3800Pro Forums banner
1 - 5 of 5 Posts

·
Registered
1997 Pontiac Grand Prix GT
Joined
·
52 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So my 2000 GTP I had originally intended to sell ASAP due to various things (lots of rust and the tranny failing) but it seems I’ll have to at least make it last through the North Dakota winter in order to get the money for a nicer one. Pulling the trans through the bottom is not an option for me so I’m going to just pull the engine with the trans and then go from there with bolting on a new used trans from my local scrap yard assuming I can get a 4t65e-HD. I don’t wanna risk shredding a non HD. I just need an idea of how to go about removing the trans and engine together through the top, as well as what transmissions will work for a swap (years, cars, variants, etc).
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
885 Posts
1st, I'd still separate them to pull to make life easier. Disconnect the engine, bellhousing, converter, diff bracket, oil filter neck/spring, etc. and pull the engine (diff tail wants to sag to passenger side, so support it to make them separate easier)... Then, attach the chain to the rear-most bellhousing bolt and another point that balances the transmission, and pull that after unhooking lines and mount.

2nd, the 2000's are a transition year for 4t65e's, so make sure you get one that's got the same internal mode switch (black box with wires at shift linkage, or not there) and cooler line fittings (thread-in or quick-disconnect style). I've run a 2002 on my 1998, so there's options.

3rd, non-HD's aren't made of glass, they're 95% the same transmission, minus a slightly bigger diff/axle and converter. Don't let that cause you to lose time or money, unless your only goal is doing burnouts non-stop, which both will usually be upset about anyway.
 

·
Registered
1997 Pontiac Grand Prix GT
Joined
·
52 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
1st, I'd still separate them to pull to make life easier. Disconnect the engine, bellhousing, converter, diff bracket, oil filter neck/spring, etc. and pull the engine (diff tail wants to sag to passenger side, so support it to make them separate easier)... Then, attach the chain to the rear-most bellhousing bolt and another point that balances the transmission, and pull that after unhooking lines and mount.

2nd, the 2000's are a transition year for 4t65e's, so make sure you get one that's got the same internal mode switch (black box with wires at shift linkage, or not there) and cooler line fittings (thread-in or quick-disconnect style). I've run a 2002 on my 1998, so there's options.

3rd, non-HD's aren't made of glass, they're 95% the same transmission, minus a slightly bigger diff/axle and converter. Don't let that cause you to lose time or money, unless your only goal is doing burnouts non-stop, which both will usually be upset about anyway.
Alright thanks a ton, that gives me a bit of an idea and broadens my search options. I don't plan on doing burnouts lol, maybe the occasional pull or extra power if I decide to keep the thing and attend to the rust at some point.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
am the owner of a 1993 Z34 am attempting to pull out engine thru the top have all connections unsecured, having a bit of a problem. I cant get the trans separated from the engine, any suggestions or advice.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
885 Posts
First as a spot check, make sure you got each bracket off underneath (not sure what different ones there are for that generation chassis with that engine combo).

As I mentioned for W-body 3800's, the tail of the trans will tend to sag and apply an angled pressure that keeps the engine against it. You may need to get a jack under the trans pan (with a block of wood or board piece to spread the load some), and ensure it doesn't sag while trying to separate/pull the engine.

At the bell-housing connection, there is a reverse-mounted bolt into the transmission at the very back for 3800's, which may be on the other 4t60's too (?). If you have the bell and converter disconnected, along with the above items, I'd get a pry bar or large flat-head in there and try making separation with some tension on the hoist. If everything's disconnected, it 'should' release any grip that the guide pins on the bell have, along with the converter center post. Then, you just have to clear the flexplate from the bell to go up.

Hope that at least gives a few places to look, even if something else winds up getting you squared away while going back at it.
 
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
Top