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Discussion Starter #1
So yeah my e85' gen 3' 3.2 pulley' (xp cam supposed bought used) 130 pac springs' ls7 lifters'
I checked push rod length and installed the 6.95 push rods and have speed daddy headers.
3 inch exhaust all the way out will only put down 252 hp and 318 tq and was tuned by dyno tune motor sports. Has 18* wot ..

Nothing while on the rollers threw up a red flag to him or i as to why it seams to be under powered.
Has 60 lb injectors and aem e85 pump. Duty cycle on the injectors were only at 55%.
Every once in a while i will get a blimp of Kr but never triggers my alarm on the tq app. In a couple conversations and brain storming sessions were thinking i might have a vs cam. Best track pass was 13.98 @ 97 mph. 2.0 60 foot. So i still think i am leaving power on the table.
 

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I was thinking you might go to a smaller pulley. I'm running a 2.6" and using BP 92/93 octane fuel. Works great with ZERO KR. Jake

Also a DYNO TUNE pcm reprogramming.......
 

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Keep the E85...106 octane Go with a smaller pulley. Check fuel trims .

Strongly consider a good intercooler.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I tried to throw on a 3.0 pulley but the car won't idle right and tries to stall when coming to a stop
 

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It sounds like you might have a fuel regulator leaking thru the vacuum hose pipe...... or something like that. Especially when you say it stalls when coming to a stop. Check for that potential problem. Also, have you performed a fuel system test(fuel pressure, volume of fuel in 30 seconds)? I'm beginning to wonder if your set up might be better off if you went down to 42lb injectors.

It sure would be nice for you to have a "full data stream" scan to see what is out of normal parameters. It would also be good to go over the entire upper and lower intake manifolds to see if there's any vacuum leaks anywhere. Also, try driving the car with the MAF (mass air flow sensor) unplugged. And as long as you are doing these tests, check the fuel system for proper pressure and VOLUME (volumn should be one quart in 30 seconds).

I don't think this would be the issue, but try using some BP premium gas instead of E85. Also, try cleaning the THROTTLE PLATE and the inside areas of the throttle housing where the plate seals and opens. Another thing that may be helpful for the stalling is..... adjust the BASE IDLE SPEED screw. I would suggest loosen the lock nut on that screw and turn to increase base idle speed 100 to 200 RPM higher(maybe 1/2 turn increase). Then see what happens. Get back to us with your findings. Jake
 

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One last thing that I crossed a few years ago...... when I first started with all my mods, I remember having an idle problem. Increasing the throttle plate stop screw fixed most of that problem. This hasn't been talked about on your post yet, but the IAC (idle air control) valve may be slow or not functioning which would cause a stall or too high idle speed. Again,recheck fuel pressure and volume. Jake
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I have a guy looking at my tune later this week to see if anything jumps out at him. I have pulled the vac line of the fuel regulator and haven't seen any fuel in the line so far. I can command the iac lower with a soluis amd when the counts get to about 25 the car struggles to stay running with that being said I would think that would strongly rule out a possible vacuum leak. And the commanded idle speed in the tune is set for 850 -900 rpm. I will keep plucking away am keep posted.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Update. Can't seam to get any of the tuners I know to call me back. I me back seriously considering getting edit live and learning to do this stuff myself. Have yet to do the fuel volume test but the more research I am doing about my setup the more pissed I am getting reading people are going quicker with less
 

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Gathering my thoughts here on this car. These thoughts are in no random order.


I have no clue why your car only makes the power it does. It should make more power. However it does not.

From a tuning stand point the car is going to make power based on two things.

Air/Fuel ratio and timing. You can only lean a car out so much and add so much ignition timing before you either get excessive amounts of detonation or it burns itself to ****ing ground.

The 3800 world lives and dies by knock retard. It is like the holy grail of engine sensors. Everything revolves around the knock sensor. Thankfully it does not with other engine platforms. You can try killing the knock sensor and slowly sneak up on the timing which is going to require you to pull a couple plugs after every WOT pass to make sure it is not peppered up from spark knock and to check where the timing mark up is in the ground strap of the plug. That is a lot of fun pulling plugs on a hot ass engine every pass.

If timing and air fuel ratio is optimized. That leaves only a few other things left.

The health of the engine, intake air temp post blower, the amount of air the motor is moving.

Want to know why A corvette ZR1, CTSV, and Camaro ZL1 make good power with a little boost. It is because the IAT temps of these cars generally only run 20 to 30 degrees over ambient temperature when not over spinning the blower. Not 100 plus degrees over ambient temperature.

ASSUMING your motor is sound including compression, parasitic loss, cam timing, valve train geometery, etc, etc, etc. Your only thing left to is increase air flow through the engine for more power.

Who knows. Maybe the blower is worn out or hurt. Boost is not a measurement of air flow. It is a measurement of restriction.

Find a blower to borrow from a car that is known to make a said amount of power and see if that changes anything.

Feeling frisky? Toss this 90's blower technology in the trash and do TVS blower or better yet go turbocharged.

Tuning is not problem with your car. Intake air temp is for sure a known problem here. Again providing the long block is sound which none of us really know for sure at this point. You need to figure a way to get more air to the engine while decreasing IAT temps. Going from a 3.2 to 3.0 pulley is only going to make IAT WORSE and be counter productive on what you are trying to do.

There are no IAC adjustments or base idle air flow targets in the 3800 ecm with HP Tuners. Want more air at idle to compensate for more blower drag with a smaller pulley? Command a higher rpm to idle or cheat by making changes to the blade.

I have zero missed calls from you. I only have two text message asking me when I am ready for a easy tuning session to get a hold of you and putting a 3.0 pulley on the car and dynoing this friday.

1. To your credit I did not respond to your text messages.

2.For starters I was not ready and still not ready for an easy tuning session on 07/27/18.

3. My post on facebook was for next week and not this week so that rules out this Friday the 10th.

My work load is insane. I do the best I can. I work my ass off Monday through Saturday when I should be taking a second day off. I work 6 days a week because in my mind working that 6 day keeps the wait time just a little shorter.

If people brought me cars ready for a dyno tune and knock a pile of problems I could could spend more time tuning which would shorten the wait time instead of fixing problems that people know damn well should have been fixed before coming to the dyno.

Want your idle raised for the 3.0 pulley? We will raise it? Want to run the 3.0 pulley? Run it and watch the IAT temp go over 200 degrees instead of being just over 100 degrees. Remember the cooler the air the more oxygen it has the more power.

If you want to learn it yourself I suggest an older HP Tuners interface. Not the new one. Stay away from a copy of DHP. The scanner sucks dick.

Want a free scan? You got one. Heck you bring the car to my house tomorrow if you want. It is going to show us high IAT temps and less than desirable timing based on IAT.

Your car should go over 300 wheel hp. Been there and done that many times with parts similar to yours. For whatever reason yours does not. Going to a 3.0 pulley and spending money on dyno time and more tuning is not the answer. You need to be looking elsewhere on the car.

Time for me to go spend another 12 hours figuring out peoples problems with their cars.

Should you decide to come out Sunday I will give you my address for a free no cost to you scan..
 

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The comments about going from E85 to pump gas have me laughing.
 

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Getting back about the E85 vs pump premium(93 octane).... I agree that one can go further and probably faster with E85 and lots of timing as well as intercooler and cold air intake. However, E85 may not be as available as pump gas in many areas. Here in Minneapolis/Saint Paul area, it's not at every corner gas station. Which is too bad for some of us. So, until or if this situation of easy to find E85 gets better, our choices are pump premium(and there are a few places selling race gas but it's expensive for daily street drivers).

One other thing to consider about fuel, in the spring/late winter, pump gas does have different additives which are not hot rod engine friendly. I spoke to a BP technical advisor about their fuel and what I was using it for. He suggested that all fuels in COLD STATE AREAS have additives added during the cold months. He also stated in could take a month or longer for this type of gas to be depleted before the non-additive premium is supplied. So I have been a little careful with fuel in the spring for my hot rod. Jake

PS....if you get tired of waiting for spring/summer to arrive in cold states, one can always use BRIAN'S idea of going to a local paint supply company and buying a gallon or two of TOLULENE. I did try this a few years ago and it does work but it gets expansive after a while..... If I remember it has an octane rating around 110/115........

Jake
 

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Wow, he must be missing a cold air intake, an INTERCOOLER, and maybe high speed cooling fans. For me, I don't run a thermostat which generally keeps everything in the engine cooler. Heat hurts a lot of the performance as you well know. Not to mention excessively fast fuel atomization.

When I first fire up my car, I do let it reach operating temps. For me that's approx 150/160 degrees. I'm still thinking I'm leaving some power from 18 degrees of timing.

There are a few different mind-sets on operating temps for performance. Being an old school DRAG RACER, cooler lets you push more timing(maybe not the best for a street hot rod that can run pretty hot). I have full support of your tuning on these 3800s. Looking at this issue from what you do when tuning, your suggestion is right on. From a racers standpoint, push the timing till KR shows up. At the tracks, we pull a few spark plugs to see how the electrodes look (rich..lean..detonation.. etc).

I should also mention I am pretty careful with engine temps. HEAT can kill pretty quickly depending on all the conditions.

One last thing about the tune you did for my 03 GTP.... The car never ran as good as it does now. Very good perf and street drivability! Still thinking about pushing the timing up 2-4 degrees for a little more.... can you tell I'm and old school drag racer.......... Jake

On another note, what did you do for TRACTION back when you were running a GP at the 1/4 mile tracks??? My car is mostly a street hot rod. Can't run drag slicks on the street so I get way too much tire spin. I've tried Nittos and currently running FLAKINS(decent tire but still go up in smoke). I think in reality, there's no real good fix for a FWD street hot rod. I should have never sold my 69 Z28(434 SMALL BLOCK with LOTS of HP/TORQUE).

I wish your shop was closer to Minneapolis/Saint Paul MN......
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Update. Dyno brian Is a stand up guy I thank you again for your time.

Problems may be the result of a bearing in the bottom end letting go. Stay tuned. ?‍♂
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Yeah no doubt I hate it when I am following a older thread and it looks like things are a match for my problems and then.......... nothing. Lol.
But yeah I will post picks and keep the thread going to the end results.
My ride is a 01 Monte Carlo with a l67 swap with the n/a trans for the higher ratio I believe the rest of my specs are at the beginning of my post.
 

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Pretty sure Alcohol is a cheaper and more rewarding hobby than cars .
 
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