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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My MAF Airflow rate with the mods listed below : 32.54 lb/min on a 60 degree day with 56% humidity, under hood inlet air averaging between 82-85 degrees at the MAF. Seeing 2.3 KR from 5700rpm to 6000rpm, with a slight blip of 4.0 from 5500-5700 initially. Any idea what my horsepower is based on that air flow number?

I’m thinking somewhere around 290 crank hp. I -sort of- logged the data in a screenshot from my dash command app I use on iPhone (all extended PID’s were purchased). The screenshot won’t make any sense unless you completely 100% understand the layout of the Dash Commander data grid. I plan to get it dynoed but was just curious how accurate maf air flow to hp conversions are. Still on the stock 3.8 supercharger pulley, also this of course is a Gen V supercharger. Car has 198k on the engine and transmission. Thanks in advance and the current setup of the car as well as the screenshot, are shown below :

2007 Pontiac Grand Prix GT Supercharged 4AT (Bolt Ons, Mildly Gutted, “First Draft” Edition)

Changes to the car :

4 Inch Inlet Intake Filter

Autolite XP104 Iridium (-not- the normal copper 104's) plugs gapped to 0.050

ZZP Alternator Power Cable

ZZP 180 Degree Thermostat

ZZP Polyurethane Dog Bone Bushings

ZZP Polyurethane Upper Motor Mounts

ZZP Aluminum Transmission Pan

3 Inch Collector BHR Stainless Steel/Titanium Wrapped Headers

3 Inch BHR Catless Downpipe

3 Inch Catback w/ Cherry Bomb Glasspacks

EGR Bypass

TransGo Shift Kit

93 Tuned by Daniel Smuts

11077
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
The screenshot above was taken when the car was idling. The smaller triple stacked numbers next to each variable are I believe the max, average and minimums as related to said variable. I did one wide open throttle run and that’s it. I don’t beat on this car at all.
 

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That's a total guessing game. You're welcome to assume whatever number you want, but what's that mean to you? It doesn't make the car faster/slower in reality. Have it dyno'd if you want to know, as these have a pretty consistent 20% drivetrain loss to the wheels.

Sidenote: getting knock still on a stock pulley, with intake/exhaust and a "tune" seems more worthy ot your attention before pushing it too much further. It's at the top end of useful rpm range of a stock cam/valvetrain, but still very resolvable.

Since you seem interested in getting the most out if it, look at optimizing what you can, and consider adding a wideband O2 setup for accurate A/F scanning. There's tons of options for parts and ways to integrate it in your scanning (I like running it as the EGR 0-5v signal, since that's left hanging behind).
 
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