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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
This article is for educational purposes.
I assume no responcibility if you blow your crap up.

Ok a lot of controversy has swirled around the removal of the balance shaft. So I will try and answer all the questions here.

1. CAN I DELETE MY BALANCE SHAFT WITHOUGHT HURTING THE FACTORY BALANCE?

The short answer is yes.

Originally posted by Turbocharged400sbc
the balance shaft was added to the 3800 engine line to cancel out second and third order harmonic vibrations (this was ONLY for NVH standards) and does not affect rotating assembly balance by its removal, the vibration is noticable but not bad (dont know about solid engine mounts though)

in the center the balance shaft has perfect static balance, but at the ends the dynamic balance is off since this shaft spins at crank speed it offsets the roughness of the crank counterweights in reducing the 2nd and 3rd order vibrations (also includes the moment of inertia of different parts of the crank if i recall, which is what the balance shaft is compensating for)
so removal of the balance shaft does not affect the rotating assembly balance...though having your bottom end blueprint balanced is always nice...the oem's never balanced these engines less than ~5gms out. so getting it to within 1gm would be better regardless
Do not get onfused about the balances. The rotating balance consist the crank, rods, flex plate, and harmonic balancer. The basic use of the balance shaft was to limit the after affects of the vibrations created by a normally opperating engine. Remember the engineers dont go for POWER they go for smoothness and ride quality. You may notice a slight change up to 1800RPM. But withought a cam, I highly doubt you would even know that it had been removed. So you can remove the balance shaft and have no detriental affects on the rotating balance.

2. DO I HAVE TO HAVE THE ENGINE OUT OF THE CAR?
No or yes, either way the balance shaft can be removed relatiely easily.

3. HOW DO I PLUG THE OIL GALLEY HOLE?
Several methods are discuse in this article, you may decide which fits better for you.




This information has been floating around for a while, I thought that some aspecs should be addressed.
Originally Posted by rcdiver
There are a couple of options for dilling with the oil feed from the balance shaft.

1) leave it in and disable with pulling the gear
2)pull it and tap it and plug it
3) Remove the bearing and weld it
4) cut the End of the shaft off and weld it in place (still allows oil to come out at same rate as if stock, but no shaft/weight
5)hammer a 1-1/8" copper plumbers cap into the hole
6) pull bearing and press in a cam bearing from a Dodge 440 with the oil feed rotated 180*


I personally used #6..My machinist said this was the best way and not permanatly alter the block....also was cheaper than having the machine shop tap the block ($5 to press inthe bearing)

I am going to try and break these down as to the do's and dont's pf them.

#1 - you can do that, its your choice, but if you have the whole front end down enough to take off the gear, then why not pull out the shaft....

#2. - YES thats what I did, illustrations below. Because there is a lot of small metal shavings created with this process, I would only reccomend this one with the engine completely dissambled.

#3 - Remove the berring and weld it--? come on! how many of you own welders that are capable of welding Iron? Much less have the knowlege how to do this? Welding can warp, damage, distort, break loose, and leave about 20 times the nastiness and small metal particles then tapping and pluging. Whatever you do - DONT DO THIS OPTION. There a are so many risk to this process I cant possible count them.

#4 - again - Come on again!.....Why do you want the oil to flow at the same rate? Again Way to many risks. YOU DONT WANT TO WELD ON THE BLOCK UNLESS YOU HAVE TO......

#5 - I dont see why this would not work. However you may run a greater risk of the oil pressure backing it out. This in effect would be the same thing as a factory oil galley plug. They do run a small risk of backing out. I have replaced numerous heads because they lost oil pressure and kept driving the car.

Below will illustrate how to plug your oild feed hole, with the engine in and out of the car.

Ok I will assume you have your engine down. and ready to remove the balance shaft. The removal is preaty much straight forward, so I wont spend a lot of time on the dissambly to get to this point. After removing your timing chain - Pull off the big timing gear behind the chain gear. Under the small gear on the balance shaft you will see a Snap ring. Remove the snap ring and simply, and very gently tap forward on the shaft until it comes out. Once you have removed the shaft you will see the bering in the back of the block (Ballance shaft berring pic)PIC below You will need to remove this. Two ways to do this

1. IN THE CAR - rent a thrust berring puller from Auto Zone and pull it out.
2. OUT OF CAR - get a Socket or berring driver and drive it out the back. bal ( Bal shaft berr removal) PIC below

Once this the bering is removed. I will show you two ways to plug the oil hole. In the car and out.

1. IN THE CAR - cam berring plug
(Mopar berring comparison)PIC below

Chrysler 440 Small cam berring is .004 bigger and can be used. You will need a cam berring installer, or a seal installer. Freez the berring in the freezer overnight, and if possible heat the block up with a tourch. Simply place the berring in, make sure the oil hole i 180' from the oil hole, set it in propper position and hammer or press it in. You can find the special tools at auto zone or rent.

2. OUT OF THE CAR. - Tap and plug.

Your block should be bare. Place several towles in the valley tray to catch any small metal particles. Remove the berring as described above. Using a 3/8-16 Tap and Allen tool plug. Tap the hole from the back of the Block. (tap into oil feed hole)PIC below Once tapped place a small amount of tefflon and LOCK tite and screw into the block. Get it as tight as you can. (Plug completed install) PIC below

Finally PLEASE clean and scrub the block. And when you are done...WASH IT AGAIN...Do not negelct the cleaning process.
If any one has any quesions please ask.






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Discussion Starter #2
More pisc for refference.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Sorry, No I used the plug, I didn't have a driver to install the cam berring. There are only pro's to the cam berring, The con would be it is kinda hard to install.
 

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so there is only 1 hole to plug? the oil feed hole which is on the outside REAR of the engine, (next to the balance shaft bearing)?

want me to delete these posts?

edit: added "REAR" instead of "front"
 

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Discussion Starter #6
No don't delete them. Good questions. Yes there is only one rear holeto block. It is in the pics.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
What? I think what you are reffering to is an oil mod done by intense racing.

Maybie some one will step in on this question.
 

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Actually, according to both intense, and Hickernell (the place that does intense's engines), they said that the oil mod is a requirement. Apparantly, plugging that balance shaft oil hole stops oil from going somewhere that it still needs to get to. The external oil mod fixes this problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
.....:newbie: :hail:GURU..... Accually you are wrong. Not a requirement. Apparantly you dont know the directional flow of the oil galleys. The oil is supplied to the balance shaft through the rear lifter oil galley and goes through a gasket created passage to the rear balance shaft. The only place the oil goes from there is out to the valley drain hole and back to the pan.
 

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donniearcher said:
Accually you are wrong. Not a requirement. Apparantly you dont know the directional flow of the oil galleys. The oil is supplied to the balance shaft through the rear lifter oil galley and goes through a gasket created passage to the rear balance shaft. The only place the oil goes from there is out to the valley drain hole and back to the pan.
Where is your proof?
sounds like oil is mainly only staying in the rear valley galley. so the front balance shaft bearing doesnt get lubed?
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Correct, the front is lubed by timing chain and splash. Thats why the front it a complete roller berring.

djweisman I could see how you would be confused, but this is DIRECT from intenses wed sight...... QUOTE.

The double row set is designed ONLY for engines with the factory balance shaft removed. The balance shaft oil feed hole at the rear of the engine MUST be plugged for this timing chain kit to be used. Originally, the double roller fit is very tight and it seems that a timing chain dampener is not needed. Our experience however has shown that the chain stretches just enough that a timing chain dampener is still warranted in our opinoin.

:hail:GURU...
 

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Hmm....interesting. So what exactly is happening with my oiling setup? I have a 4AN line running from the oil filter adapter up to the rear front of the block. Are you saying that I can delete this oil mod? What is the advantage of keeping it? All this time I thought it was a requirement - I don't understand.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
To be honest with you, I don't know what yours is for. Are you using the intense lond block? One of the other guys will come in on it. But I do know its not a requirement to delete the shaft.

OOOO James...
 

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djweisman said:
Hmm....interesting. So what exactly is happening with my oiling setup? I have a 4AN line running from the oil filter adapter up to the rear front of the block. Are you saying that I can delete this oil mod? What is the advantage of keeping it? All this time I thought it was a requirement - I don't understand.
remember what i was refering to about pressure side oiling mods donnie...

see what some of the GN guys are doing oiling wise on the pressure side...they also use this trick on the buick/olds V8's, AMC and others to gaurantee fast lubrication to the mains...indealy you want the mains to get all the oil (crank feeds the rods), then the cam bearings, lifters, rockers, valvesprings and valves...

I would be interested to see where the line runs? pics?
In my idea i was looking at a 3/8 inch hardline with 45* SAE Flares

BTW was there anything done to the pump suction side? the oil pump pickup? external pan sump?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Tim please explain further, or post some pics. Did you buy the car this way?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Ok Tim king said it was just what I thought it was, it is a oil fed line to the lifter valley to get more drain down.
 

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So it's not a requirement for the balance shaft delete? That goes against all previous information that I have regarding the balance shaft delete mod. I want to see that in writing from someone, that way in case I delete that line, and something blows up, I know who to talk to. It's funny how various people that work for the same place all have a different answer (Scott Cook said that it was a requirement 2 years ago, and so did Big Jeff [when he still worked for Intense]). I tried to call Hickernell today for more info, but they are out of business (number is disconnected). Hmmmm............

Sorry I didn't get a chance to post any pictures, do you still want to see them?

This is the stock block that was modified with the balance shaft delete mod, and at the time, the supposed requirement to do the external oil line mod.

This is all very, very interesting. :icon_conf
 

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Oh, I forgot, there wasn't anything done to the pump suction side, the oil pump pickup, or the external pan sump. I wouldn't run hardline - too much vibration and the chance for it to break. At a minimum, run rubber hose with hose barbs and clamps. Of course, that's not 100% reliable either - especially for an oil line. Pack your lunch a few times this month and buy flexible stainless line. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Yup, Tim said it was only for a race only block. That deleating the shaft is done exactly how I described. I dont know how old your set up is or anything about it, so Dont just take it out. Post some pics so we can tell where its going into and out of.
 
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