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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
:confused:
I just picked up my crank and the rest of the parts he needed to balance my crankshaft 50% and I could'nt wait to get home and install.

I'm at the point where I need the factory torque sequence. I dont need the factory torque specks as I have installed ARP main studs and they have their own. (70 ft lbs with moly lube and 85 ft lbs with good quality 30wt motor oil) My "wonderful" Chilton book doesnt say anything about a sequence.

Can some body real quick dray me a crappy little picture? Doesnt have to be pretty at this point. But this would be a good thing for the forum to have.

~Farnsworth~
 

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In the service manual this is all I found on it:

Install the crankshaft main bearing cap bolts. Start the crankshaft main bearing cap bolts by hand. Ensure the bottom of the crankshaft main bearing cap is parallel to the bottom of the channel. Tighten
Tighten the crankshaft main bearing cap bolts in equal increments. Do not completely tighten one bolt at a time to prevent the cap from being cocked.
Tighten the bolts to 70 N·m (52 lb ft) to fully seat the crankshaft main bearing caps. Loosen the bolts 360 degrees counterclockwise.
Tighten the bolts to 20 N·m (15 lb ft), then 40 N·m (30 lb ft).
Use J 36660-A to tighten the bolts in steps: 35 degrees + 35 degrees + 40 degrees for a total of 110 degrees.
Install the side main bolts. Apply GM P/N 12345493 or equivalent to the side main bolts. Tighten
Tighten the side crankshaft main bearing cap bolts to 15 N·m (11 lb ft). Use J 36660-A to tighten the bolts an additional 45 degrees.

Hope that helps some
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Found it in a 1998 Service maniual -states the same thing, pluss a Professional called me back and basically just reassured my find, Thanks Jeff!


ARP bolts to the GM 3800 Block:

Tighten all the bolts evenly (side to side little by little) first to 35 ft lbs. then finish the torque to 70 ft lbs. 70 ft lbs is what the new ARP gets torqued at NOT the stock bolts. For staock bolts...read what John F wrote.

The side bolts, for the first 3 caps get 11 ft lbs pluss an additional 45* and be sure to apply some sort of sealer (gasket maker) on the bottom of the bolt head flange where it mates up with the block. -Prevents oil from seeping/leaking out.

I did all that, first time and Jeff informed me about the sealer on the back side of the bolts before I had a chance to install them. Good timming.

Well, there we go, stock specks and after market spacks.

Thanks everyone for writing in, help is what makes the club go around. :D

~Farnsworth~
 

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I understood most of this topic. But could someone explain these two bits for me ?





Use J 36660-A to tighten the bolts in steps: 35 degrees + 35 degrees + 40 degrees for a total of 110 degrees.
Use J 36660-A to tighten the bolts an additional 45 degrees
.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
That "J-36660" that is reffered to is a tool.

Is basically a dial with a needle that when set at 0 (zero) after the first torque has been met, this will allow you to get the corrrect degree when the bolt or studded nut is turned.

This is the best way to do it. I have seen people install rockers and other parts and sorta guess what degree they are at after they have torqued the bolt. Not good.

Hope that answers your question.

~Farnsworth~
 

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GR8racingfool said:
The side bolts, for the first 3 caps get 11 ft lbs pluss an additional 45* and be sure to apply some sort of sealer (gasket maker) on the bottom of the bolt head flange where it mates up with the block. -Prevents oil from seeping/leaking out.
I would highly recommend NEW side bolts. They are rather cheap for GM bolts ;) And have the sealer already on the bolt head itself.
 

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GR8racingfool said:
DasRegalGS - You got a Part number for those bolts? good advice, I may look into that.

~Farnsworth~
Let me find my bill.. I have it around here somewhere.
 
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