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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The haynes says to use a ring installer to pull off the rings. But I have no clue what they were smoking. I was able to get every ring off every piston except 1 ring on the last piston. The ring gaps are so close together and tight you can barely even see it! I'm gonna try to get a razor blade in there if I can. Dont know what else to do.

I saw that the Haynes says that if your piston ring gaps touch each other (or close to touching) that major damage could happen. Well, on this last one that I cant get off, the ring is stuck together so tight. I dunno how to get it off or what major damage could occur.
 

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is it the top compression ring? if it is then you may have a pinched ring land and it's clamping the ring in there
 

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If the top ring on any piston is stuck, it's bad. Maybe just stuck from carbon, but more likely stuck from the top of the piston from getting smacked.
 

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I don't know what to tell you. Could be detonation damage. This is assuming of course that the ring is actually stuck in the land.
 

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Time for some forged pistons and Total Seal gapless rings, then you will see 200PSI compression ;) That's no joke :8
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I dont know if I need forged pistons, but 200 psi sounds like fun!
I just want this engine to be reliable to drive me to work so I can save for my LS1(which I want to race the hell out of, and build it up)
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I FINALLY got the last compression ring off! the gap was COMPLETELY stuck together and somehow I managed to get a razor blade in there, even though I scratched the hell out of the piston head. (next to the ring lands, but not in the ring lands)
Hopefully I will have enough gap between the ring and the piston ring land. I mean enough gap on top and bottom of the ring itself.
thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
the smallest "bit" on my piston ring cleaner tool wont fit into any ring besides the oil ring (the lowest ring).
the oil ring is the biggest ring.
I guess I will just use one of the broken old rings to clean it.
Then use acetone and blow dry with compressed air.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I need the ring gap sizes. anyone? For a 2002 3.8L 3800 v6 camaro.
I was told that chrome moly would be too harsh on our
"lesser quality iron" blocks. I never knew my iron block was "lesser quality"
thanks
 

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ezrollin said:
I need the ring gap sizes. anyone? For a 2002 3.8L 3800 v6 camaro.
I was told that chrome moly would be too harsh on our
"lesser quality iron" blocks. I never knew my iron block was "lesser quality"
thanks
I use total seal chrome moly gapless in mine. I probably still have the specs at home for the gap, but just too make sure, call total seal. And yours will be different than mine since youre NA. Search the web, the phone # is listed on their site.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
what does N/A have to do with it? Did you get pistons too? or FI?
"there is no such thing as chrome moly piston rings" you can either have "chrome" faced or moly faced or something like that...
I wonder if steel or Iron Is better?????????
 

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ezrollin said:
what does N/A have to do with it? Did you get pistons too? or FI?
"there is no such thing as chrome moly piston rings" you can either have "chrome" faced or moly faced or something like that...
I wonder if steel or Iron Is better?????????
Wow, Jon, you might wanna check that whole chrome moly thing. Anyway, NA versus forced induction : if you use the wrong gap, you'll know it pretty soon after the rebuild. Yes, I got pistons also. Like I said, you'd be better off calling TS or even checking the Intense site for gap specs in the forged pistons section.
And steel is by far better.
 
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