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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Me and a buddy of mine installed a 50 shot wet kit on his car yesterday and we can't even tell the difference. It kind of hesitate for a split second and then it really doesn't go feel any different than without it. I drilled and tapped the throttlebody on the pad that says hitachi behind the tps so it wouldn't spray into the maf and damage it. Can anyone tell me if they could feel the difference with a 50 shot. Also what jets are you supposed to use. He bought the kit used and it only had nozzles for a 100 shot. I don't know which ones he is using but he got them from a local speed shop. Shouldn't it be making like 50 more whp since it doesn't have an intercooler.
 

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You could also be seeing some major KR. Were you guys scanning during the runs? You typically have to either run less boost or less timing when spraying, compared to not spraying.
 

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Jacob,

The hesitation is most likely a leaning that he's experiencing when the nitrous first comes in. You really should be scanning. As to whether you should feel it, absolutely! When I was running a 60 shot, the difference in pull was significant. The jetting for a 50 hit will vary depending on the brand of the nitrous system. His best bet would be to contact the nitrous system's manufacturer and get guidelines from them on the jetting. Make sure he tells them that it's for a high pressure (fuel injected) fuel system. The jetting he got from the other guy could have been spec'ed for a low pressure (carb) system.

John
 

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Make sure your jetting is correct.

Make sure your bottle is filled up, and has enough pressure. 800PSI is about what you want. Make sure the bottle is installed correclty.

Make sure your plugs are gapped down....way down. .035" is what your looking at, but the idea is to run the largest gap possible with out misfires. If you have a sanner you can do this, no scanner gap them at .035" and call it good.

Make sure the system is hooked up correctly. No leaks, loose fittings, so on.

Tell us what brand and system number you have so we can better help you out.

I can answer questions for the NOS (Holly Brand) Nitrous System pretty good. Thats what I have.

~Farnsworth~
 

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Hey guys, Jacob directed me to this forum since he is at work and I'll be helping our friend out. Here is what we have thus far:

The car has
- a 3.25 pulley
- the colder range plugs that Intense reccomends for the pulley size(forget what it is..whatever the autolite # is)
-SLP headers
-custom cold air intake
-2.5 exhuast
-no cat

I own a wideband o2 sensor, and shortly we are going to be hooking that up to his car to see what the O2's are doing. I actually suspected the lean condition or misfire when he first told me about it yesterday, but I wasnt in a position to help out any. I've had the wideband on his car before, and it runs 11.0-11.2:1 and as the RPM's rise so do AF's and it touches 12:1 right at redline. What do these things run stock? I know the car picks up a bit of knock via the OBDII scantool without the nitrous, though I'm not sure if its real or not... 12:1 seems a little lean for an OEM forced induction tune when comparing it to the SRT4 neons, DSM's, EVO, turbo RX7s, and basically any other OEM forced induction car that I know the oem AF on. Then again though, those are all turbo cars so it may not apply directly....

What kind of IGN timing should he be running with the 50 shot and this setup? I've really no idea what stock is,(anyone?) and the only experience I have with IGN timing tuning is on DOHC turbo 4 cylinders, which I wouldnt imagine would apply well given the different power adder source, and different combustion chamber architectures. I'm thinking though that stock timing is probably a "no-no"? How do we turn down timing? (have to buy something or are the any known "hacks"?)

Yeah, long post and alot of questions there I know... :(
I've always worried that our friend would blow his motor up *if* he ever got nitrous, so I'm trying to err on the side of safety more than on the side of max power.

Thanks anyone that answers :)

-Bryan
 

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crash41301 said:
Hey guys, Jacob directed me to this forum since he is at work and I'll be helping our friend out. Here is what we have thus far:

The car has
- a 3.25 pulley
- the colder range plugs that Intense reccomends for the pulley size(forget what it is..whatever the autolite # is)
-SLP headers
-custom cold air intake
-2.5 exhuast
-no cat

I own a wideband o2 sensor, and shortly we are going to be hooking that up to his car to see what the O2's are doing. I actually suspected the lean condition or misfire when he first told me about it yesterday, but I wasnt in a position to help out any. I've had the wideband on his car before, and it runs 11.0-11.2:1 and as the RPM's rise so do AF's and it touches 12:1 right at redline. What do these things run stock? I know the car picks up a bit of knock via the OBDII scantool without the nitrous, though I'm not sure if its real or not... 12:1 seems a little lean for an OEM forced induction tune when comparing it to the SRT4 neons, DSM's, EVO, turbo RX7s, and basically any other OEM forced induction car that I know the oem AF on. Then again though, those are all turbo cars so it may not apply directly....

What kind of IGN timing should he be running with the 50 shot and this setup? I've really no idea what stock is,(anyone?) and the only experience I have with IGN timing tuning is on DOHC turbo 4 cylinders, which I wouldnt imagine would apply well given the different power adder source, and different combustion chamber architectures. I'm thinking though that stock timing is probably a "no-no"? How do we turn down timing? (have to buy something or are the any known "hacks"?)

Yeah, long post and alot of questions there I know... :(
I've always worried that our friend would blow his motor up *if* he ever got nitrous, so I'm trying to err on the side of safety more than on the side of max power.

Thanks anyone that answers :)

-Bryan
Stock timing on a 50 shot is fine. I have ran into issues of bad N2O, we got 2 bad tanks from my supplier. I was at no end, then a few other friends whose bottles I filled from same tanks complianed about slight to no effect , I refilled all bottles from differant tank and everything was grand.
 

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crash41301 said:
Hey guys, Jacob directed me to this forum since he is at work and I'll be helping our friend out. Here is what we have thus far:

The car has
- a 3.25 pulley
- the colder range plugs that Intense reccomends for the pulley size(forget what it is..whatever the autolite # is)
-SLP headers
-custom cold air intake
-2.5 exhuast
-no cat

I own a wideband o2 sensor, and shortly we are going to be hooking that up to his car to see what the O2's are doing. I actually suspected the lean condition or misfire when he first told me about it yesterday, but I wasnt in a position to help out any. I've had the wideband on his car before, and it runs 11.0-11.2:1 and as the RPM's rise so do AF's and it touches 12:1 right at redline. What do these things run stock? I know the car picks up a bit of knock via the OBDII scantool without the nitrous, though I'm not sure if its real or not... 12:1 seems a little lean for an OEM forced induction tune when comparing it to the SRT4 neons, DSM's, EVO, turbo RX7s, and basically any other OEM forced induction car that I know the oem AF on. Then again though, those are all turbo cars so it may not apply directly....

What kind of IGN timing should he be running with the 50 shot and this setup? I've really no idea what stock is,(anyone?) and the only experience I have with IGN timing tuning is on DOHC turbo 4 cylinders, which I wouldnt imagine would apply well given the different power adder source, and different combustion chamber architectures. I'm thinking though that stock timing is probably a "no-no"? How do we turn down timing? (have to buy something or are the any known "hacks"?)

Yeah, long post and alot of questions there I know... :(
I've always worried that our friend would blow his motor up *if* he ever got nitrous, so I'm trying to err on the side of safety more than on the side of max power.

Thanks anyone that answers :)

-Bryan
Stock timing on a 50 shot is fine. I have ran into issues of bad N2O, we got 2 bad tanks from my supplier. I was at no end, then a few other friends whose bottles I filled from same tanks complianed about slight to no effect , I refilled all bottles from differant tank and everything was grand. Also to rich with n2o could be a problem.best thing to do is llike others here mentioned and scan it to see what is happening during a pass.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well my buddy hooked up the wideband and it was so rich it was off the scale. The bottle pressure was only at around 700psi so they installed his bottle warmer and tried it again with ~800 psi. It did the trick and the can definitly feel it. The afr went up to 10.3. What would a safe number be for his combo. I have heard 11.2 is a good number with his combo. Also haven't hooked up the scanner so no more tuning till that is done. If it is not knocking we are going to lean it out a little more and see what happens.
 

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Jacob,

For what it's worth, I think 800 is still too low. I don't think you said what brand system you have? I run NX and it's spec'ed to run at a pressure of 950 to 1050. As a matter of fact, my bottle warmer has a pressure sensitive transducer to regulate the pressure, and it too keeps the pressure at 950 to 1050. An AFR of 10.3 is still a little rich. 11.2 is a good target for a blown/juiced motor. If you start to get KR, then pull timing.

Soemone asked what KR is. KR is the amount of timing that the PCM pulls when it detects detonations.

John
 

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Bottle pressure was ~900 jacob ;)

When the nitrous initially comes on it pegs my wideband rich (which is supposidly only accurate between 10:1 and 20:1) reading 9.8:1 or so, then going to 10.0:1, as RPM's rise it works its way to 10.3:1 at the leanest near redline. Deffinatly overly rich. When the bottle pressure was low without the heater it showed 9.0-9.6:1 on the juice. FAR too rich, but then again far too low a bottle pressure as well.

I dont know what model the wet kit is, but it is a NOS brand system.
 

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if it was running that rich try dropping back 1 size on the fuel jet and see if it does any better,

if you are running stock timing I do not think thta would be an issue , i ran 75 on stock timing even 100 afew times except on the 100 shot I was running 100 octane
 

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FastFiero said:
The bottle pressure was only at around 700psi so they installed his bottle warmer and tried it again with ~800 psi.
With a 75 shot, I gained 3 tenths in the 1/8th mile just from heating the bottle from 700psi to 1000psi.
 

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It is important with bottle pressure.
My mate has Subaru RS Liberty over here in Oz (model before WRX) and we installed a nitrous system.
He didn't want to spend the $ on a heater or gauge.
Didn't pick up much power at all. He was very disappointed with the result.
We went home and put the bottle in the laundry tub with some hot water in it.
Bottle back in and what a difference!
Got to about 3000rpm and then floored it and all 4 wheels spun with just a 50hp jet.
Was just the normal 2 litre or liter for you Americans.. with exhaust and 16psi boost.
He went and bought a heater......
The correct pressure is so important.
If 900psi gives you good air/fuel ratios, then stick to it. Doesn't matter what psi as long as ratios are safe.
Mine is running 10.5-1. Loses a bit of HP but safe. Still good for 2.2 seconds off the 1/4 for me!
 
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