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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Over the last month I have been looking into a ton of various upgrades to go along with the L32 (Series 3 SC) engine I intend to buy with my car. I am planning to go the extreme and add a whipple SC, smaller pulley/more boost, enhanced cams, machined heads, performance throttle body, cold air intake w/box, full xhaust system, and more.

Now, with all of these upgrades I expect my engine temperature to be pushing the limit here in the hot state of Florida. So, one thing I am concerned about while adding these performance upgrades is adding a bunch of cooling modifications to go along with them.

I am looking for some input on the following modifications, like what are the best ones in the market, as well as any additional cooling modification suggestions that someone may have.

-Intercooler
-Cold Air Intake w/box
-Oversized Aluminum Radiator
-Enhanced Water Pump
-Transmission Cooler
-160* T-Stat
-Throttle Body Spacer
-Full Exhaust System (Headers, DP, Cat-Back)
-Exhaust Shield
-Aluminum Exhaust Wraps
-Fan Computer Upgrade

any input? suggestions? product recommendations?

Thanks :)
 

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For IC on a whipple blower you'd more than likley have to go custom.

Coldair air intake, the wizaired is for sure the best kit on the market but there are also do it yourself options alot of people like.

Personally I like the oversized radiator but I doubt it would be necisary for you. (I have a friend running one now) and for some reason his car has never maintained temps like it should.

There is really only one other option for the advanced water pump and thats the electric one. It hink it's great for track use but it doesn't seem to keep temps down where the stockers does (reason why friends is running larger radiator)

Trans coolers aren't recomended normally however I have a high stall converter in my can and it was recomended I run one with that. (oversides rad has one in it)

160 tstat is fine you may wanna run a 180 in the cooler weather sometimes the heat won't get warm.

I don't like the tb spacer out right ow alot of people seems to have issues with them. Some people love them. It hink a crossover heat sheild will help you as much.

For headers I personally like togs (run them myslef) alot of people have trouble with slp's coatings (supposedly it's fixed but who knows) also thier service sucks. I called John at tog because I lost a bolt and he overnighted me 5 of them. Better warranty as well. Also you dont't need a dp for them they weld to the cat's neck.

For the rest of the exhuast I love my magnaflows. just get a custom setup chaeper and generall better.

No wraps on headers don't need them with ceramic coatings that are available and they void your warranty

You'll have to have a pcm to support a cam and such the fan code is included in them.

I would call intense and talk with them. they can help you get your where you want it to be and they will even recomend another manufactueres product if it sutes your needs better than thier own. As far as the l32 I wouldn't buy a new one. I would just get an l67 and build the bottom end. Your gonna have headwork done anyway and your not using a stock blower so the only thing of any value from an l32 is the rods and you can get an l67 block and build it with the rods way cheaper. Of course unless you speaking about an 04 which already has one :D

I would spend more money on a tranny than the motor first. Stock tranny's are not built for much more than stock power. The very first think you should buy is a scan tool so you can troubleshoot and tune your car. You should never mod without one period! And if your gonna take you care to the limit I would recomend buying a scanner that can program as well such as hp tuners or power tuners. If you search around here and clubgp you'll find lots and lots of free info.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
When I do this its gonna be an 'all-at-once' project. I plan on buying a completely rebuild Intense transmission to handle all the extra power, so a transmission cooler is something I think I will definately be getting. The new Transmission is a pretty big investment and I dont wanna risk anything.

The L32 actually has quite a bit of upgrades, and one of the best is indeed the pushrods, but my main concern is the improved sealing. You can find a complete upgrade list on clubgp @ http://www.clubgp.com/newforum/fb.asp?m=859376

I have heard good things about the oversized radiator, and since my intercooler and transmission cooler will be gobbling up airflow as well, I think this is something I should need, especially with the level of modding I am looking to do.

Does aluminum wraps really void your TOG warranty? what for? They do nothing but block radiating heat. I dont even think the header wraps (custom made) would even touch.

As far as a water pump goes, I have some big questions here. I too have heard that during normal driving that the water pump indeed does not perform as well. Something with the revolutions of the eletric pump not being up to par as a mid/high-rpm belt based pump. It does however run better when the car is idle, in traffic, or at the track (it runs while car is off).

So, my question for the water pump is are there any non-eletrical upgrades? If not, is there anything better then the Mez' pump? If not, is there any way to increase the performance of the stock rotors/vanes? Maybe switching out rotors/vanes with the eletrical pump?


Thanks for the help :)
 

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First off you wrong about the pushrods. the connectiong rods are upgraded other than that there is nothing worth upgrading other than the blower and you said you didn't want that anyway.
There is nothing else on the motor to benifit you. the all aluminum mani only applied to the NA motors. The return fuel system isn't neccisary or an upgrade because you'll need the bigger injectors which need the return line anyway.

The sealing is a crock because all you have to do is by the new gaskets. The block is the same and so most of the other parts. You'll have no need for anything other than new valve cover gaskets and an oilpan gasket. you can get thoose for 50 bucks so again why an l32 you could build and l67 with the best parts of the l32 for half the price.

As for the waterpump being better at idle I still think it may pump better but it may be pushing water through radiator so fast it's not cooling it with the limited airflow at idle. I would spend the cash elswhere. I am telling you what I know from personal experience. I think the electric pump run's well on a track car but for a daily driver I wouldn't do it.
In the next couple of months my car will have a fully built raceblock in it with an s3 cam and heads. I plan on running a mostly stock cooling system. Many have and are fine. I would run a stocker and she what it does I'll bet you'll be fine there are plenty of cars in the cali heat and coupl e in the south that s3 setups with stock pumps.

The wraps hold mosture close to the headers. TOG specifically states that you will void them with any aftermarket wrap as does slp and all the major manufaturers of headers. I run a tb heat shield and other than that there isn't alot of itmes to pick up radiant heat in the engine bay.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
well the L32 engine is about $60 more then the L67 engine brand new, and I intend to buy brand new (all the parts I replace I will put into my current L36 engine). It will be nice to have a slew of L32 engine parts in my L36 engine to go along with that Gen 5 M90 SC. I will have to buy an extra set up L32 connecting rods to make the L36 run properly, but most everything else will be upgraded from anything I replace in the L32, and be brand new rather then have 96,000 miles on it. It works out pretty well for me in the end :) I am still tossing around whether I could run a modified L36 in my 94 Galant though. Would be nice if I could (ton of unf)

As far as the rotots/vanes. Can those be replaced on a water pump? The eletrical ones are better parts. I would also like to see if I could replace anything else with some upgraded part to make the stock waterpump more effecient. I am hoping someone knows what can be done here so I dont have to read up on the world of water pumps and the L32 pumps complete workings.

Anyways, thanks for the informations so far. Its good to hear fomr someone who knows.
 

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I think you would be crazy for buying a new motor you could build one with forged internals easily and cheaper and in the end you would have a better motor to boot. Your gonna replace half the motor anyway it upgrades. If you plan on running high boost forged internals (at least pistons) are a must.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Like I said... the benefits of buying a new L32 engine and replacing all the parts is that I will be able to place all new L32 parts in my old 96,000 mile L36 engine, including the Gen 5 M90 blower I would be replacing.

One thing I am actually considering now is selling my L36 motor with L32 upgrades to the shop I have do the work (INTENSE, ZZP, whoever), as well as allow them to run multiple tests on both engines to alow them to get better statustics and data for their business. I figure this will take a nice little chunk out of all my costs :)
 

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I serioisly doubt they will wanna buy your stuff. Most of those places keep tons of spare parts around. Blocks are cheap from guy's like ed. Good luck on it.
 

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i agree buying a scantool is a must.

from your post i see your looking at an intercooler, to my knowledge all of the intercoolers on the market block off the the coolant passages gouing into the throttle body, imho you would not need the throttle body spacer as the coolant passages are now blocked by the ic.

paul
 

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Cooling

Hi,

My input on your cooling system, Flordia is humid, sticky heat...no way around it.

The best thing you can do is increase the surface area of your cooling surface, like getting a bigger radiator. I'm not bashing ZZP, but, I wouldn't get their unit if you want an easy and hassle free install...

Lower the engine temp....ALOT of people who work with standalone and tuning EFI systems have said to slightly lower, but not freeze an engine. I would get a 180 stat, and have your PCM coded to turn both fans on at 180. I run a 160 here in ohio and during the summer my car liked staying in the 170ish range without the fans. I'll probably be going back to 180 to see if I can help get more MPG out of the car...

Intercooling....DEFINTELY. You'll notice the car carrys power throughout the powerband and is way more consistant, even when hot lapped. Your best bet may be to run something thats always cold.....like..Nitrous :) .

As far as using wraps, they are OK, but coatings will be your best bet.

HTH,
Nathan
 
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