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Discussion Starter #1
Bought a HyperTech Programmer hoping to set the fans to come on at a lower temp in conjunction with my 180 thermostat. Can these fans be programmed to kick on and off at a different temperature. Car is a 2003 Buick Regal LS.
 

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OR, buy a high speed cooling fan set up. To use these the way intended, there is a SWITCH and a couple of relays along with wiring as needed. I don't run a thermostat at all and just turn on the high speed fan set up when needed.
The high speed fan set up if not turned on, will still allow the OEM operation of the cooling fans. Personally I prefer to control my cooling the way I like it. I do not run a thermostat. I generally manually control the fan preference myself for general crusing or pedal to the metal. Works well for me and my temps are always low enough to keep the engine happy and safe. I never see any KR running it a bit cooler. 140 to 160 and I'm OK with the heater operation. HOWEVER , right now here in the TWIN CITIES MINN, our weather is hitting low temps down around -20 to -40 degrees. We don't need any cooling aides for a few months............maybe in MAY or?????

On another note, running an engine COOLER generally will give you more performance assuming the tune is good. One can PUSH UP TIMING and tweek fuel mixture. Sort of like a nice cool fall day VS a hot summer day.

Jake PS,I never seen any KR ...... I salute DYNO BRIAN FOR THE TUNE HE DID FOR ME......BETTER than I hoped for.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I've seen the wiring harness with the relays and the switch. I think I may go that route. It's only $100 which is way less that a programmer. Thanks for your advice!!!!!
 

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There is one problem I ran into with the HIGH SPEED FAN KIT....... you need to make sure to turn the fans off when you park the car.....I have forgotten a few times and came out to my car with a LOW battery. As I re-think how I installed mine, I had it connected to direct battery supply instead of an ignition circuit. After a couple of dead battery episodes, I learned my lesson...... Jake
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I read about that, my plan was to wire it so it would only work if the key was turned on. Thanks for the recommendation!
 

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I've seen the wiring harness with the relays and the switch. I think I may go that route. It's only $100 which is way less that a programmer. Thanks for your advice!!!!!
Regarding this switch, relay fan set up , I've had no luck finding it on summit, intense or just a general google search. Are you referring to an already manufactured, plug in set up or a home made version? I was just looking for another way besides getting the PCM reflashed to lower engine temp in addition to the 180 stat. Thanks
 

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From the classic wiring tips by BackInBlackGP from the good ole days ($10-20 in parts, and a couple hours of effort to make it clean):

11031


"This modification allows you to manually activate your radiator cooling fans to the HIGH speed operation mode. The PCM will override the manual switch unless the PCM is calling for the fans to be OFF, in which case the override switch will have priority. You will need to locate the two cooling fan outputs that run from your PCM to the under hood relay center.

You will need to solder 1/4 watt resistors to the control relays. These resistors apply the proper load to the PCM output so that no SES code is set when the fans are manually controlled.

The LIGHT BLUE wire in the drawing is the only wire that needs to be passed through the firewall. Use a minimum of 18AWG wire for this modification, and use proper inline fuses on the + voltage lines to prevent damage in the event of a short circuit.

The relays are generic 1" cube automotive 30A relays that have an internal coil resistance of approximately 96 Ohms.

You will leave the stock relays in the relay center. There is actually no need to even open up the cover. This modification will require 3 additional relays shown below that can be purchased at almost any automotive parts store. They are most commonly used to control auxiliary wiring.


You also may be wondering why I didn't design the circuit for HIGH/LOW operation. This would require an additional switch, or a more complicated one. Secondly, are you trying to cool down or what? In my opinion, there is no point for having a "low" setting. You are either going to cool the radiator down or you are not. Simple as that."



Obviously, anything you do to your car is your own responsibility, so research and only do what you're comfortable/confident/safe doing. A quick search for the terms in the diagram/instructions will give plenty of explanation, but if that's not helping you, please get someone experienced in-person to assist rather than being frustrated over something that shouldn't cause you that much headache.

- Dave
 

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Very interesting and informative. Getting high speed operation without triggering SES light is what I've been trying to locate. Thank you for the detailed instructions. It looks like Casper's makes these devices for certain W body applications but not the Impala/Monte carlo. I'm just trying to cool the radiator down on warmer days in stop and go traffic and want manual control of the high speed fan operation OR I suppose the easiest way would be to find someone to reprogram my PCM for lower on/off fan temps. I really don't want to buy and get into an HP tuner set up just to change fan temps so I thought of going the manual route. Even in metro Detroit, I havent seemed to be able to find someone/ a shop that can just change my PCM fan settings. Thank you again for you in depth diagram and instructions.
 

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There's a boatload of guys around there who have that capability (I was active in Motor City Club GP for 5+ years when I lived in SE Mich until ~2006-7). In fact, the only large 3800/Wbody gathering remaining is each June, north of Detroit, near Flint (Holly) where the engines were built. Try seeing who's on the FB groups, since that seems to be where anyone left from the old forums still might chat (I may get FB soon, just to see who's still there 😖).

Good luck, and as long as you're not getting above ~210 in very hot conditions, you're fine. Just don't beat on the pedal until you've seen it get some airflow to cool it back to ~190 or less with that t-stat. Drilling 2-4 holes in the tstat's flange (~1/8") can assist, too.
 

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There's a boatload of guys around there who have that capability (I was active in Motor City Club GP for 5+ years when I lived in SE Mich until ~2006-7). In fact, the only large 3800/Wbody gathering remaining is each June, north of Detroit, near Flint (Holly) where the engines were built. Try seeing who's on the FB groups, since that seems to be where anyone left from the old forums still might chat (I may get FB soon, just to see who's still there 😖).

Good luck, and as long as you're not getting above ~210 in very hot conditions, you're fine. Just don't beat on the pedal until you've seen it get some airflow to cool it back to ~190 or less with that t-stat. Drilling 2-4 holes in the tstat's flange (~1/8") can assist, too.
I thought that there might be 3800 people around metro Detroit but although I've had this 05 Impala SS for 12 years,I just recently started to do the usual bolt ons like the 3" DP, front PLOG (looks more like a shorty header to me) FWI and just a 3.6" pulley, 180 stat (with the holes). Don't know why I started to mess with it at 120,000 miles but the engine is still rock solid and the original trans still shifts fine. I was always more old school with an 86 Olds 442 , 68 Olds 350 with a 650 DP Holley and HEI ignition...18" flex fan. Not even thinking mid 12s with this Impala like the Olds but those basic bolt ons did wake it up more than I thought it would. In 08 I just did the U bend delete, FWI and that was it for 11 years. I know I should get a PCM tune but at least the KR for now is no more than 1 on a upper 80s day. Low 80s and lower , it's 0. Seems like Im getting 200, sometimes 210 max if it's high 80s, above 90 and stuck at a light but it drops below 200 in a half mile of cruising. Sept. weather here really wakes it up. An Gen 3 M90 with iron heads isnt the best combo with hot humid weather but it works. Yank the fuel injection and coil pack off that 3.8 and it's about as old school as that 68 Olds 350. Considering these 3.6 DOCH engines are supposedly 300-335 HP, this OHV 3.8 has done OK in a few 0-60s at a light the past couple months. And I know this relic isnt near 300 HP. Thanks again for all your info. I signed up for this site in 2018 but have rarely visited it.
 

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You're still at a point that piggyback tweaks (fan switch, mini-AFC, etc.) can cover the adjustments required. Your numbers don't seem to require any changes, so I'd enjoy and maintain it at that state for as long as you want.

I wouldn't focus on the comparisons between apples, oranges, and bananas for those 3 separate generations of engines. The flexibility, potential, and efficiency of the 3800 is what makes it still a great option for modding lightly like yours, or going as far as our aftermarket permits. Pre-EFI setups can make power, but they start off less efficient and only get worse as performance-specific changes are made. The new 3.6's are just as advanced beyond 3800's, with DOHC and especially direct injection permitting more efficiency and power N/A. It'll be interesting to see if they hold together with power added, but they have the disadvantage of more complexity to take advantage of their improved designs. I'm rooting for them, because they're in everything now, kinda like 3800's for 15-20yrs.
 

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Considering how well that old 231 runs, a fan switch sounds plenty adequate. I hear many a people speak highly of intense racing canned tunes or others however getting into 6000 rpm shifts (currently set at 5700-5800...6000 sounds like valve float with stock cam/rockers) and a hard 1-2 shift with 125,000 miles, messing with the torque management OR it running no different than it does doesnt seem worth the trouble. I can see where a 3.4 pulley/rockers/intercooler (or even more stuff) makes a PCM upgrade necessary but in my case, I think I'll pass.

I hear you on the complexity of the 3.6 DOHC. Seems like the sweet spot for modern day hot rod engine was the 3.8. The best of the old and new. Iron yet only 24 pounds heavier than the 3.6, pushrods for simplicity, compact, so simple to work on and bulletproof. The way that 3.6 is so huge due to DOHC and jammed into every engine bay, it's difficult to get at anything. At least the WP is driven by the accessory belt and not the timing chain. I suppose it is the way of the future and isn't going anywhere. Between the Olds 350, the 3.8 and the 5.7 Vortec in my '96 chevy truck Im still clinging to all iron mills with pushrods. My sister has a 3.6 in a 2013 equinox at 250 HP and it's a pig below 4500 rpms. Once you wind it out, it does get moving but I like the low end torque of the 3.8. I talked my ole lady into a 2015 camaro 3.6 with a 6 speed manual...she wanted the V8 but I kind of talked her out of it.Even with the manual, you have to wail on it past 4500, it'll go but below that, it feels wheezy. After I put that 3.6 pulley and DP/ PLOG on the Pimpala she drove it and asked me "how my HP does this old 1980s engine have now"....I said maybe about 270"....then she remembered "you told me this camaro with this high tech/all aluminum engine has 303...why does it seem this impala would smoke my camaro without even trying"? I think I maybe convinced her with the whole low end peak torque at 3600 rpms /supercharger thing. For now. I know DOCH/ 4 valve/ VVT/DI V6s are here to stay but it's good to see GM and Mopar are at least still building pushrod V8s with great success. I never thought Id own a FWD car yet alone a V6 . Now that old 3.8 and W body are nostalgic as hell! I just noticed 11.40s at 122 in your turbo Regal. That's screaming. When it came to classic muscle cars back in my younger days, Olds and Buick always had the classiest and more rare muscle cars.
 
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