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Discussion Starter #21
A) Not sure how you keep posting tables in your replies... I tried cleaning up the old ones, but I'd rather you figure that out as you go along.

B) The heads are identical between the regular 3800 and the supercharged ones (just added injector holes for s/c). It's just the rotating assembly, mainly rods/pistons, that change the compression ratio.

C) For a "cheap" way to squeeze more from a supercharged build, many people run the non-supercharged 9.4:1 (L36, L26) bottom end with supercharged heads and intake. I ran this for years in my GTP and was able to optimize it, with time and tuning, to be competitive with friends spending thousands more on upgrades. Zoomer (owner of ZZP) actually convinced me to try it back in ~2006, and he's even been building up his personal GTP with an even higher compression setup for this season.

D) for a cam, I'd go for the X-P (ZZP) or S1x (Intense) as the largest ones that can be ran on stock heads, with modified valve spring retainers. Aside from springs/retainers/timing chain, you can leave the rest of the valvetrain stock, although you'll have to replace some bolts and gaskets while in there (and I'd freshen some things like the chain tensioner, valve seals, etc. that are exposed during the work). This is about a $1k or so venture, all said and done, since you'll need a few specialty tools, too (balancer puller with specific threaded bolts, valve spring remover).

Check out my 2020 Part 1 video, and any other cam swap videos on YouTube that give you an idea of what everything involves. Guys have documented this task a hundred times over, so you're not going in blind. Heck, even in '04-'05 I was able to learn during my first install with a step-by-step illustrated write-up before videos were more common. Roam the vendor websites, read up, and get to where you feel like you've already seen it done 10-15x before you even loosen a bolt in this specific engine. A. It's got to do something with my phone. If engine's 86-87 versus 3800's are similar I'm not sure I'd put a 66 or 67 on a mainly driven street terror, I did not like how laggy my 60-1turbo was and sold it. I do have to replace the cylinder heads right?
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Was it an enjoyable turbo on the street, I never want to get a turbo with too much lag unless it was used only for racing. I'd like to have a fun street terror. Meaning your regal that you ran mid 11's with?
 

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It was a blast on the street, and I honestly have more fun with the cut-out button and that sound than anything else (video link from original owner while I was tuning at the track years ago). I'm just finishing a bigger setup as a 2020* shutdown project to finally build it more how I wanted in the first 10-15yrs with 3800's, but couldn't yet (parts, experience, and funds-wise).

A moderate-sized turbo for these, like the Z3, Z7, and Cartuning basic kit are all capable of making these things run 11's with minimal to no engine work beyond some valvetrain and fueling (then, you're just hoping the drivetrain holds together). It takes some careful adjusting of the tune as the car demands before hurting the engine, and optimizing the use of every part as you add it.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
It was a blast on the street, and I honestly have more fun with the cut-out button and that sound than anything else (video link from original owner while I was tuning at the track years ago). I'm just finishing a bigger setup as a 2020* shutdown project to finally build it more how I wanted in the first 10-15yrs with 3800's, but couldn't yet (parts, experience, and funds-wise).

A moderate-sized turbo for these, like the Z3, Z7, and Cartuning basic kit are all capable of making these things run 11's with minimal to no engine work beyond some valvetrain and fueling (then, you're just hoping the drivetrain holds together). It takes some careful adjusting of the tune as the car demands before hurting the engine, and optimizing the use of every part as you add it.
Don't I have to change my L36 cylinder heads because of the 9:4 compression? I'd be happy to get just into the high 11's on stock motor.
 

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Don't I have to change my L36 cylinder heads because of the 9:4 compression? I'd be happy to get just into the high 11's on stock motor.
Nope. Pretty sure I mentioned this in one of the 2-3 top conversations here in the past week, but the compression difference is via bottom end changes (pistons/rods/etc.). Boost can be applied to either setup just fine from either method, and get you as much as you want from the car.

The heads are identical, aside from injector ports drilled into s/c heads, because their lower intake doesn't have as much space with the way the s/c mounts.

Getting one of these cars to 11's is very possible, but not a guarantee with any setup until it's really dialed in and launching is figured out without the transmission letting go before you get there.

Before you get too far ahead of yourself, I'd dip a toe in some mods, and get some experience tuning it, because you're not going to want to pay for that crucial recurring need everytime you tweak a part, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Nope. Pretty sure I mentioned this in one of the 2-3 top conversations here in the past week, but the compression difference is via bottom end changes (pistons/rods/etc.). Boost can be applied to either setup just fine from either method, and get you as much as you want from the car.

The heads are identical, aside from injector ports drilled into s/c heads, because their lower intake doesn't have as much space with the way the s/c mounts.

Getting one of these cars to 11's is very possible, but not a guarantee with any setup until it's really dialed in and launching is figured out without the transmission letting go before you get there.

Before you get too far ahead of yourself, I'd dip a toe in some mods, and get some experience tuning it, because you're not going to want to pay for that crucial recurring need everytime you tweak a part, etc.
For me I should probably keep the motor stock to save a bit and just look at the other mods. I do remember having 009's injectors for my turbo Buick Regal and it always seemed to run rich. One thing about my 2003 Buick custom LeSabre is it appears to me a little smaller than my 87 Regal. I know the trans will need upgrading with the extra power.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
For me I should probably keep the motor stock to save a bit and just look at the other mods. I do remember having 009's injectors for my turbo Buick Regal and it always seemed to run rich. One thing about my 2003 Buick custom LeSabre is it appears to me a little smaller than my 87 Regal. I know the trans will need upgrading with the extra power.
I have that terrible black canvas roof and a luggage rack that I'd like to get off the car first.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
The parts/work/costs/upkeep/knowledge/results for each path are significantly different. ZZP recently had a guy discuss this exact topic, and he covered most things that are considerations before getting into either path.

Determine your goal end result that seems reasonable, factoring in transmission risks and tuning ability, and reply with any more-specific inquiries. I've helped with, owned, raced, and maintained both, and still plan to have one of each for different uses.

Ok I have decided to keep the engine stock, I know turbo choice is important as one picks a particular turbo according to what their goal is. For me on the street a 66 turbo is not gonna spool fast enough to be enjoyable compared to a smaller turbo. If I ever take it to the track it may be only once or twice. Now that I know for sure I'm keeping my 3800 L36 bone stock I'm looking for mods to put on my list. I ran a search but am not coming up with much. Have guys used a PTE-44 turbo on these 3800 engine's because a search came up with no information about it? Also reading that a PT61 spools pretty nice for a mainly street car. A 66 or 67 would be my pick if I really cared about quarter mile slips.
 
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