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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was just wondering if any of you had any tips for de-greasing the engine/engine bay?
And any tips for detailing the bay is also welcomed, as long as they are affordable, I drive a 96 PA, not a Bently.


I have tried to search for threads here, but really found none, I did find a little information via google, but I'd rather have tips from those I know have cleaned our engines before.

I've read that de-greasers can cause staining on aluminum, so if I wanted to clean my engine block off would it be better to do so while my upper and lower intake manifolds are off?

I've read a little rinsing off of the block is ok, but I'd imagine that if doing that I may want to have the UIM & LIM back on there before trying to clean the block and bay?


I have considered what products to use, either 3M Foaming Engine Degreaser, or DP Engine Degreaser.
I found an EZ Detail Brush that is supposed to help when cleaning things up, but it is a little pricey for a brush, are there any cheaper alternatives?


I'd not be asking all of this if it did not pertain to my current repairs on my UIM/LIM, I have had leaks that are not totally obvious as to where they came from to me, and once this thing is running I'd like to have the top and lower half of it all cleaned up enough to help me see any leaks right away if there are any.


Here are some pics of part of what I am trying to clean up, some of it could have came from my LIM since the gasket was old and almost disintegrated.
But I have a feeling something else may be leaking, as I've seen a little redness in some of the leaky/gooey/mess, so once the car runs again I want to be able to tell if any of the areas specifically in my pics are leaking.















 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
 

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when i degressed my engine bay i took it to the local do it urself carwash with the can of degreaser and sprayed everything down than let it sit for a min and used the powerwasher to clean everything off. just dont spray directly on the alternator and try not to soak all the wires.

from the pictures it looks like your valve cover gaskets and oil pan gasket are leaking. on your car they are pretty easy to replace, especially once you have the upper and lower manifolds off to get to the rear valve cover
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
when i degressed my engine bay i took it to the local do it urself carwash with the can of degreaser and sprayed everything down than let it sit for a min and used the powerwasher to clean everything off. just dont spray directly on the alternator and try not to soak all the wires.

from the pictures it looks like your valve cover gaskets and oil pan gasket are leaking. on your car they are pretty easy to replace, especially once you have the upper and lower manifolds off to get to the rear valve cover
I took my valve covers off and checked the gaskets, they felt/looked like new. despite having 133k miles, so I put them back on.
I did have my old style Fel-PRO lower intake manifold gasket fail on me recently, it pretty much disintegrated when I picked it up to remove it.

This is what it looked like, that could have been where the leak came from right?
I hope so, because I read that changing the oil pan gasket required moving the engine a little, I have never done this, and really do not know how to, of course if I needed help I am in the right place, a lof of you guys are awesome, and you provide really great help!


If you look at the first picture in my first post,with it full size, some of the fluid looks red, and it almost looks like it could have came out of the line coming from the transmission fluid pan.
I did replace the filter a few years back, and did not have a torque ratchet, but it never leaked for a good two years, so if that is part of the leak then I doubt it came from me possibly not torquing it enough.
 

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Besides from taking everything off, cleaning, prepping, and painting the best way that I have found is some of the DIY car washes actually have a engine degreaser setting. If you go there late at night (open 24hrs preferably) or on a rainy day you can jack your car up like I've done and get the underside too. Just make sure that you do a good job washing it off everything and wash your car when your done. Armorall wipes, shop towels, and elbow grease for the rest of ot
 

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I use the EngineBrite Gel, pressure wash it off, and then I take the blow gun on the air compressor and blow any water out of the important stuff (also helps stop water spotting).

You have to be careful with engine placement info between C and W bodies. You shouldn't need to move anything to drop the pan (this ain't no 4wd chevy 350 :) )
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Besides from taking everything off, cleaning, prepping, and painting the best way that I have found is some of the DIY car washes actually have a engine degreaser setting. If you go there late at night (open 24hrs preferably) or on a rainy day you can jack your car up like I've done and get the underside too. Just make sure that you do a good job washing it off everything and wash your car when your done. Armorall wipes, shop towels, and elbow grease for the rest of ot
Appreciate the tips, I cannot believe I owned the car for over 8 years and never really knew I could clean my engine like that.

I use the EngineBrite Gel, pressure wash it off, and then I take the blow gun on the air compressor and blow any water out of the important stuff (also helps stop water spotting).

You have to be careful with engine placement info between C and W bodies. You shouldn't need to move anything to drop the pan (this ain't no 4wd chevy 350 :) )
Thanks for the tips, the air compressor tip is a good one, I'll have to remember that.

I see I need to learn a little more, what type body would my 96 Buick Park Ave be?
What you are saying does correlate with what the AllData manual says, but I has seen a few other threads on various sites where people mentioned moving the engine...
I crawled up under there to look at it, and it is in a pretty tight spot, but with the right tools it looks accessible, I'd need a lift, or jack stands though, there's no way I am getting under there without them, and without it lifted a bit it would be a pain in the ass removing the oil pan.
I did however get my transmission pan off without raising it, but it was not fun.
 

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The gp's, regals, monte's, impalas are w bodies, the lesabre and bonne's are h's, and the park ave's are a c body. You will probably wanna throw it up on some jackstands, but its not bad to get at. The h bodies have less room and the w bodies even less so. So the info you're reading is probably w/ regards too those.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The gp's, regals, monte's, impalas are w bodies, the lesabre and bonne's are h's, and the park ave's are a c body. You will probably wanna throw it up on some jackstands, but its not bad to get at. The h bodies have less room and the w bodies even less so. So the info you're reading is probably w/ regards too those.
I just now read C Body on one of your posts about headers, great to know I can actually replace that if I need to, I was a bit worried, so many thanks for relieving that worry.
Beautiful PA you have by the way! :headbang:
 

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Thanks!
 

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best engine degrease

This is the best engine degrease. I use it and very happy with it.
reviewgig . com / home-n-garden/best-engine-degreaser-and-comparison
 
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