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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, well I am about to start a major project in the next month. I am looking to make sure I along with others that help me along the way are on the right track.

I am planning to race street class next summer and put a full race setup into my grand prix.
First off I am looking for somewhere that could build me a removable roll cage and do a clean install.

My major project is a full race built engine. I am using the engine currently in my car and it will be rebuilt by a engine shop here in Guelph. The guy seems to know what he is doing and has taken a lot of interest in my car.

To start with I am going with prob 8.0:1 diamond pistons, I am stuck between 8.5 that have been recommended and 8.0. I know that 8.0 will allow for more boost. The main question I have here after what compression is it worth getting coated pistons?

Next for valves, I hear that Manley valves are only good to about 18-19 lbs and that for cars planning on running more, to be safe should be using modified small block chev valves that have 5/8th stems IIRC. Also what size valves are best? 1.57/1.9?

For heads I plan on doing some mild porting of my heads and then working something out with Will (overkill) to finish them off.

Next I plan on a fairly aggressive turbo cam that will be a specialized grind but for comparison sake close to a stage 3 intense cam. How is a aggressive turbo cam as a daily driver since there is no overlap?

I am planning on L32 rods. This I am told will be my weak link, as customs rods are almost 3 times the price. Also would shot peening be worth the money on the rods?

For a crank I plan on hardening (cryo) my stock crank.

I will be using a rollermaster double chain as this is my only choice as the only other company which is MUCH cheaper will only deliver 12 to NA at a time.

As for bearings/gaskets I will be using mostly items from the intense website.

I will be using LW pushrods with stock rockers. I plan on using 105 springs which should be good for lift in the .540 range.

Please let me know your expert opinions and how much hp you are running on a similar setup (if applicable)

Has anyone EVER had any of either a L32 rod/diamond psiton/stock crank ever break?

I am running the upgraded Cartuning Turbo kit w/IC. I have run 11.9 with tranny problems, but hope to go considerably faster, low 11's high 10's. Hope to hear from you guys running 11's or better.
Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I know that there are some of you intense guys that are running 11's or better that could add to this thread. I think that this thraed could become very useful to many members that are looking to do a full rebuild. I hope to hear from at least Scott on this matter when you have some free time to give a complete response.
TIA
 

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First off I am looking for somewhere that could build me a removable roll cage and do a clean install.
Removable? Unless you know something I don't, I don't see how it's possible to have a cage that is both removable AND meets NHRA rules. I see that you're in Canada, so maybe the rules different there?

To start with I am going with prob 8.0:1 diamond pistons, I am stuck between 8.5 that have been recommended and 8.0. I know that 8.0 will allow for more boost. The main question I have here after what compression is it worth getting coated pistons?
In theory, a big turbo that can flow a lot of air will benefit from the lower compression, but I don't know if there's that big of a difference between 8 and 8.5:1. Scott is running 8:1 and his is clearly doing very well. As far as the coating, here's my opinion on that. You're spending so much money on the cage, motor, custom setup, etc, why not just add the coating as well?

1.57 on the exhaust valves is good because that will help you retain some of the factory induction hardened seat.

Maybe Scott can comment on the cam.

I am planning on L32 rods. This I am told will be my weak link, as customs rods are almost 3 times the price. Also would shot peening be worth the money on the rods?
To date I'm not aware of anyone that has broken a rod from too much power or too high RPMs. There have a few due to bearings failing, but that doesn't count. IMO, The L32 rods are fine, just make sure you get good bearings.

For a crank I plan on hardening (cryo) my stock crank.
I'm not aware of any non-custom options out there and those will be expensive. A stock crank is alleged to be able to hold till 800 CHP.

I will be using a rollermaster double chain as this is my only choice as the only other company which is MUCH cheaper will only deliver 12 to NA at a time.
Rollmasters are nice. I'm told that they stretch less due to being pre-stretched. I need to verify that.

I will be using LW pushrods with stock rockers. I plan on using 105 springs which should be good for lift in the .540 range.
If I was going to the trouble you are, and I have :) , I would put in 130's for the peace of mind. You're not building a mild motor.

Please let me know your expert opinions and how much hp you are running on a similar setup (if applicable)
Expert? My opinion is worth what you paid for it. :)

Has anyone EVER had any of either a L32 rod/diamond psiton/stock crank ever break?
Like I said above, I'm not aware of any broken L32 rods due to rotational stress, and there's at least one motor on the INTENSE team that spins close to 8000. I'm also not aware of any pistons failing either. At least not yet. To date, all of our tuning mistakes have resulted in either blown head gaskets or melted plugs. We like to think of them as relatively inexpensive fuses.

As far as cranks, we're all running stock cranks. I'm not aware of any that have failed yet due to power.

Good luck to you!

John
 

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I asked the same question about the pistons when I bought mine. Is it worth the coating or not? Chris Green said that the factory pistons are coated, so why would you downgrade? So I got the coated ones and for the extra $200 or whatever I think its probably wort it.

Scott
 

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I agree with everything that's been posted so far. Let me touch on a few areas where I have something to add:

To start with I am going with prob 8.0:1 diamond pistons, I am stuck between 8.5 that have been recommended and 8.0. I know that 8.0 will allow for more boost.
I don't think you'll see any meaningful difference between those two ratios. So get what's in stock in the bore size you need.

The main question I have here after what compression is it worth getting coated pistons?
Absolutely. In fact, we plan to eventually phase out the uncoated ones.

Next for valves, I hear that Manley valves are only good to about 18-19 lbs and that for cars planning on running more, to be safe should be using modified small block chev valves that have 5/8th stems IIRC.
We've run up to 30 psi with no valve problems whatsoever.

Also what size valves are best? 1.57/1.9?
This depends on how your heads are worked. We've gotten the best results with 1.90"/1.57", but this may vary depending on the type of 'art' your head shop creates.

Next I plan on a fairly aggressive turbo cam that will be a specialized grind but for comparison sake close to a stage 3 intense cam. How is a aggressive turbo cam as a daily driver since there is no overlap?
Completely fine. The Stage 3 Turbo cam idles about the same as the Stage 1X Blower cam.

I am planning on L32 rods. This I am told will be my weak link, as customs rods are almost 3 times the price.
We've never hurt one yet.

Also would shot peening be worth the money on the rods?
The L32 rods are BEAUTIFUL right out of the box. We've run them for the last year, and their cost is approximately offset by the elimination of ~ $200 of machine work required on the L67 rods.

For a crank I plan on hardening (cryo) my stock crank.{/quote]

We run modified (but not cryoed) stock cranks, and have never injured one yet.

As for bearings/gaskets I will be using mostly items from the intense website.
Every single part on our Gaskets/Hardware page is in stock for immediate shipment. No backorders, and no excuses.

Has anyone EVER had any of either a L32 rod/diamond psiton/stock crank ever break?
Not that we are aware of.

I am running the upgraded Cartuning Turbo kit w/IC. I have run 11.9 with tranny problems, but hope to go considerably faster, low 11's high 10's. Hope to hear from you guys running 11's or better.
Here's your target audience then:

www.3800Tech.com/lists/fwdquarter.html
 

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"Every single part on our Gaskets/Hardware page is in stock for immediate shipment"

I'll vouch for that, got a nice box from UPS today, oops wasn't supposed to see it, g/f's christmas gifts :D
 
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