum roller rockers, if your finances allow. The more you do while you've got it apart the better off you'll be once you get it back up and running. Your not going to want to go back into it over something you should have changed when you had it apart.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I am planning on getting the hole package I think the roller rockers are included in that, aren't they?
 

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Roller rockers aren't really cost effective if you just plan on 12's. They will provide a few hp over stock rockers, but not enough to justify $400. If you are already getting springs and retainers you are taking care of the valve float problem.
 

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If you buy the package you will get everything you need. They do recommend a special puller to get the crank pulley off though. So look into that before you start. I had access to the GM pulley tool, so I don't know how a standard pulley tool will work. Also, I feel aluminum roller rockers are worth the investment. The advantage is not so much HP gains as it is a pushrod gains. Using OR or LW pushrods help keep that oil in the block and out of the head. You need very little oil with roller rockers. As far as the money, well, HP is expensive isn't it? Are the rockers worth the money? I guess it depends on how you look at it. Is .5-.6 of a sec. over a whole quartermile mile worth $1200.? Thats about what we're talking here.
 

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tan said:
As far as the money, well, HP is expensive isn't it? Are the rockers worth the money? I guess it depends on how you look at it. Is .5-.6 of a sec. over a whole quartermile mile worth $1200.? Thats about what we're talking here.
True, but having roller rockers over the stock ones aren't going to net you much. But they do look nice!
 

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Those are some nice times your running. Is that low 12 the norm or the best of the best? You've got to be shaking some heads on the street. I imagine you do real well on Saturday night cruises.
 

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I went from a 13.48 to a 12.92 after I had the S1X installed. I kept the stock springs, retainers, etc... because I knew I was going to get INTENSE Stage 2 ported heads, which I just did.

The S1X cam is well worth every penny.

I'm putting in the stage 2 blower cam in tomorrow.
 

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If you buy the package you will get everything you need. They do recommend a special puller to get the crank pulley off though. So look into that before you start. I had access to the GM pulley tool, so I don't know how a standard pulley tool will work
What tool would this be? I thought it was a bolt holding the crank pully on. The SC pulley you need a pulley tool cause its pressed on.

Also Clint is running his times on a turbo :D
 

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The crank pulley is also pressed on. The configuration of the pulley is really a double pulley. The GM pulley tool uses 3 m6 SHCS to go into the 3 holes you see on your pulley, to remove it. I don't know if you can get a standard pulley puller behind it to get it off. A crank pulley (harmonic balancer) runs around $175.00 a GM pulley tool costs about $120.00. So if you bend or in any way damage the pulley by using the wrong pulley tool your going to get hit with a double whammy. If this becomes a problem let me know, maybe we can work something out as far as using the one I have.
 
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