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That rotor coating comes off for everyone, and you usually don't notice until you pull the blower for some work. It will still make boost since the mating surfaces are the edge wipers against the outer case. The inner part is meant to have the rotors retain as much pressure in the LIM as possible. Many cars still perform normally looking like yours, and the Thunderbird SuperCoupes came with M90's without coating. Swapping in the L67 rotor packs were said to be a 1-2psi benefit, is all.

If it really gets to you, though, try contacting this shop: http://www.thehighspeedlab.com/eaton-rotor-coating.html
They've been doing re-coating of rotors for a long time.
EDIT - http://embreemachine.com/ (their newer shop link with more stuff... looks like $199)

You'll want needle bearing grease, if you're set on re-applying it ($19 in ZZP's supercharger listings, or probably similar elsewhere). That lithium grease isn't the right stuff for parts spinning at thousands of RPM, more for exposed moving parts elsewhere in the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
OK, gonna scrape it off and see where i'm at. however a 1-2 PSI loss is quite substantial when you're only doin 6-8 PSI max... Well It will have to do for now until I can grab another one. I will leave the bearing grease for now. There's enough residual grease around them now. Goin in...
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Ok, So here's where I'm at now. Got a few final things to do to finish buttoning it up. I cleaned and tested the fuel injectors and picked the 6 with the best spray and also made sure that they flowed relatively the same rate too. My little contraption actually works pretty good. Pturned out well. I will take a pic and explain it in another thread. I showed it to a girlfriend of mine and she thought I was dome kinds mad scientist/inventor/genius for just cobbling that together. I said it was easy to make and anyone could make it. Does up to 4 at one time. Which is handy for comparing flow rate and spray patterns between the bunch.

As a side note... you also need the alternator and hode fittings from the other car when you switch brackets to the newer alternator bracket. It also makes it really tight beside what I believe to be the ABS box in the back passenger side at the firewall and the wheel well. The one hose outlet is presses up against it there possibly because the GP engine bay layout is different from the GS's bay. And the Alternator mounts are different, so I grabbed the other alt and the hose fittings at the back where the secure fasteners mount is in a different spot and angle so those were needed too. I'm not too sure about the Alternator brace tube thingy... I only found one. I believe it is in the right spot. Gonna check around on here for comparison now.

And that's where I'm at now. Need to do the plugs, throttle and belts along with a few other odds to complete it. Should be done tonight unless sumpin bad happens lol. I'm gonna download and print up a few close up reference pics from wherever and make sure mine is done right and where it should be. I will video the first crankover and see if she runs... lol
 

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Post some pics as you're going along, and we can discuss things as you make progress.

The bracket on top of the 99+ alternator is useless, FYI.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Oh good. I'm glad you said that. Good to know. I thought the same thing. Was gonna ask about that. Bracket delete...

OK, gonna take a few pics and will post back in a bit before I get started. Hope to be finished by the end of this session.
 
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