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hey guys. i got a 2002 lesabre with the gen 2 3800 in it. I would liek to supercharge it so i asked ZZP if it would fit. They said no then a few weeks later said yes...wich is it? Has anyone put this kit on a lesabre before?
 

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If my memory serves me correctly, the NA 3800 has higher compression. That said, if you install an intercooler and upgrade the cooling system for colder operating temps, you should be good. And needless to say, you will be running a good grade of premium FUEL....OR ELSE.... For me, I run BP premium with ZERO KR. Works great every time. Some will say to just pour in some octane booster....... I say, never mind..... just go fill it up with BP Premium or another good fuel with higher octane. If you go down this route, make sure you do some live scanning to keep an eye on KR..... KR is one of the quickest ways to KILL AND ENGINE...... Jake
 

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If you are going through all the trouble of supercharging your engine, I would make sure the engine is built for it. You may just want to see if you can pull one from a junk yard that is already supercharged and have it rebuilt or buy a donor car with the supercharged engine in it with the ECU and wiring harness.
 

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If you are going through all the trouble of supercharging your engine, I would make sure the engine is built for it. You may just want to see if you can pull one from a junk yard that is already supercharged and have it rebuilt or buy a donor car with the supercharged engine in it with the ECU and wiring harness.
The NA (L36) engine is 9.4:1 compression and the SC (L67) is 8.8:1
Doing the exact same mods to a top swapped L36 car automatically makes bigger power than the L67’s. Higher compression needs higher octane and better cooling though.

If your L36 is healthy a top swap is far more economical than a rebuild job on an engine.
Don’t believe anyone that says you can do a top swap for less than $1500-$2000 though, way more to it, to do it right.

As Goodwrench said KR is the 3800 enemy. Higher octane and intercooling are the way to go.
 

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I guess one can look at these scenarios in different ways as some have mentioned. AS far as a supercharged 3800, it will make more power if done correctly. For me it was GETTING AN EXCELLENT TUNE FROM DYNO TUNE motor sports. My ride (2003 3800) GTP. I am running an OEM supercharger with a 2.4" pulley 14lbs boost, ZZP inter cooler, and high speed cooling fans(for the inter cooler). I have been using this set up for a long time now and this has been flawless for performance and reliability......no hurt parts! My only issue is I can't find a set of tires that can handle the power. I have been using this set up for several years with 100% reliability. An unexpected occurance after doing all these mods was the car gets good fuel mileage in town and great mileage on an interstate. One last thing I will mention is I am also running 3" exhaust and a very nice set of SLP headers...... turned out to be way more power than I expected .
PS, because there is no longer emissions testing in Minnesota, I also deleted the CAT. 100% pleased with how it all turned out. The only side effect was, my wife will no longer ride with me in this 3800 HOT ROD......OH WELL..... ONE LAST RECOMENDATION......I use BP 93 octane premium with great results......... Mr Goodwrench
 

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Don’t believe anyone that says you can do a top swap for less than $1500-$2000 though, way more to it, to do it right.
That's about the exact price range to come out of it with a ~300-350 wheel hp build with smart shopping. After having a blast getting my '98 GTP going with an L36 with the X-P cam, headers, and stock heads/LIM with the Gen 3 & later GenV... I did about 6-10 other builds for L36 folks in MI, MN, and NY with nearly identical work. My setup got to 333whp on 100/104 Sunoco unleaded, and [email protected] spinning street tires at Norwalk in 2006.

Buying a donor L67/L32 will be $500-800 for ~100-130k miles with good shopping, and you can choose to use the whole engine, or pull the top end to put on the L36 block. Gaskets, bolts, fluids/sealants, S1x/VS/XP cam, valvetrain upgrades (springs, retainers, chain set, lifters), Northstar TB, MAF, and headers will be about $750-1,000 more, if you take your time shopping for quality used/new parts. I did my first setup as a poor engineering student up in Flint, MI in the early 2000's, so maximizing every dollar was high priority scouring classifieds and junkyards (more car time than class time back then, but it was a blast).

Self-tuning with a programmer is an acquired skill that benefits you in the long-run, otherwise you're spending about the same price for one of the few trusted vendors to dial it in, and you come away knowing less about your car. I'd say that's the additional $3-500 cost that may put you at/over the $2k mark for a strong build.
 

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My 2003 Monte SS is an L36 top swapped with a ported gen3 M90 and LIM, 3.1” pulley, ZZP intercooler, Intense S2 cam, comp lifters and springs, heads that were worked over extensively and have oversized valves and ported, 1.7 YT rockers, SLP headers, 3” dp and cat delete to SLP exhaust, modified CAI boxed, TB spacer, Tstat delete and an electric water pump.

I went above and beyond what most people will do and all of the work besides the head machine work for the valves I did by hand myself. The L67 parts came from a ‘01 GTP that I paid $500 for the whole car.
I have $1400 in exhaust parts.
$450 in gaskets.
$500 in valvetrain upgrades.
$550 water pump.
$450 Cam shaft.
$1400 into cylinder heads.
$4200+ over the years I’ve been building this car plus the $4500 I paid for it 13 years ago.

Finding used performance parts in Canada is worse odds than winning the lottery.
 

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Yep, you added many parts that go beyond the basic "top swap" (as did I after a while, eventually up to the IC'd MP112 on the engine that's now my L26 "spare").

My generic estimated price list would look like:
  • L67 heads/LIM/SC/fuel rail/brackets/pulleys (or whole donor engine) - ~$750 USD avg.
  • gaskets (heads, intake, SC, timing cover) - ~$100 USD
  • bolts (heads, crank, cam, rockers) - ~$75 USD
  • cam upgrade (cam - 300, springs/retainers - 150, lifters - 100, chain set - 100) - ~$650
  • fluids/sealants (oil change, coolant, RTV, etc.) - ~$75
  • headers (eBay - 125, +better clamps - 25, +ZZP flex swap - 50)- ~$200
  • PCM tune by shop or self - ~$300
TOTAL(-ish) - ~$2,150 USD... with prudent shopping and tools/resources on-hand or available
...Edit: not sure if headers fit an H-body too well, but a front P-log costs about the same for decent alternative.

I built a simple slideshow (old cell phone pics) when top-swapping an '03 Impala LS in 2009, for fun:
https://s223.photobucket.com/user/dezldave961/slideshow/dan%20-%2003%20impala/topswap%20slideshow?sort=6
(let me know if that link isn't working)
He also got a VS cam and PaceSetter headers, I think (buyer's choice, not mine).

Got to do a slightly fancier "basic top-swap" on an '02 Monte SS in 2009, with the top from a clean 2004 SS, and added VS and SSAC headers (eBay SLP clones before they got wacky):
 
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