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Discussion Starter #61
Again...if there is any sticking out, you wont make a good seal.. It will leak.
 

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Discussion Starter #63
The plate is machined so that it fits tight against the block. You dont need to use syl on the parts, just use the gasket provided by GM....with nothing sticking ouy.
 

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I think you should post a pic of exactly what you did. I don't understand where you have room to put any aluminum plate. The hole in the block is maybe only 1/2" by 3/4" necking down to the 1/4" hole for the oiling; and the feed trench in the rear cover is pretty small also. I can understand if you had a chunk of aluminum you stuck in there and jb welded it, but that still doesn't explain anything hanging out to the point where the rear gasket won't seal.

There should be no need for RTV at all back there. The rear gasket should seal just fine between the block and rear cover. If anything is making it stick out so it won't seal, then something is very wrong. I would definitely be careful with this- if that rear cover doesn't sit flat- your rear main won't seal; and your two main oil galleries will have a direct leak off of them; could quickly turn into a blown motor by robbing the important parts of oil.

How come you didn't just tap the hole rather than fill it with stuff?
 

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Discussion Starter #65
I hope he did not permanently hurt the rear cover.
 

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sorry, but isnt that what the Red RTV is for? to fill in a gap
You must be explaining something wrong; if everything is done right, there would not be any need for rtv since the normal rear gasket will seal just fine- no gaps anywhere.
 

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this is on the back of the block. the oil hole (circled in red) was on the upper side of the bearing
so it would be above the balance shaft
(thats how it was on mine anyways)
I plugged it with JB weld
 

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Here is where he plugged his up with a threaded allen bolt
I didnt tap mine and plug it with a bolt like he did. Wish I had. I only used alot of JB Weld



so altogether there are 4 holes to plug!
I'm no expert or anything just want to confirm with everyone that there are 4 holes to plug.
 

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post #69 is the first hole needing to be plugged
post #71 is the second hole that needs plugging
and of course when you take out the balance shaft its gonna leave that huge
2" diameter hole open...
thats 4 holes that need a good plugging
 

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why would u bother with plugging/capping the 2in holes that are left when the balance shaft is removed?
then entire valley is a sealed off area. by the front and rear covers..

serves no purpose if the oiling hole is plugged.

maybe somebody could chime in on this.

EDIT> if u removed the rear press fit bearing that would only leave 1 oiling hole in the block that need to be plugged.

heck. even if u left the bearing in and plugged the feed hole in the back of the block it serves the same purpose....
 

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Discussion Starter #74
Jon, you only need to plug off the hole you have the pics of....NO where els is it needed.
 

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Discussion Starter #76
Post #71. That is the only "cingular" hole you need to plug. Simply go back to the very first post and read throught it again.
 

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post #69 is the first hole needing to be plugged
post #71 is the second hole that needs plugging
and of course when you take out the balance shaft its gonna leave that huge
2" diameter hole open...
thats 4 holes that need a good plugging

There is only 1 hole to plug, thats it. You have to think of how the oil flows in the system. It comes down that long hole all the way through the center of the block, hits the rear cover to jump to the matching oil hole all the way down the other side. Due to the design of the rear cover, it has that little bit that takes oil off this and feeds it to the hole in post #71. From there, the oil is fed to the rear balance shaft bearing and is left to dribble back into the lifter valley.

So you plug the hole in post 71- drill and tap it; I'd be afraid jbweld or rtv would come loose eventually and end up floating around the engine.

That way, if its plugged, the hole in post 69 won't ever see oil.

The actual 2" bearing holes in the front and back DO NOT need plugged. The rear should stay dry because you tapped and plugged its oil feed- the rear side is sealed off by the rear main cover. The front bearing isn't going to make a difference if its plugged or not, because oil is supposed to be all over that area anyways, and there is no pressurized oil in that area anyways. If nothing else, not plugging it might be better because then you might get a few spatters of oil to dribble onto the timing chain before going back to pan instead of dropping on the cam.
 

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I was told to plug the hole in post # 69 so that I would get a little more oil pressure. But I understand what you all are saying and it all makes since.
So just 1 thing to plug on the rear
 

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I was told to plug the hole in post # 69 so that I would get a little more oil pressure. But I understand what you all are saying and it all makes since.
So just 1 thing to plug on the rear
yup just one plug...

 
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