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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This past sunday I took on this task and it wasnt as bad as i thought it would be. Thanks to CG and PIMP for the good advice they gave me!

All you need are jack stands, good floor jack with a wide jacking pad, 2x12 piece of wood, 15mm wrenches and a good pry bar.

Undo the upper engine mounts. Jack the front of the car up and place on jack stands. Remove front wheels. now you can see the mounts. The trans mount is very easy to see and access. The motor mount sits back further and is harder to get to.

Do one side at a time. I did not do this and I think doing one at a time will help keep the engine in place better.

Start with the harder of the 2 mounts, the engine mount. Under the car you will see 2 15 mm nuts, undo them and set aside. Under the crank pulley you will see the motor mount. Using a 15mm open end wrench, start undoing the nuts. I tried a small 15mm socket and you can get it started but as the nut comes up, you get stuck on the oil pan, so that dosnt work. A ratching wrench will work after you get the nut up far enough. Otherwise you are sitting there with a 1/4 turn on 2 nuts with an open end wrench. So be patient.

After you get the nuts off, place yoru jack with the wood on the jacking pad under the oil pan. Now be carful. You need the wood to distribute the weight of the engine so you dont dent or cave in your oil pan. That would be a bad thing. You will have to raise the engine quite a bit to get the mount out cause its sits in a recessed area in the frame. Jack slow. Since you are raising your engine alot be aware of anything that is attached, like your intake or strut tower bars. You may have to disconnect them.

After you get the old mount out, place the new mount in the frame and lower the engine slowly onto it. If all goes well it will line up and go right on. If it doesnt you will have to use a pry bar and move the engine to where you want it. We all know which one will happen. This takes some time cause you have to pry on strong parts only. Do not use the oil pan in this case! Use your head and you will massage the engine into place. This took most of my time here. I raised and lowered the engine many times before i got it right.

After you get the engine back on and the studs through the holes. Put the nuts back on. Again it will take time cause you have to use the open end wrench for the final turns.

Now the trans mount. Very easy. Here a ratching wrench can fit and so can a socket. So this one will go faster. Same process as the motoir mount but you dont have to go so high with the engine this time. Now I left the jack in the same place on the oil pan. Some have suggested to move to the edge of the tranny pan and oil pan. that is up to you if you wnat to try it, but since i did both mounts at the the same time I left mind under the oil pan. Do the same as the motor mount. Remove the 4 nuts, raise the engine, replace the mount and lower the engine. Again you may have to massage the engine in place. Reattach the nuts and tighten.

Lower the engine down and reattach your upper mounts. Now that the engine is sitting in its natural position, i went back and retightened all the nuts one last time. Dont go all He-man on them, but i did make them nice and tight.

Reattach your wheels and lower your car and now you are done.

You definetly want to becarful when useing the oil pan and tranny pan. The last thing you want to do is damage those. Use your head and definely use the wood.

I replaced my mounts with the ones NAPA sells. They are the hydrolic mounts. Very solid!

Also be aware that if your mounts were worn out and you use these, you may feel more vibration from you engine since it is sitting on a new mount and not a mushy worn out mount.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Sorry i didnt get to spell check it before i went to a meeting :p
 

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I just changed my lower engine mount using MERC's instructions... very helpful. I thought I would add my .02 for others who may be going to do this. Factory manuals make it sound like you must disassemble half the engine- not true. It was easy. Almost embarrassingly easy. I can't believe I almost paid someone $435 to put in a $40 mount.

I would add only a couple of items to MERC's instructions. I disconnected p/s line from frame next to lower mount cuz I was not sure if it might bind and it was only 1 extra screw. I used a 2x8 about 2 feet long and positioned it front to back on the oil pan right next to the lower mount. Board was long enough so weight was on both tranny pan as well as engine pan which I thought was better and it concentrated lifting force on the one side of engine I was tring to lift. (I left the tranny mount connected like MERC suggested to help engine stay in place.)

Now the big tip... start lifting very slowly and observe whether the mount studs try to bind toward front or back. If they do, lower jack and reposition opposite direction of bind untill you can get engine to lift straight off the mount studs. If you don't do this, the engine will lift off but will also move slightly forward or backward suddenly and this will make it much more difficult to re-install. (especially if you're working alone like me.) It's kind of hard to explain so hopefully this makes sense. If you take a few extra minutes and do this, the engine will lift off the mount freely without a sound. Then guess what? I put the new mount in and lowered the engine right back on! All I had to do was give a minor tap on one of the upper mount studs that was crooked and the engine dropped right on. I was so shocked I thought I messed something up.

I used NAPA solid rubber mount and I actually have LESS vibration than before. My stock mount must have really been bad, although it did not appear that way to my "untrained" eye.

Overall a very worthwhile repair/upgrade.
 

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Hi
Im in the middle of a engine swap on my 99 Intrigue 3.5
The motor mounts the intrigue have are
1 In the back of the trans
1 In the front
The one on top of the motor and one on the bottom behind the radiator

I noticed that most of the mounts are the same
The intrigue has the holes for the other upper mount so that will be perfect
The grand Prix has the same trans mount in the back and I can use the other trans mount to support the motor on the other side the thing I was wondering
is If the grand prix has a lower front mount

Please help me with this
 

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Grand Prix and other W Body cars with 3.8 V6 have 2 lower mounts. One is on passenger side under oil pan. Second is under tranny on driver side. My Intrigue is a 98 with 3.8... they started using the Northstar-based 3.5 in 99 and newer. I have no clue as to mounting similarities and/or differences.
 

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Merc and GOIA,
Thank You for the great write-up on this. The only thing I want to add is my mounts came from Autozone and the motor mount had a hard time going back into the original holes and I couldn't figure out why. WELL....the lower stud on the on the front bumper side of the motor mount had too much extra sheet metal around it and that was keeping it from going into place by hitting the frame. I broke out the angle grinder and cut off metal till it fit right in and it finally did. Maybe an 1/8th" had to be cut of but that was the problem.

Vinnie
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Glad yopu got them to work. I used the Napa mounts
 

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GOIA said:
I just changed my lower engine mount using MERC's instructions... very helpful. I thought I would add my .02 for others who may be going to do this. Factory manuals make it sound like you must disassemble half the engine- not true. It was easy. Almost embarrassingly easy. I can't believe I almost paid someone $435 to put in a $40 mount.

I would add only a couple of items to MERC's instructions. I disconnected p/s line from frame next to lower mount cuz I was not sure if it might bind and it was only 1 extra screw. I used a 2x8 about 2 feet long and positioned it front to back on the oil pan right next to the lower mount. Board was long enough so weight was on both tranny pan as well as engine pan which I thought was better and it concentrated lifting force on the one side of engine I was tring to lift. (I left the tranny mount connected like MERC suggested to help engine stay in place.)

Now the big tip... start lifting very slowly and observe whether the mount studs try to bind toward front or back. If they do, lower jack and reposition opposite direction of bind untill you can get engine to lift straight off the mount studs. If you don't do this, the engine will lift off but will also move slightly forward or backward suddenly and this will make it much more difficult to re-install. (especially if you're working alone like me.) It's kind of hard to explain so hopefully this makes sense. If you take a few extra minutes and do this, the engine will lift off the mount freely without a sound. Then guess what? I put the new mount in and lowered the engine right back on! All I had to do was give a minor tap on one of the upper mount studs that was crooked and the engine dropped right on. I was so shocked I thought I messed something up.

I used NAPA solid rubber mount and I actually have LESS vibration than before. My stock mount must have really been bad, although it did not appear that way to my "untrained" eye.

Overall a very worthwhile repair/upgrade.

I just followed Merc's instructions and used the tips above. I had previously replace the tranny mount with a ZZP Poly prototype so I was only doing the lower motor mount. The tip about relocating the jack until there is no binding is a hot tip. This was a piece of cake, when I lowered the car back onto the mount it just went right on, no prying on anything with a pry bar or anything. Merc, Great instructions and GOAI, great additional tips. Thanks!
 

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Ray, try to get the solid mounts. The hydraulic mounts are essentially stock and are prone to failure.
We currently stock the solid mounts if that is what you are looking for.
 

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BumpinGTP said:
Ray, try to get the solid mounts. The hydraulic mounts are essentially stock and are prone to failure.
We currently stock the solid mounts if that is what you are looking for.
Agreed, I went with poly for the trans mount and solid rubber for the lower motor mount. The stock hydraulic mount on my 2002 with about 44000 on it was beginning to crack so it was only a matter of time.
 

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FYI, forget NAPA. Their Balkamp parts are just repackaged Pioneer Products. I ordered a solid trans mount and the box came with the hydraulic part (right box, wrong part). They order another and it was the same way. I can return the part, but I will be out the shipping. :pissed:


Autozone, Advanced, Checker, Schucks, Kragen all carry Pioneer mounts. Go there, and get the right parts.

The Solid Trans Mount is Pioneer #622712.
 

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b4black said:
FYI, forget NAPA. Their Balkamp parts are just repackaged Pioneer Products. I ordered a solid trans mount and the box came with the hydraulic part (right box, wrong part). They order another and it was the same way. I can return the part, but I will be out the shipping. :pissed:


Autozone, Advanced, Checker, Schucks, Kragen all carry Pioneer mounts. Go there, and get the right parts.

The Solid Trans Mount is Pioneer #622712.
This is a common problem with NAPA and these mounts. I picked mine up at the store (no shipping that way), they had 2 in stock both packaged as solid but were hydraulic. Their local warehouse had 2 more, both ended up being hydraulic. They ordered 2 that a remote warehouse had listed and 1 ended up being correct so I bought it. I don't know if the other one was right or not, I didn't ask.
 

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I have a 2 1/2 ton jack, that I picked up from sears.. it's a small compact floor jack.

Do you think it will be suitable for this job?
 

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Front Right Motor Mount 3.8 Series 2 V6 Buick Regal ?

Today I am about to attemp to save myself 250 bucks and replace my front right motor mount on my 2000 Buick Regal LS non superchaged 3.8L V6....Can anyone provide me a simple set of instructions other than Mercs print out? I am looking at the Haynes Repair Manual and it seems to have a different set than the posts here ...I am pretty handy done a lot of work to the old Buick (Been under it continues knocking!) And hope this solves my bad bad vibrations....


Please anyone that can write a fool proof step by step quick I owe a case a beer to lol....

Thanks for the help new to the site but look to help others with ther Buick issues soon!
 

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Anywhere else to get Poly Motor & Tranny Mounts then ZZPerformance??

I'm planning to replace the original lower rubber motor & tranny mounts with Polyurethane on my '04 Grand Prix-GT.

While there's several choice's for upper Poly mounts, it looks like ZZPerformance is the only one out there with Poly mounts under the engine and transmission. Anybody know of any other choices? The ZZP's are a bit pricey at $150 for the poly motor mount and $90 for the poly trans mount.:icon_eek:

Have worked on cars for years and poly is so much better than rubber, particularly in these under the motor areas that quickly deteriorate rubber mounts. If I have to I'll "bite the bullet" and get the ZZP's, but thought I'd see if I've missed other choices for polyurethane. Thanks!
 

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You could try W-Body store, I cant remember if they have them or not.
 
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