[doctorchillhvacmi]

How to remove downpipe studs?

Hello all,

I'm doing a head gasket replacement on my '07 Lacrosse with the 3800 in it. I've gotten pretty far: I've removed the bullet dog bone mounts (which will be replaced with ZZP mounts) and pulled the engine forward with a ratchet strap for a little more room. I'm also having trouble getting the back three sparkplug shields and rubber boots off the old spark plugs as well since the people who had the car before me never changed them. Any tips or suggestions would be great for that as well.

But my main issue is getting these downpipe studs out. There's literally minimal amount of space to get tools and hands in there. Going through the bottom proved to be very difficult as I don't have a lift, just a jack and stands. I've sprayed them down with PB Blaster which helped but I'm still having a heap of trouble even getting them loose.

I'm also curious to know if the rocker arm bolts are reusable or are they tourqe-to-yield bolts like the cylinder head bolts? I ordered a head stud kit from ZZP for the rebuild. I ordered rocker arm bolts too. I have Fel-Pro gaskets for the heads. I really want to replace the whole exhaust, manifolds and all from ZZP. If I need to cut it out I will. Heater core hoses are being replaced so I cut them for room and so they'll be easier to remove.

I've put a ton of work into painting the intake and valve covers, replacing lower and upper intake seals, valve cover gaskets and now head gaskets because it's leaking coolant on the exhaust. I want to save this engine and car. I also replaced the fuel rail which I went to a junkyard to get. It runs great but coolant leaks out on the left head by the firewall. I have to replace all three spark plugs and wires. I have steam on my exhaust manifold when the car runs.


Any rebuild tips are much needed and appreciated as I am doing this solo and have no one to help me personally.

Thanks!

 

[dezldave961]

Plugs/boots usually need some rocking around to release from the sides of the plug. You can try channellocks or other pliers to get a controlled grip on the boot to rock it around while pulling with slightly more leverage (control is the key, and the boots may still rip, if very stuck). Be sure to put dielectric grease on a fresh setup as it goes back together, for best chance next round, and anti-seize on the plug threads.

For the downpipe, underneath can permit you a longer extension and adapt up to a 1/2" drive for some leverage. Also, make sure to use 6-point sockets when fighting tight things like rusty exhaust bolts and nuts. From the top, you probably want to put a wrench on them (GearWrench, if you have it after breaking loose), and doing the double-wrench trick for leverage, as needed. The studs may come with the nuts, otherwise they're either 7mm (9/32") or 5.5mm (7/32"), if you are attempting to pull them after.

The rocker bolts that are 3/8" head are TTY, while the allen head ones are higher grade, and reusable. TTY ones usually come with their own thread locker paste and use factory torque spec/angle, while reusable allen heads need fresh loctite and go right to ~25ft-lbs once all are seated.

Hopefully, you get everything replaced that's causing your coolant leaks. Sounds like it might've gotten overheated and blown a HG, but that's easier for you to figure out in person.

 

[Jim R]

About the stuck plug boots, I agree completely with Dave. If they are extra stuck try inserting a thin screwdriver blade, (for instance a shirt pocket sized screw driver) as far as you can between the plug wire and the boot. Then shove the nozzle tube of your WD40 in the gap next to the screw driver, reattach the tube to the oil can and give a little spray. Pull out the tube and the screw driver and proceed to twist the boot back and forth till it starts sliding on the plug.
Harbor Freight makes a cheap set of hose and boot pliers that look like needle nose pliers with "C" shaped clamping surfaces at the end. They work good for reaching straight down to the stuck boot where there is little room to work.

 

[doctorchillhvacmi]

About the stuck plug boots, I agree completely with Dave. If they are extra stuck try inserting a thin screwdriver blade, (for instance a shirt pocket sized screw driver) as far as you can between the plug wire and the boot. Then shove the nozzle tube of your WD40 in the gap next to the screw driver, reattach the tube to the oil can and give a little spray. Pull out the tube and the screw driver and proceed to twist the boot back and forth till it starts sliding on the plug.
Harbor Freight makes a cheap set of hose and boot pliers that look like needle nose pliers with "C" shaped clamping surfaces at the end. They work good for reaching straight down to the stuck boot where there is little room to work.

Thank you for the tips! I actually ordered those exact pliers off Amazon but haven't used them yet. Winter has been tough but it's gonna let up soon and I can really get into it. It's been hard waiting for a decent day to work on it, I live in an apartment complex with no garage. Take care and thanks again!