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Discussion Starter #21
Likely the previous owner of the L27 didn't change the coolant. If that engine had the orange coolant, I believe it really destroyed the intake gaskets and promoted the pitting.
Are the camshaft lobes badly damaged?
I got the car with unknown but near clear red coolant - probably made for alloy engines or probably turned to red because of the rust or other stuff inside. Found a picture I made in 2016 (vs. 2018 after cleaning and refill):



The tip/hose connection of the heater inlet pipe is nearly gone. The outlet pipe (that non removable pipe at the timing cover) looks pretty good at comparison :icon_roll

Only the intake lobe at #1 is damaged. I kept it as is in hope it doesn't gets worse. But I don't think this came from the cable hose chunks. I could imagine the lifter collapsed and jumped? The damage doesn't looks new to me and never noticed ticking.

Over the span of MANY YEARS I've dealt with many pitted sealing areas. My fix was(assuming the pits are not very deep) using a HIGH TEMP SEALER made by ZEP. This stuff is the best for sealing up any surface. After it dries, it stays flexable and HEAT RESISTANT(great for sealing up header leaks or stock exhaust manifolds. This product is good for very hot temps (like header or exhaust manifold sealing surfaces). BEST STUFF EVER. We put some on my son's leaky pitted exhaust maniflods on an OLD DODGE mini motor home and it sealed up areas 100% I thought would not hold. But after several trips to the local drag strips towing his hot rod......NO LEAKS. It is more spendy than run of the mill sealers but 200% better. Heck, I've even used it to seal up rusty pitted exhaust flanges and pipes...... works every time but an over-nite curing time is necessary. exhaust manifold gaskets....... not even close to ZEPS results and longevity. If I remember correctly, it's good for 1200-1500 degrees and it stays flexable. We wouldn't be without it at our shop...... unless it becomes un available! Heaven forbid............... Jake
Thanks, sounds promising. I'll try to get my hands on that stuff to fix the Ford's exhaust manifolds :) JB should be resistant upto 550 ºF. Time will tell.

Coming other side notes in mind (for the audience):

If you are going to change the heater core try to get your hands on the ACDelco OE 15-63728 core (listed for Cadillac only). It's still made in USA, solid and fits like a charm. OE was 15-60064. 63728 will fit for nearly all the early 90s cars including LeSabre, Bonneville, Deville ... dunno why it's only listed for Cadillac.

You should consider to change the knock sensor. It's located on the right/rear side near the oil filter. This is how my sensor looked:



At least you have good access after removing the power steering pump, tensioner and cross bar.
 
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