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The front rotors have warped on my 2008 Lucerne after a few miles of aggressive driving. That doesn't reflect well on the OEM brake parts.

What's been the experience of those who installed heavy duty or performance front brakes...rotors and pads? Any recommendation on replacements?

Thanks.
 

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On another note, when you put new brake pads on, there are two very important steps for a good brake repair......

#1... USE A TOP SHELVE BRAND of brake pads and be sure to coat the back side of the pads with disc brake quiet(this will stop brake squeeling).... #2... use a top shelf brand of disc brake rotors. At our shop, we mostly use AUTO ZONE PREMIUM disc brake pads with excellent success.

During installing the brake parts, make double sure the front wheel hubs need to be clean of rust and debris or you could end up with a brake chatter and or feel it in the steering wheel. If you are using the old rotors over, have them remachined before installing and put brake lube or anti seize on the wheel hub (this will cut down the rusting that can bulid up and cause a brake chatter/vibration). Now days rotors are pretty inexpensive.....probably less than having the old rotors remachined......using an old rotor without machining is a bad idea if you want a nice brake job....

The brake calipers need to cleaned up of rusty areas and the sliding bolts the calipers are held in place with need to be cleaned and put brake lube on the bolts as well as inside the calipers where the bolts go thru them.

Lastly, after all the work is done and a test drive is next, remember to gently break in the new brake parts. From 30/40 mph driving, Make one moderate brake stop. Then do another one after allowing the brake parts to cool....new brakes create a lot of heat when not seated in at first use. I do several stops from 30+ mph and during this, after each brake application, do some easy driving to cool the rotors back down. After this process is done(initial brake seat in), do some more aggressive stops(short ones). You should be able to feel the brakes getting seated in...Usually, one can feel this difference as you are doing the break-in process. At first it will feel like the brakes are barely working. After a few easy stops, you will start to feel the new parts come alive and ready to go. I restate again, go easy on the new parts......you don't want to over heat the new rotors or fry the new pads.... ONE MORE THING,,,some rotors may have a coating on them to stop rusting being in a warehouse for who knows how long. use some BRAKE CLEAN TO GET THE ROTORS clean before installing. And away you go...... Jake
 

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Was the car recently worked on? I ask because years ago a shop used an impact gun when putting the tires back on my car. I then had pulsation with the brakes. Went home and loosen them up and retorqued by hand and they were fine. They must have tighten them unevenly. If not I agree with Zen and the Power stop rotors and pads are pretty good.
 

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Was the car recently worked on? I ask because years ago a shop used an impact gun when putting the tires back on my car. I then had pulsation with the brakes. Went home and loosen them up and retorqued by hand and they were fine. They must have tighten them unevenly. If not I agree with Zen and the Power stop rotors and pads are pretty good.
I agree. If you have a shop do them, get it home, loosen the lug nuts and torque to factory specs using a good quality torque wrench. Over tightening the lugs can really screw up your vehicle.
 

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I have also seen some shops do a crappy job.....by that I mean..... if the wheel hubs are not cleaned up from rust and debris before the rotors are installed, this issue happens a LOT. Over tightened lugs nuts or uneven torquing will cause brake pulsation just as much as a rusty wheel hub......... Jake

PS, when I do brake jobs, I clean/sand all the rust off of the wheel hub (and the rotors) if using the old ones. And before final assembly, I coat the wheel hubs with ANTISEIZE. This keeps rusting from occurring. Jake
 

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We had the dealership do some work to a 2010 RAM my wife owned. After we got it back a few months later I went to replace the rotors and pads and had a hard time getting the socket on the lug nuts. Turned out they over torqued them so bad it made the lug nuts bulge. I ended up replacing all the lug nuts on the whole vehicle. :mad: :wobble:
 

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upgrade brake rotors

Warping of brake rotors when the car is driven hard is normal. I tried a lot of different rotors on my wifes car as she waits till she is at the stop sign to hit the brakes. I bought rotors from BRAKE MOTIVE on ebay, I now put them on EVERYTHING. drilled and slotted rotors are the way to go... and the price from them is right! I have never been dissatisfied with their rotors or pads. after a few winters the slots and holes get a little rusted up, but I clean them (sand blaster) and rechamfer the holes with a drill bit. I spray them with high temp paint and then I turn them.
 

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Warping of brake rotors when the car is driven hard is normal. I tried a lot of different rotors on my wifes car as she waits till she is at the stop sign to hit the brakes. I bought rotors from BRAKE MOTIVE on ebay, I now put them on EVERYTHING. drilled and slotted rotors are the way to go... and the price from them is right! I have never been dissatisfied with their rotors or pads. after a few winters the slots and holes get a little rusted up, but I clean them (sand blaster) and rechamfer the holes with a drill bit. I spray them with high temp paint and then I turn them.

Classic problem caused by a loose nut behind the steering wheel ! :-(

Wyr
God bless
 
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