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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The new owner of my car has an engine noise and found the Meziere flexplate rubbing the oil pan bolt and block. I assume the flexplate bolts are suspect? If he disconnects the torque converter, will he be able to inspect the bolts? Any other causes or suggestions?

I installed the flexplate in 2010. I'm still researching whether I used stock or ARP bolts. I'm sure I installed them as per the instructions, based on which bolt I used but it sounds like they have a history or loosening.

Thanks!
 

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I've only heard of flywheel bolts backing out. Flexplates including Mezieres are known to crack though. Undoing the converter bolts might give you the ability to find play in something that shouldn't have any.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
That's a good point - it should not have play after being disconnected from the torque converter. I had not heard of Meziere flexplates cracking. I cracked at least one stock so that's why I got the Meziere.
I was told the flexplate bolts can't be inspected or tightened without dropping the tranny, is that true?
 

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The converter sits tight to it (~1/8-1/4" gap, is all), so no room to see nor get a wrench in there securely.

You can either pull the engine up and out with a hoist, or use an engine brace on the fenders to drop the trans/cradle away from the engine (support steering rack with strap, too).

Both take about the same effort, but pulling the engine is a bit less awkward when you're not used to doing this routinely. I used to swap a bunch of blown transmissions for guys in MN, so we got decent at it, but it's been a while so I favor top pulls now (especially after dropping out my full GXP setup earlier this year... Ugh, videos uploaded).
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I got an update on this - "Flywheel bolts are tight. I actually got a wrench on most bolts. All appear tight...".
Anyone have any experience with crank walk due to thrust bearing wear or failure? Too much crankshaft endplay is causing the flexplate to contact the block?
I don't know if it can be checked in the car? Push/pry against the pulley side and see if it can be moved?
 

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These blocks are pretty solid, so that's not been a major issue, even on upgraded builds. Flexplates tend to be the things that give, or bolts that haven't been properly torqued/loctited when factory seal is broken.
 

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The fidelity of squeezing a wrench blindly into the bellhousing, between the TC and flexplate, and giving a little tug isn't going to be very solid. It also leaves minimal ability to visually inspect the plate for cracks, etc.

This is just going to require a more thorough effort by the owner, if they want to confirm/resolve issues. It's not fun, and a major pain, but sadly necessary for this region.
 

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i have two allen head bolts at the back of the TR's oil pan because the factory bolt flanges contacted our meziere where they threaded into the rear cover.
thats the problem with the later aluminum/oring (picture construction like the GM aluminum LIM gaskets) rear cover gaskets beside the fact they still end up leaking like the paper gaskets do.

i now only use the paper gaskets as they are only 0.010in thick where the aluminum gasket is .080 thick and moves the bolts and rear main seal closeer to the flexplate
 
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