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Do you remember the 1500+ degrees of combustion temps heating up everything in site? So how is the oil gonna stay too cold unless it's from a "cool engine" start in which case warm-up time is needed. I would recomend you hot engine temp guys go to a bigger drag strip and see what the pro-catagories guys do when they run. Other than making sure engine oil is warm, they will run the rest cooler.

I promise this is my last comment on this subject.

PS, I challenge you to do the no stat engine oil change and put your hands in the draining oil and then hear your conclusions about internal engine temps and thermostats...........
 

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I challenge you to run oil like most people do for 4 to 5 thousand miles. And alot of those cars are alcohol and nitro burn 3 to 8 times the fuel of a gasoline engine. Therfore much more cooling is needed.
 

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I'd like to point something out once more.

And, don't you agree that these kind of temps will more than keep the oil plenty hot enough to do a good job? If there are any doubters out there, run you engine at 160/170 and drain the oil. Oh, and while your at it, pit your hand in that draining oil and tell me it's not warm enough to fo the job.
Again, it does not work that way. At 160, oil is not going to be hot enough for optimal engine wear unless a person does a full WOT run at the track (which then is a whole different story). A finger test is not good enough. Oil pooling temps are ONLY about 30-40* higher that coolant temps on cars like ours.

Have a gander. This clearly shows how engine wear is affected by different operating temps. A 180* is perfect and is as low a person should go.

 

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Thank God for man-made synthetics!!
 

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Remember the LT1? GM did the reverse cooling, which was based on what Pontiac did back in 1955. The cooling came off the radiator to the heads, cooling them, and then to the block, allowing warm head water to be heated in the block, so the block ran WARMER and the heads cooler.

It was the perfect design. Look at the super long life of the LT1.... Many in taxi and police service commonly went 500k to 1M miles on stock short blocks.
 

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I agree about synthetic oils good for better lubrication at temps out of what is considered "best". That's why I run Motorcraft super duty diesel oil. Diesels tend to run on the cold side and they somehow seem to get extremely high life even with colder temps. Go figurer, must be the oils as you say.
 

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I agree about synthetic oils good for better lubrication at temps out of what is considered "best". That's why I run Motorcraft super duty diesel oil. Diesels tend to run on the cold side and they somehow seem to get extremely high life even with colder temps. Go figurer, must be the oils as you say.
transmission I know not topic but shifts only is my problem similar to y9uersself was contemplating a transmission cooler kit , the only time my automatic shift s hard when it is cold?
 

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A) is that English?
B) 11yr old post, be careful when the forum suggests conversations to join... I'd typically use the NEW button, unless you're searching
C) that's Jake's old login; you can enjoy a newly refined version of his soapbox works with random brand name-dropping under the goodwrench monicker now
 

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A) is that English?
B) 11yr old post, be careful when the forum suggests conversations to join... I'd typically use the NEW button, unless you're searching
C) that's Jake's old login; you can enjoy a newly refined version of his soapbox works with random brand name-dropping under the goodwrench monicker now
remove th post if its that old 11years sorry I didn't:mad: see the date.....
 

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Old messages are fine, and good for reference/trend identification. However, there are plenty of current conversations on all of these common topics that help active members more with interactions.

Just take the time to note when a discussion occurred, as there's no rush to make a post or reply here that's so time-sensitive that seconds matter. If you have a discussion on your vehicle already going, it's always best to keep that thread as the single point of reference for your feedback.

There's no need to delete or scrub past information, as it can serve as an example of similar issues and conversations had on recurring topics. This is why forums remain the best format for automotive communities, rather than social media feeds that are meant to have constant turnover of immediate interactions with no longevity.
 

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Old messages are fine, and good for reference/trend identification. However, there are plenty of current conversations on all of these common topics that help active members more with interactions.

Just take the time to note when a discussion occurred, as there's no rush to make a post or reply here that's so time-sensitive that seconds matter. If you have a discussion on your vehicle already going, it's always best to keep that thread as the single point of reference for your feedback.

There's no need to delete or scrub past information, as it can serve as an example of similar issues and conversations had on recurring topics. This is why forums remain the best format for automotive communities, rather than social media feeds that are meant to have constant turnover of immediate interactions with no longevity.
ok thank YOU :poop:
 
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